Bonnet mouth specs 1.5 roadster

The air duct lower panel was not yet installed. When we went to install, many questions arose.

I have been advised the black panel should be painted the body color.

But in looking inside of the bonnet mouth, I’m concerned other issues are presenting.

Are these P hangers correct and is the wiring ran appropriately?

Pictures and a (very poor quality) video below for reference.

https://youtu.be/gsYD4KPFYe0

I believe that the holes used for the wiring “P” clamps in your photo are the holes that are used to attach the back edge of the flat panel to the bonnet. My car doesn’t have the “P” clamps there for the wiring. Unfortunately there isn’t a harness routing guide in any of the Jaguar parts or shop manuals that I’ve found.

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Doug,

That’s what we are running into.

We try to research before posting most questions. Hubs also thinks he needs those to attach the flat panel as you stated. So then the next question is: what is the correct placement of the wiring?

Anyone have pictures of how theirs is?

I will try to take a video when I am out there today. Nicholas pointed out that the bolts were missing in the inside of the bonnet that hold the headlamp wiring brackets. So assuming they should be routed differently than our current set up. :neutral_face:

I’ll just throw this out there because it’s something I had bookmarked. Obviously thread title is for a 3.8 but it may be of some help.

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I do recall having P clamps there. You wouldn’t want that cross wire flopping around. If the clamps were flipped around so they hung down then there would be room for the panel to install over the top. I’m not sure how the fasteners here work though. I haven’t looked inside there in 15 years. I do recall that the holes on the rear flange of that panel need to go where those p clamps currently are.

Are there captive nuts on the panel flange? If so you may be able to reach inside from the front and shove the clamps up between the bonnet and the flange while hubby sticks screws through. If there is no captive nut. He could stick bolts through all three parts while you hold a nut up from the outside.

If you decide to paint that panel, I think you’d better do a trial fit first. It’s very possible it’s an aftermarket part he never got around to trying and it might need work.

Erica- The photos of the bonnet harness I took of my car during disassembly shows no p-clamps across the bonnet opening gap. I don’t think this was ever touched as evidenced by the condition of the harness and other parts. But who knows what P.O.s have done.

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I believe the wiring runs inside the cavity. Looks like your has been run outside?

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I am pretty sure mine has not been opened up nor modified, and mine runs inside the cavity.

The first picture shows, approximately, the path of the wiring under the panel. I can barely reach my hand through those access openings, and can feel the wires running down the side, and then under the panel.

The other 2 pictures show the screws which are supporting the wiring on the two sides.

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This is EXACTLY the picture that puts it all together!

Hubs says he understands now. :raised_hands: :clap:

Thank you!

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By the way, I tried to wipe off some of the dirt that in there, that panel is definitely body color, BRG in my case.

Candiece;
My car is a 70 2+2. The head light wires go from left to right laying on the ‘floor’ of the ‘chin piece’ (Front under panel assemble). The 'P’clips fasten the loom to the ‘Air duct assemble’ both right and left before it loops under the air duct assemble lower edge. The loom does not attach to the bonnet (chin piece).
4-111
This shows the ‘P’ clips on the right air dam as the loom comes from the left (the camera man
did not think anyone would want to see where it came from).
3-110
This is the left side as the loom goes from the junction bar to the right side with ‘P’ clips attaching the loom to the air dam.
Hopt this helps.

Regards, Joel…

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And apparently was standing on his head… :laughing:

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Well that was an interesting 5 hours. We also removed the stone guard to get the lower duct panel in for test fitting.

Spot on that the stone guard had to come out.

Also sadly spot on that we will need to do moderate amount of fiddling to get it to fit.

Thinking we will make a template out of poster board or something. Will also have to paint the panel.

And…

image

Pictures above and below show that we removed the p clamps and placed the ground and p clamps on the back side of the left and right. Small hands came in “handy”. Pun intended.

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This view is from putting the camera up and over the motif bar at the front of the mouth on my Feb 1968 FHC. I have a gap and brackets that I don’t see in the other photos posted here. With my bonnet closed my egg crate screen is right up next to the radiator.

David

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That’s really interesting, David. My car has the gap and brackets like yours does. From the pictures above it looks like Ed and Nicole’s S1.5 cars “match” without the gap or brackets.

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Are the bumpers fitted yet?

If not, that 5 hour comment will come back to bite you in your…nether parts.

:face_with_raised_eyebrow:

I owe my ex a debt of gratitude: had it not been been for her slender arms, small hands, and a basic understanding of wrenchin, I’d have NEVER gotten the heater pipes changed.

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Have not seen that set up yet. Interesting.

I am so thrown by all the things that can vary on this model. And all of ours are American versions with variations.

Paul,

Funny you should say that, they are “on” the car, but there is gapping and they honestly look like :poop:

So, yes, we will have to address that as well. We had hoped to be much father along, but in looking at things and finding so many errors, we have had to take many steps back to redo things.

I have a couple of comments:
The “gap and brackets” is the same as I have on my 63 S1 car.
The position of the stone shield is set by captive nuts (actually the gizmos for sheet metal speed screws) tack welded into the sides of the air duct assemblies. I don’t think there is any way to get the stone shield in the wrong position.
There is a difference in the stone shield for the S1 and S2 cars. I got sent a stone shield, by accident, for a S2 car. As I recall it was about an inch less in overall width. The upshot is that if there is a specific stone shield for the S2 and it is narrower, then it makes sense that it would fit farther forward in the car, as the air ducts do converge towards the front of the bonnet.

Pure conjecture but did they move the stone shield forward to make room for the more robust S2 radiator with 2 cooling fans, in response to cooling issues?