Boot opening system

While the most important issues have been solved now i am studying my xj40 as a good owner should do. Now i am concentrated of the boot opening which is simple as a fort knox safe.
If i turn the key of the boot completely counteclockwise then i am able to push the open button and open the boot. If instead i return to vertical position the button is locked and there is no way to open it (with the central lock or the pushbutton in the glovebox). If i turn the key complety clockwise then return vertical and remove the key, i can open the boot ONLY with the glovebox button. I cannot figure how to set it to simply open and close the boot in sincronous with the door lock… any advice?
By the way, also the boot light does not work

I’m not familiar with Jaguars but can you remove the key in the clockwise direction?

If you can, that is probably the CL mode selection, if not then the central locking unit isn’t sending power to the boot servo. Is it supposed to?

If it is supposed to and the rest of the central locking is functioning, you have a connection issue between the central locking module and the boot.

I can’t find a wiring diagram on this site to reference. If someone puts one up I will take a look and advise on how to test.

As I recall, XJ40 are not the same on this but I can’t recall any of the systems that unlock the trunk with the doors. Locking the trunk when the doors are locked is the norm on all as I recall.

so if the boot is open it locks with the central lock, but if it’s closed it stays close when i unlock the doors?

To quote the Daimler handbook (I think the Jaguar would be the same);
Luggage compartment
During normal operation the compartment is locked and unlocked in conjunction with the doors.
To open depress the lever situated below and to the right of the lock

CAUTION do not slam the compartment lid - press gently to close.

To unlock when the doors are locked, insert the key in the vertical position and turn 90 deg anticlockwise. Return the key to the vertical position to remove. The compartment will remain unlocked and must be either locked electrically by operating a front door lock or manually with the key.

Manual Only Operation;
To lock.
Insert the key in the. Vertical position, turn 90 deg clockwise and remove. With the lock in this position it cannot be operated electrically.

To unlock,
Insert the key in the horizontal position and turn 180 deg anti-clockwise. Return the key to the vertical position to remove. With the lock in this position it can be operated electrically.

Why is this important? First, it is not necessary to slam the lid, as it takes little force to latch it; second, it is unseemly to slam thd lid - it is a Jaguar (or Daimler), after all; and third, but perhaps most importantly, the light bulbs are mounted in the aft area of the lid and whilst they seem to be rather hardy the banging certainly can’t do them any good!

well the previous owner was a big banger. I have no boot lights and i can open the boot only with the key or with the glovebox button.
I cannot find where is located the switch for the internal lights so i cannot repair the system…

You might find the wiring has frayed, from memory it follows the right hand hinge, check to see if you have power there.

Andrea, the switch for the boot light is stated to be on/at the right boot lid hinge. BUT, you should be able to test the switch at the boot light fixture without actually laying eyes on the switch. Here’s a snippet from the wiring diagram:

Battery power comes into the light on a brown/white wire, so you should have ~12 volts there. On the other side of the fixture should be a purple/red wire that runs to one side of the switch. The switch is connected to ground. SO - with the lid open and no bulb in the fixture you should have no continuity to ground when measured at the purple/red wire. With the lid closed (but doesn’t have to be latched) you should have continuity to ground. [EDIT: I stated this backwards. With the lid open you SHOULD have continuity to ground. With the lid fully down/closed you should NOT have continuity. My apologies for the confusion. - M.S.]

Simple things first - are you certain the bulb is good?

Likewise the central locking actuator wires.

Yes, that is my recollection from my Jaguar shop and owning two of them. The electric lock will lock the doors and trunk but only unlock the doors.

This is from my previous post #9. I will try to explain (with pictures) what I stated in that post.

(1) Remove the boot light by pressing against either end to depress the spring clip and gently prise away from the trim panel. Here is the boot (trunk) light after popping it out of the trim panel:

Note that it is just held in by a metal spring clip at each end:

(2) Remove the festoon base bulb and check it with a multimeter set to ohms. If the bulb is good you should see a resistance reading:

(3) Now, connect the common (black) multimeter lead to a good ground. The bolt holding the boot latch loop will work:

(4) Disconnect the two connectors from the boot light fixture. Connect the red multimeter lead to the connector containing the brown/white wire and with the multimeter set to DC voltage you should see battery voltage:

(5) Now for testing the switch (the elusive one allegedly mounted at/on the right boot lid hinge). Connect the red multimeter lead to the other light connector, which should have a purple/red wire. With the multimeter set to ohms you should see some resistance, meaning the switch is good and the ground circuit is complete.

(6) Now, with leads still connected hold the multimeter outside the boot and carefully lower the lid to the down position. You should see the multimeter reading go to zero (or possibly O.L or similar, depending on the meter) as the switch opens and breaks the ground circuit.

Of course, if one of the leads has come loose you will see the same result, so gently raise the lid and as the switch closes you should see the same resistance reading as when you had the boot lid open (step 5), confirming the leads are still connected.

Hopefully this makes sense and explains why I stated you do not have to worry about finding the switch - unless, of course, it tests bad. Let’s hope that is not the case!

Hello Mike , i will check the circuit asap. I have already checked the lamp and is good, so next step is ti check the rest of the circuit as you explained. I am just wondering where is the switch, because i cannot find it. My 92 xj40 has the boot light located differently from yours but the circuit is the same for shure.

Andrea, inquiring minds want to know, so…

As previously stated, the switch is adjacent to (inboard of) the right side boot lid hinge ‘arm’:

Hi Mike,

Just an observation, but with the boot open and the switch closed (lamp illuminated), the resistance measured should be as close to zero Ohms as possible, you appear to have 54 ohms, which is high.

With the lid closed the reading should be OL (over-load, or over-range), which means greater than 20M Ohm…essentially, open circuit.

An incandescent test lamp is probably more useful for testing power circuits as it will test the ability to carry current, whereas a DMM has such high internal resistance that the circuit isn’t carrying any current.
A single strand of wire, or poor connection will appear Ok using a Dmm, or test lamp with LED bulb, but fail to pass enough current to illuminate the boot lamp.

Measuring voltage at various points of the circuit while in use will give a good indication of where any resistance is.
There will be +12v feeding the lamp and should be zero Volts on the Gnd side, measured Wrt a good Gnd (as you have done).

Good observation, thanks for that reminder. The “fail to pass enough current” comment resonated with me, as a fellow Jag-lover had a situation several years ago that resulted from a relay failing to pass adequate current. Here is a link to that thread if you’re interested (warning - it is lengthy, with 193 posts):

Back to the topic at hand, I noted the resistance you spotted when checking the ground connection through the boot light switch. My boot light is working, albeit perhaps not as brightly as it should, and as I was in a hurry I did not pursue the matter. There does appear to be some corrosion around the switch where it mounts to a bracket so that may be the culprit.

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