I just installed a set yesterday. I can think of no reason not to. I mean, if you really like the idea of removing a shock/spring assembly every time you have to bleed brakes . . .
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That sounds like a challenge, so Iāll respondā¦ One reason not to is that it introduces more potential points of failure - ie more unions that can leak. Indeed, I understand that several folks had that problem with one of the remote bleeder kits on the market early on. Likewise, I have never found it necessary to remove a shock/spring assembly to bleed my rear brakes. If you have a suitable wrench it isnāt necessary, and though I wouldnāt describe the task as one I look forward to, I donāt see it as the horror that some do. I flush the brakes once every 2 years, and I can live with the hour or so it takes to do that without remote bleeders.
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Same here. I donāt seem to have a big problem bleeding the rear brakes. I can reach the bleeder nipples without having to remove the shock/spring unit. Stock set up, just like it left the factory.
Not only do I not remove the shock, I do not see the advantage to doing so. And I use a standard wrench.
Tom
My 1970 dos y dos (2+2) has nifty access panels behind the lower passenger backrest cushion to reach the calipers.
With the FHC Iām in the ādonāt see any advantageā camp as well. I did modify a wrench a bit to help. Never had to remove a shock.
The 2+2 models are stupidly easy to bleed . the rears were a one man job for me.
I think Iāll see how easy it is for me to get to those bleeders before I drop the diff. If it doesnāt look too crazy, Iāll skip the remote bleeders.
I could not get to the bleeder screws without removing a shock on the corresponding side. I had it on a 4 post lift so I had plenty of room, and I puzzled over it for a long time before biting the bullet and removing the forward shock(s).
If someone has a picture of how these bleeders can be accessed (with a standard wrench no less) without removing the front shocks on a 4.2 Series 1 OTS, Iād like to see it so I can figure out how to do it next time.
I thought about the XKS bleeders but a search of the archives gave mixed reviews on them. The last thing I want to deal with are more brake fluid leaks (especially after having to replace the master cylinder then spending weeks trying to fix a leaky brake fluid bottle nipple.)
Dave
Fair enough. I guess Iāll see how they work out for me.
If you have the XKS (now Moss) remotesā¦ I had trouble getting the bleeder to seal well. It came with Speedibleeds which I changed to standard bleeders but still a drip.
Waht worked in the end was to use a steel ball (3/16" I think) in there after having ground the tip off a bleeder and cut a notch in it too:
The magnet on the outer end is just to hold everything together until it is assembled. The notch makes it easy to bleed without removing the bleeder or ball.
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Dave, I do not have an actual photo, but I will do what I can. First, I realize there are some things I may be able to do, others cannot, and vice-a-versa. We all have different dexterities, etc. There also are sometimes small vehicle variations that can make a difference.
That being said, I use a standard combination wrench like this- I do not remember the size:
I put the car up on jack stands. I reach up and then reach in to the bleeder through the opening as shown in this photo from above:
I reach in exactly as your eye is looking in at the bleeder in this photo. I do it by feel. There is plenty of room to swing the wrench at least as far to get the next angle with the box wrench. The shock is over to the left in this photo. I do not go near it.
My biggest issue was getting the hose on the bleeder. I could line up the hose on the bleeder, but there was not enough room for me to easily have my fingers use enough strength to force the hose on the bleeder. I now use the rubber angle shown in my first photo. I connect my hose to it and I can easily press the rubber angel over the opened bleeder.
I then ensure the reservoir is full. I press the brake pedal down halfway, then release repeatedly at a moderate speed. I do not close the bleeder between pumps. I usually do the entire job alone.
I agree with David above. It is not a job I look forward to doing. The fronts are much easier. But, once I commit to it, I simply get started and do it. Hoping there are no issues. Such as breaking a bleeder or having air when done. So far, it has always gone smoothly. Clearly each personās choice.
Tom
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Tom can you tell where you got your angle piece ? I have a 1.5 and I have always had to reach the bleed nipple from behind the shock. I stuffed my clear bleed hose into a piece windshield washer hose that is stiff enough so I can push it down onto the nipple with my fore finger and middle finger but first I open the nipple with a Craftsman wrench just like the one in your photo. Would probably be easier if I could find an angle piece like yours. Below is photo of my hose end installed on the bleed nipple and another with my whole bleed set up on one of my front Willwood calipers since is impossible for me to show things well on our beloved inboard rear brakes. Donāt worry about the rust showing on my rear caliper piston. That is from when my bleed nipple was leaking a few years ago. I did have to remove the forward shock to replace the nipple.
David
68 E-type FHC
With the car up on jack stands, I checked out the rear caliper bleeders. Wow, they are tucked in tight but not unmanageable - I hope!!! I think Iāll pass on the remote bleeders for now and go for bleeding fingers in the near future.
Tom,
Thanks for the pics. Iāll check this out next time I have the Jag on the lift. If I think I can tackle dropping the IRS and replacing a leaky rear transmission seal in a week, I might attempt it sometime in the next couple months, and then Iāll be bleeding the rear brakes againā¦
Dave
David, the one I show came with a Harbor Freight brake bleeder/vacuum pump someone gave me. I also found this kit on lilne, not mine so I do not know how it would actually fit. I assume there are others available.
Mityvac MVA6913 UNIVERSAL BRAKE BLEED ADAPTERS | Tool Discounter
Tom
I started bleeding my rear brakes yesterday. Iām using a combination of vacuum and pressure. Lots of bubbles!!! Any reason not to put the inner tube on both bottles?
Iāve got no problem getting to the rear caliper bleed screws with a standard wrench. The car is still on stands with the wheels off.
I think its a great idea to do it that way.
Thanks. I had trouble getting much fluid from the rear calipers. I donāt want to run the engine while Iāll bleeding the brakes so I disconnected the vacuum line from the valve on top of the vacuum canister. I pulled a bit of a vacuum in that line with my mighty vac and got much better flow to the rear calipers which if I understand the system, it make sense. Itās a ridiculously elaborate setup.
I have an distributor wrench that works perfectly with the rear calipers.
I use the little elbows that came with the mighty vac kit too.
I purchased both the Ares 2L pressure bleeder and the Motive Products - 0100 European Power Brake Bleeder Kit and found that the screw-on adapter fit poorly at best. The good news is that Wilwood makes a master cylinder cap for the Girling style threads. It fits very well.
I will modify the Wilwood cap to work with the Motive Products pressure bleeder.