Hi folks,
I would like to buy a power break bleeding kit, and have looked through the past threads. There seems to be difficulty finding caps for the kits which fit E-type reservoirs. I am looking at the Gunson and Motive kits. Or any other kits that members may recommend. Do any of these kits have caps that will fit our reservoirs? Can you recommend kits that you have used and been happy with?
All responses are appreciated.
Gary
I’m interested in this question too, since I already own a Motive bleeder from working on my BMW Z3. I’ll get the cap for the Jag too if someone has any positive feedback about it.
Since you looked through the threads perhaps you saw the alternative of using a bicycle inner tube to apply modest air pressure to the reservoir:
It worked for me, cost just a couple of bucks and provides a very controlled (and visual) pressure.
I would 2nd the suggestion regarding the bicycle tube. I have a Motive pressure bleeder. It works great on my P cars, with a cap that fits snugly. But on my Etype, I have never found a Motive cap that fits well.
A modification to the approach shown above is to take the other end of the innertube and put it over the other reservoir. Then you are all set to bleed both halves of the system. Here is a link to an inner tube that fits, barely, over the end of the reservoir on my 67 2+2. I secured it with standard hose clamps. Worked like a charm. (I had to stretch it a bit, you might go one size larger on the innertube, if you can find one that’s bigger)
BTW in concept with the Motive and other bleeders, you can fill the big bottle up with your new fluid. That might be fine for a busy shop but I only use my Motive bleeder, as with the inner tubes, to presurize the fluid bottle on the car. It may take a little more on and off but you don’t wind up with a lot of fluid in the big bottle that starts to absorb water and go bad.
Hi,
I did see the inner tube idea in the threads. I thought it was a clever idea. I may give this a try!! Thanks!!
My feeling was it would be simpler with a power kit. Wouldn’t have to pull out a spare tire and adjust the pressure. But I can’t be that lazy, can I?
Gary
I have used the inner tube method for years but was looking for something better for my other cars. The Motive device comes with a cap that fits my Alfa and I think my XK8. for the E type went to the plumbing dept. and got some rubber stoppers that fit brake and clutch bottles. Drilled holes in the stopper and inserted a brass barb fitting to mate with Motive.
Came up with a way to secure the stopper with a clamp to stop it from popping off. I have not put fluid in Motive, just use it to create air pressure and then refill bottles as necessary.
Glenn
Thanks for input. Another good idea.
Scratch my comment on using a spare tire to fill inner tube!!! Old timers disease!! I guess I had the Gunson kit on my mind. Lol!!!
The Motive kit with European cap fits the brakes not clutch. Depending on your reservoirs however it can be very snug. You have to rotate backwards until it aligns and the press down hard while slowly rotating it on. Once engaged it goes on without much difficulty. This is the one I have
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KM5L0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use a small bicycle air pump to inflate my innertube.
Well, I guess I’ll add my 2 cents worth here, I made a pressure bleeder with a Home Depot 1 gallon sprayer and an old cap that I had. Made a rubber gasket and a plumbing fitting to attach to the hose.
Not to disparage the inner tube but this is much easier to add fluid to when bleeding the brakes
Similar to yours, for the brakes, I found in my tool chest a gizmo my late father made. He had a Healy. It’s a Girling cap with an automotive quick connect that fit the brake reservoir for the E and I just connect a pancake compressor at 8 lbs or so pressure and keep an eye on the reservoir fluid level as I bleed. Work great!
Well, I found an old inner tube and tried this method to flush the CLUTCH line. The old dirty fluid came out until the new clear liquid reached the slave cylinder. At this time no air bubbles were apparent.
Got in the car and pushed the clutch. No resistance, right to floor. Pumped it a few times and resistance became hard. Could shift gears. After a few seconds the pedal would again have no resistance. Process repeated,
It’s always something! Does this sound like a seal? Air still in the system?
Gary
The Gunson kit has caps that fit both brake and clutch reservoirs.
Knock on wood, I’ve alway bled the clutch by gravity.
Cheers,
LLynn
You dont need anything special to bleed the brakes or clutch on an E type…i have done it dozens of times…but you do need to bleed it old school…start at the brake piston furthest from the reservoir…tube on the bleed nipple into a jar with some fluid in …remove reservoir cap…open bleed nipple…push pedal down and hold it down and close nipple…release pedal…open nipple…then repeat…untill no air bubbles seen in the tube…much easier if there are 2 doing this or just use a piece of timber to hold the pedal down against the seat base whilst you close the nipple…if going the clutch on the last stroke ensure the pushrod is fully pressed in to express any trapped air befor closing the nipple…if you dont have a hard pedal after this there could still be some air in the system so repeat
Thanks MGCJAG for your response. I’m going to bleed the clutch again tomorrow following your old school advice.
Thank you for all the responses. I appreciate your time!!!
Regarding the fact that you need to “pump up a pedal” after the clutch is allowed to sit closed for a few minutes.
It definitely sounds like you have a blown seal.
Put fresh cardboard under the car and try the clutch a few times. The location of the puddle will tell you whether the problem is the master or slave cylinder.
If it is the master, service both. Once you are in there, pulling the slave is not excessive additional work. Just a ton of peace of mind, if you do.
