Hi everyone!
I used the Permatex grease that comes in the green tube for the guiding pins. Is that the right stuff or you guys can recommend me a better one?
Thanks!
Hi everyone!
I used the Permatex grease that comes in the green tube for the guiding pins. Is that the right stuff or you guys can recommend me a better one?
Thanks!
Joe,
Donāt know about it being better, but I always used a smear of āCopper Easeā copper grease on those guide pins, this sort of stuff - http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/grease/halfords-copper-grease-20g - . I removed them individually at every service , cleaned them up and then re=treated them. Never had a problem thereafter.
Thanks Bryan for the answer. Iāll get some copper grease.
+1 on Coppaslip for the pins, pad guides etc.
I also use āLong Life Lubeā in a spray can on every single fastener which isnāt Loctited, pivot, hinge and on mating surfaces like hubs/Disc wheels. Itās essentially Nevr Sieze in a spray can. It makes disassembly easier, even decades later.
Like Bryan Iāve used copper grease for as long as I can remember. But out of curiosity I started to research it a bit and stumbled on this interesting article ā¦
"THE USE OF COPPER GREASE ON MODERN BRAKES
There is a great deal of confusion throughout the motor trade regarding the use of copper grease on brake calipers. Old school mechanics swear by it and have used it for many years seemingly without problems. On the other hand, many mechanics have heard rumours that it should not be used around brakes and road wheels but are often not sure as to the reasons why.
What is Copper Grease?
Copper grease is an anti-seize compound consisting of fine copper particles in a non-melting Bentone (a type of clay) base to which are added highly effective oxidation and corrosion inhibitors. Copper grease is used for mating surfaces which work under high temperatures. Under these conditions, the lighter fractions evaporate leaving copper and other contents behind, giving an anti-seize property.
The problem however, is that aluminium is very susceptible to electrochemical reaction known as a galvanic corrosion. This occurs when it comes into contact with copper in the presence of an electrolyte, even salty water will do. This is most commonly seen as the white chalky powder seen on the back of alloy wheels.
A spectacular example of galvanic corrosion occurred on the Statue of Liberty in New York. Galvanic corrosion had taken place between the outer skin made from copper and the wrought iron frame. Although the designers had anticipated this and used an insulating layer of shellac between the two metals, over time this failed. Why did the wrought iron corrode and not the copper? Copper is the more noble metal and much more resistant to corrosion.
We recommend Cera Tec. Cera Tec is a ceramic based anti-squeal lubricant designed specifically for braking systems. It is heat resistant (up to 1000Ā°C), non-conductive, contains no solid constituents or metals and is approved for use on ABS equipped vehicles. It facilitates brake assembly and reduces brake squealing."
Never heard of āCera Tecā but it does have some excellent reviews. Bottom line iāll still use the copper grease !
Dennis,
That comes in to the āIf it aināt broke, donāt fix itā category!
Some people recommend a silicone based grease since it gets into contact the rubber boot so it wonāt damage it.
OK Iām an imposter on this list as my Jag is an older model but as this applies equally here goesā¦ Despite our damp climate in the UK very few shops will use anti-seize grease as they work. I guess their view is that if youāre going to get through a bucket of the stuff every month it becomes a significant cost etc. so they donāt.
One consequence of this is the number of motorists who find themselves at the road side with a flat and unable to get an alloy wheel off because galvanic corrosion has āweldedā it onto the hub.
Iāve always used a thin smear of copper based anti-seize on the mating surfaces of alloy wheels and hub and have never had a problem.
Iāve also owned my Jag and other cars long enough to have to redo maintenance jobs that Iāve done before and have had cause to be glad I used anti-seize first time around.
Old school it may be but Iāll keep using it.
Brake guide pins always seem to rust horribly and become hard to remove if not greased.