Try the fishing tackle section for these or organizers similar to these:
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Ray, are you thinking or making and selling these adapter plates?
Ray does bmw make a model Without the clutch line since I now use the tr4 / rover
Clutch master cylinder?
I like this
20 more parts go in the pale!
They do, for the 2002 with auto trans:
It is harder to find.
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You can also simply plug the third port.
Thank you my friend will be home in two weels
Here is an interesting explanation from a Ducati forum:
"Unlike the brake system, as the disc in the clutch wear, (and along with the natural flow of fluid in the system) fluid is displaced into the reservoir. In a brake system, as brake pads wear and the piston is displaced further into the caliper, the fluid in the reservoir decreases.
With the clutch, the fluid in the reservoir increases, bringing along with it, any contaminants, crud, or dust that happens to get into the system. If you’ll notice, this is why you have a ‘min’ and a ‘max’ line on the clutch reservoir, but only a ‘min’ line on the brake."
But then we should have seen it on cars who share the reservoir between all (two) three systems?
I have seen black fluid in my Ducati, and my sis’ MX5. So far I thought the clutch reservoir is not sealed as the brake and attracts more water.
I just noticed something similar to this today. I had replaced all the fluid in both brake circuits and the clutch this past winter. With only ~200 miles of driving, I now notice the clutch fluid is considerably darker than the fluid in either of the brake reservoirs.
Dave
Dave,
I have been battling clutch fluid that turns dark for years. Something is reacting with the clutch fluid.
It is actually a suspension of very fine particles when I look very closely.
I tried multiple fluid flushings.
I have replaced, multiple times, the reservoir, low pressure hose, hose at the bell housing, clutch master cylinder and clutch slave cylinder - all with no result.
I have even tried DOT 5 fluid.
Dennis
69 OTS
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FWIW - The all-in-one reservoir that is the subject of this thread has been in my car for over a year now, and the fluid is still pristine. In fact, it is so clean, I have to remove the cap to be able to actually see the fluid level. Anyone having problems with the fluid turning dark HAS a problem with the materials in their hoses or seals. Period.
The above MAY apply to the clutch hydraulics on a Ducati motorcycle, but certainly does NOT apply to an E-Type, at least with the more common non-hydrostatic clutch hydraulics. With a non-hydrostatic clutch hydraulics, assuming proper maintenance is performed, the slave cylinder operates over the same range of motion regardless of any clutch wear. There is NO mechanism by which fluid could possible be pushed back into the reservoir as a result of clutch wear. With the hydrostatic setup, as the clutch components wear, the range of motion of the slave cylinder can shift in EITHER direction, depending on whether the wear is in the clutch disc or the throw-out bearing. Even so, the fluid should NOT turn dark unless rubber parts in the hydraulics are degrading, and contaminating the fluid, which is a clear indication of incorrect materials, or a pretty extreme case of inadequate maintenance (i.e. - the components are degrading due to extreme old age).
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Hello Ray,
“Period” is a strong word!
I agree there is a reaction but I have replaced everything in the clutch fluid system multiple times and the problem is still there. The only thing not replaced is the metal fluid line
Dennis
69 OTS
Well, it is not impossible there is an incompatibility with the hard lines in your car, if they used an inappropriate plating or something. The point is, that is NOT an inherent characteristic of clutch hydraulics. It simply does not happen on MOST cars, and there should be no difference in the materials used in cutch system as compared to a brake system. It has never happened on my E-type, in well over 20 years of use.
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It is a mystery to me. The discoloration is a suspension of some sort
One thing I wonder about is the situation where (with the stock system) fluid migrates from one brake reservoir to the other. That is, over time one goes down and the other goes up. I do not recall what the problem is that causes this to happen on some cars.
If it is harmless then it is just an inconvenience (adjusting fluid levels) but if it is indicative of a problem that should be addressed then I think having just one reservoir would conceal the issue.
That is a failed seal in the servo master cylinder on the Lockheed system. Can’t happen in the Dunlop system.
Also more common on S3’s due to the way the bottles are mounted.
I think there’s a problem with the low pressure hoses supplied by the majors. These would be the lines between he bottles and the cylinders. I found that after a short period of time, they would sweat brake fluid, and it wouldn’t surprise me if they were degrading internally. That may explain some of the discolored fluid problem. I use EDPM hose, which can be purchased from any industrial supply house.
With the clutch, I think that because the mechanism forces the piston back to the rear of the slave cylinder, there’s a large portion of the cylinder wall that’s lightly coated with fluid and exposed to moist air under the car. It may not be enough to ruin the cylinder, but I bet there’s always light surface rust there after a winter’s nap. I think the boot from the Isuzu slave cylinder provides a more airtight seal than the stock Dunlop seal, and that may help,. The Isuzu lip seals may be more efficient at 'wiping up". You can send a sample of the clutch fluid to Blackstone, and they can determine whether the discoloration is rust, rubber, or oxidation.
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Ray , I cant thank you enough…
I love my Etype but as I drive it more and more, reliabilty is the key.
Thanks to you I found a bottle with NO transmission spout as I have the willwood clutch master.
Will report back…as Im not worried about stock, hopefully another Mickey Mouse issue will be done with.
Thanks again
GTJOEY1314