I have 205 tires on my 1968 OTS. The bump stop rubber on the bracket is coming in contact with my tires as seen in the picture. The car is not difficult to push so they obviously are not in contact when in normal sitting position.
I would rather not remove the brackets completely. Has anyone heard of grinding/cutting the bracket and rubber back a little? Also, it the bracket has to be cut off I have heard that there is another type of bump stop that can be installed. Any more information on this please? Any part numbers or pictures would be appreciated.
I removed the wheel and tire and them removed the rubber bumper part.
Next I attacked the metal bracket with a 36 grit belt on a belt sander. That take s the metal off fairly quickly. I reduced the depth of the bracket such t hat the self locking nuts we re flush with the edge of the bracket. I also sanded the ends back even more so the ends appeared to be beveled when look at from above. See the yellow areas in your picture below. I did this to remove any corner that could contact a tire.
Next I nailed the rubber snubbers to a 2X6 and secured that in my Work Mate, tire side of the snubber up. . I drove the head of the nails below the surface of the snubbers. Then I used the belt sander to reduce the thickness of the snubber by about 60%.
Does the rubber buffer point slightly outwards? I seem to recall that some do and a bit more clearance can be obtained by simply rotating the rubber 180°.
Iâve been running my E Types with no rubber bump stock for at least 40 years, and without the metal bracket for the last 30 years with zero problems. There has never been any evidence of any unwarranted contact between the suspension components. This includes racing, hitting cubs at 100 mpg plus.etc.
Thank you. I will try this before totally removing them. Also, someone mentioned turning the rubber around in case one side sticks out more then the other.
I installed bump stop rubbers on the shaft of each of the four shocks when I removed the factory stop. Fairly short stroke available for the purpose, but better than metal to metal upon full compression.
I ran 205/70s on my 3.8 and only needed to flip the rubber around. Itâs angled so it makes quite a difference. the problem seems to vary with different cars
Remove the wheel and just use a disc grinder
Shave it down flush including 3/8 on the rubber
That way they still exist and and you have tons of clearance
Shave it with the bump stop ON
Gtjoey1314
Hi Robert,
When you do flip them around double check to see if they bump against the hub, mine didnât so were not doing anything. Currently I have them off my car as I am trying to track down a rubbing sound, Iâm not particularly concerned about not having them off but this topic has come up before and IIRC the consensus was that they should be installed.
Cheers,
LLynn
If you go on my 67 rebuild thread about a year back, its all there in picturesâŚonce done grinding shoot it with rubber undercoating and all will look stock
Good luck
gtjoey1314
Hi Geoff I raced a '65 coupe, and earlier a '65 ots for 14 years, between 1993 and 2007 in the Pacific N.W. - Calgary, Edmonton, Vancouver, Seattle, and Portland.
