C-19379 the puk bracket on the inner (under the car by the reaction plate) is moved or tilted in toward the center of the E thus tightening the front suspension…in essence pushing down on the front suspension thus raising the height of, in this case needed here, the left side of the car.
David, comments below 1 "click’…moving 1 spline (there are 25 on one end of the torsion bar and 24 on the other…bars are sided and embossed on the ends) will raise or lower the side of the E 3 to 4 inches (I have no actual experience just reported).
Mitch and Vicki.
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Mitch
Some may inherently know, but it will help most folks if you provide the YOM of your E-Type. I know it is a Series I or II, but not much more beyond that.
Craig
Craig,
the reference (in heading) to C-19379 defines series 2
U need to move both the front and the rear splines together , this way you will get increments of 1/4” for each notch
If u move just one notch on front or back u will get about 3/4” movement in height
Ask me how I know
Good info…
Thank you. rocknjag
It was a long time ago, lol
O
If u divide the notches on the front and rear into 360 degrees , draw it up and extend the rays out to where the ball joint is, gives u a idea of the height I get of u move just one end
It’s a brain teaser.
The front splines have different quantity than the rear
It’s geometry
U will do it probably three times , keep notes
YOM = Year of Manufacture (FYI - I have seen it used so often here, I didn’t think I needed to spell it out). My bad.
Ohhh- a Series III does have torsion front suspension but it comes with an eccentric cam build in that permits small adjustment of the ride height
Since your adjustment was implied to be relatively small, I deduced this eccentric was not available; hence the Series I or II.
Craig
(“I have a High School diploma” – he said, responding to a the truly superfluous comment on a Jaguar Forum)
You succeeded - but I choose to ignore (most of) it
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Always thought the SIII adjustable mechanism for the TB’s were on the reaction plate but I see a different and very clever solution that Jaguar came up with.
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Marco
Not only is the eccentric cam cleverly simple, the Series III doesn’t a reaction plate.
The aft end of the torsion bar is held in place with Torsion Bar Bracket
clamped to the forward face of the Reaction Bracket
In situ
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I think that you’ll find that it is a lot more than that. If you only move the bar 1 spline at one end and leave the other end in its original spline the total effect on ride height of that side of the car will be more like 3-4". For small changes in ride height you always need to rotate the bar the same number of spline at each end. A single spline (each end) gives about 0.2" change in ride height - 2 each end gives twice that, etc… It isn’t quite linear, so these figures only have limited value. Use a setting link as described in the Workshop Manual and things will work out better. Just know that not all torsion bars are created equal as dimensions changed over the years and now the usuals sell “uprated” versions that are stiffer so the factory setting link dimensions won’t be correct…
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Thank you David…my left side is 1" lower…
I would not be changing it…except I needed to install the upgraded front main seal on the crank. Got the oil pan out but putting it back with gaskets and all…seemed quite ifish. Add to this, removing the reaction plate was not an issue (i figured and correctly for Vicki and I it was quite do-able) therefore just drop the reaction plate and get the oil pan and crank seal on correctly…
Still what to do about the ride height…seems I will just leave it as is
Again thank you for the info
Mitch
So, the front splines have different quantity than the rear, I did not know this.
It’s a job that I have to do later, nice to read that there’s help, here.
Frank.
I agree with u Dave
It was 12 years ago that I did it,
I tried the setting link and was not happy
I finally understood how the two different ends of the torsion bars work
Took me three times m but I got good at it
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Do it, just be patient enough to first try the setting link
Then evaluate it. The setting link may of been more effective when the torsion bars were new.
Roll up your sleeve and be prepared to do it a few times
Keep notes
I recall I used a piece of masking tape with a arrow on it to remind me which direction to rotate the torsion bar. It becomes very disorienting while under the car
There is a good reason they are nicknamed torture bars
Once I figured it out I was very satisfied.
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Mitch, if it’s 1 inch low on the left, it’s never going to handle right.
I would make a setting link based on the right side to get the left to match.
You can do it. easier than a crank seal.
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Tom,
Do you realize what you just said? You said. some 9 out of 10 E’s do not handle…yes yes…that is because some 9 out of 10 E’s lean to the left (in the USA)…the gas, driver, battery are on the left (now in England the driver off sets)…
If an MGB, Miata can equal the distribution of weight…then so can I !
To this end…I move the battery over to the right on my E’s
Thank you for the encouragement…perfection is a tough nut to crack
Mitch
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This continued emphasis on perfect weight balance on a street car always endlessly amuses me… 
I’ve driven way more than my share of E types with their “bad” weight balance, and they all handled just fine.
If one can’t make an E type, in stock form, on any but all the highest performance parameters handle, the problem doesn’t lie with the car.
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Paul
How true…still we all need something to worry about
Mitch
How about balancing the weight by bringing along a big St Bernard canine to sit in the passenger seat
I do think that having the same ride height on left and right side is a good thing to achieve if you are fooling around with the torsion bars
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