I’ve taken the cam covers off my 4.2 Series 1 E-type for the first time. To check the valve clearances and to see maybe if I can see the cause of a intermittent ticking sound (which probably happens 50% of the time.)
Well, now I know why the cam covers have the reputation for potentially leaking lots of oil! I presume it’s a OK idea to siphon off a lot of that pooled oil (I hope that’s normal.) There was a lot of blue stuff used to glue the gaskets on. I have Cometics at the ready for replacement.
Now, I was looking for signs of the dreaded loose tappet guides. If one has worked loose, then the signs are too subtle for me to detect. Maybe more experienced eyes can see something?
Finally, looking at the cam lobes, I see some blemishes on a few lobes. This is the most obvious blemish of the lobes I can see before I use a remote starter switch to turn the motor and cams over for valve clearance checking.
Not sure about stakedowns, I guess they’re typically installed on the bottom of the cam galley (under the pooled oil?) No grub screw type external retainers for the tappet guides.
No tappet hold downs on the inside of the cam galleys either. I understand that, assuming I don’t have a loose tappet guide now, that the older XK blocks are less prone to having this happen.
But the engine I believe was rebuilt back in the 80’s (where it then sat for nearly two more decades before the previous owner got back together, and then it passed to me.)
If I recall correctly, Gran Turismo Jaguar did the rebuild back then. I heard they were getting back in business a couple years ago, but haven’t seen anything since.
Properly installed cam covers don’t leak unless the mating surfaces are warped. I always use paper gaskets myself although Cometic gaskets are popular on some forums. None of my 4 cars leak.
Treat each side of the gasket with either spray Hylomar or Loctite 515. Tighten to 4 lbft. If there is any leak retighten to 7lbft. The blue stuff you see is probably silicone.
If at 7lbft you still have a major leak your mating surfaces aren’t flat. Consider having the cam cover faced. Alternatively a quick and dirty fix is to reassemble with the cursed blue silicone. Initially don’t tighten the nuts down; just snug them. Let the silicone cure for 48 hours, THEN tighten to 4lbft.
Suck out the oil with a syringe or mop it up with a towel.
You can’t tell if the tappet guides are loose by looking or poking them, and you really can’t fit a tie down kit with the head on as you need to drill holes in the head. IMO the best you can do is shim your tappets correctly and ensure the timing chain is tight. If you still have noise then you’ll need to take the head off.
I’d not use the remote starter…several reasons, but hard to get the cam lobes to stop where you want to check clearances. With spark plugs out, (holes covered with towell), easy to turn engine by crank damper end, or in 4th gear push a little if you have a few feet. (then neutral to roll back–then 4th to roll forward) . Oil in galley is normal. Too much blue sealer or similar has risk of some coming off and blocking a cam oilway or other. This is a good time to also verify TDC marks, verify cam timing notch line up with the tool, and check timing chain tight. Report back on what you find for your clearances before you do more. Nick
Thanks all. I didn’t actually have any (significant) leaking from the cam covers. Just a bit of dampness at the base on the intake side and around all the nuts and washers. Only visible due to the dirt sticking to it.
I probably should have put it on my lift before pulling the cam covers so I could rotate the crank manually, but I was too lazy to pull the car already on the lift. I use the roll forward/back trick on my Mini, but the E-type is a lot heavier. I have a tough time pushing it even in neutral let alone in gear, but maybe I’ll try it.
But it’s a great ideal to check TDC and cam timing. Ugh, I have to go get the toolkit out of the attic to use the cam tool…
just be sure the rotation of the engine, if by crank nut or rolling is in the proper direction as when in operation. A helper for pushing or crank nut, lets you stop at the marks you want…without crawling back and forth !
Nick
But easier still is to jack up the LR corner (put jack under the wish bone and you do not need to raise the car as much) then rotate the road wheel with the gearbox in 4th.
I’ve fitted a lot of kits and I would not try this.
When drilling you go through the full thickness of metal and exit into the oil pathway below. You will definitely get swarf in there you can’t see and won’t be able to remove. Then you need to tap the hole as well. More swarf. Oil on the metal will make swarf stick too.
I do this with clean dry heads. once I’ve drilled and tapped I put the whole head in the parts washer clean thoroughly then dry with compressed air.
