I think to measure camber of the rear wheels, zeroing the gauge to a vertical something checked with bubble level should allow me to read the number off the gauge. And, should eliminate the need to check the angle of the floor?
If your floor is pretty close to level, less than a degree off in either direction, it won’t make that much difference to the camber of a street vehicle.
If you’re that close, you’re close enough!
If your floor is flat and the top of the picture frame is level you should have a good starting point.
If you’re really anal check and see if both front shocks mounting points are also the same lenght.
When I was learning the panel forming game, after working on a part for some time, my mentor came to check and asked how it was. I replied that it was close enough, whereupon he tore strips off of me saying: “close enough is not good enough, it has to be perfect”.
I worked away at it for some time more and when he checked again, I reported that it was perfect, to which he replied, “that will be close enough.” 
Regards,
Bill
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I have a digital level that is supposed to be accurate to within 0.1 degree. To zero it I’ve screwed a length of aluminum angle to the side of a shelf unit. It’s as perfectly horizontal as I could get it by aligning it with the string on a plumb bob. I also use the angle to zero my analog (bubble) camber gauge. Before taking any measurements on the car I make sure the tires are all inflated the same on each side and that the spots I’m placing the tires are as level, left to right, as I can measure. I use 12X12 VCT tiles to achieve that.
Hi John,
How did your camber adjustment experiment go?
Hope all is well, on all fronts.
Panel forming… 10ths of a degree on a street car, with street tires: UTTERLY different parameters.
Having set up and aligned hundreds of both race cars snd street cars… perfect IS the enemy of good enough.
