Would a 3/8" to 1/4" adapter with a 1/4" ratchet be helpful? Perhaps a 1/4" with a longer handle? Not sure if you can even buy a 5/8" socket with 1/4" drive. My set ends at 9/16".
I managed to undo the lower banjo bolt with a 3/8 drive socket and breaker bar ( 13 ins long) but the access from the top means very limited travel on the breaker bar because of the inlet manifold and heat shield. A shorter breaker bar would be better. Access from the bottom I would think requires removal of the exhaust pipes and when lying under that car you cannot see the banjo bolt but this should allow more angular movement of the breaker bar. There is no doubt that on my 1970 series 2 it would be impossible to get a normal 3/8 drive and ratchet on the lower banjo. You could get a ring spanner on if it is thin enough and I might sacrifice one of my spanners and grind it down.
I take the point that getting this banjo bolt tight enough to seal without breaking the bolt will be nerve racking. The copper sealing washers than were on all three banjo bolts ( probably original to the engine) were 5/8 ins OD, 3/8 ins ID and about 0.015 ins thick ( I would guess no more than 0.020 thick when new). McMaster Carr has some copper washers with the correct OD and ID and in two thickness 0.016 ins and 0.021 ins. I have order a flexible cam shaft oil feed and this supposedly comes with washer so I will wait to see how thick they are before I order the McMaster Carr ones. There is no doubt about it as someone as already pointed out that using too thick a washer will reduce the oil flow
Youâll need six, actually.
sometimes it takes some study and measuring to be sure that the oil holes in banjos actually have open space for oil flow and are not blockedâŚby too thick washers, incorrect banjo design , etcâŚthe hole in banjo had to have open oil flow pathway. Nick
Yup, Stuartâs carbs look to be SU H8s - and if they were really taken from a 1952 C-type then they may be very valuable indeed.
Stuart, you might want to take the other Nickâs advice and post that pic in the XK forum. Guaranteed interest.
I did post the pictures of the carbs on the XK forum and one guy they were Burlen reproductions of H8s so they are not worth that much. The guy suggested that I replace them with a set of HD8s as, he says, they are a much better carb
Stuart
The HD8s used in the E-type were of course the triple setup, though you could install just a pair. You might be better off sourcing a pair of original Zenith-Strombergs. They tend to be fairly available at good prices, especially from enthusiasts whoâve done the E-type conversion to triples. Burlen carbs are still good quality and there will be a market for the sandcast carbs for more than it will cost to replace them with Z-S.
Edit. Just checked out your post in the XK forum. Rogerâs an expert, so you can take his assessment as accurate.