I’m trying to get the center radio console to fit so that the center instrument panel will fold down. I intentionally left dynamat off of the top of the transmission tunnel because I had read past posts that clearance was an issue. At this point the radio console would have to drop by about 1/4" for the panel to fold down with the “light bar” in place. I’m out of ideas on how to make this work. Any help?
I had this problem with an aftermarket AC installation. Solved it by making the switch label bar easily removable. Cut slots in the plastic and metal pieces and slide them over two screws that project downward from the fold out panel. A few pieces of foam glued to the bottom of the label strip provide stabilization from the top of the evaporator (console in your case).
I’m beginning to wonder if this panel dropped down even when they were new, I had to do the same thing Eric did when I was refreshing my friends car last winter. I tried everything except ‘armadillo’ing’ the cover like Jerry M. has done. I removed the light bar and then reinstalled it with a ‘knob screw’ (sorry I don’t know what the real name is but they are the same as the screws that hold the instrument panel in the up position) IIRC I had to drill out the holes slightly then tapped it for the ‘set screw’. This works well as you just remove the screws and then the lightl/label panel can be removed and the panel opened. A little more complicated but it works ok and the panel can be tipped down.
Cheers,
LLynn
Thanks for the replies gentlemen. L. Lynn, that’s exactly what I was considering. I am concerned that the center of the light bar will sag without the inner screws.
Lynn,
Mine always opened easily from when I got it. I didn’t have to do anything unusual to the cover, maybe you are thinking of Mike Moore?
All I did was be careful that there was no sealant or seals between the cover and the tunnel, and pushing the cover firmly down when tightening. Then I used “real” duct tape to seal the cover from the outside (also seal everything else on the cover). I made sure there was nothing between the console and the cover, including the upholstery on the sides – no under-foam right on the edge (original material was thinner than modern stuff). Install everything with hard pressure down. My '64 has a screw on the right side of the console at the bottom to grab it firmly. I think that is left off of some restorations, maybe not used on some 4.2s? That may help. Even if the rear of the console is up a little (it won’t show) make sure the front is down as far as possible. Push the radio box down hard, too, and pull it forward as much as possible on the mounting bolts; the front needs to be as far down and forward as possible, the back not so much.
I got an aftermarket switch label panel which had a bottom edge that stuck down another 1/8" or so because the bottom edge was at a right angle to the front, which is angled when installed. I used sandpaper or reshape it to the same angle back so it ended up parallel to the floor when installed. That made a difference too. Unfortunately the OEM panels don’t exactly match the original font! None of them did (when I got mine in 2000). You get used to it. I don’t have to remove it to open the fuse box.
Jerry
My Series II has that also. It does make a difference. Push down firmly in front of the ash tray and tighten the screw. For some reason Jaguar felt a similar arrangement on the left was unnecessary, perhaps because the parking brake mechanism was in the way.
Can you guys describe “the screw” with a little more detail? What kind (size?) screw is it. It goes through some part of the console? And what does it screw into - a speedy clip etc, into the transmission tunnel?
Thanks Terry
Look at what I’d call the right side skirt of the console; the vinyl covered metal section that goes between the seat and the tunnel. Near the front lower corner you will find a vertical slot. It lines up with a fixed caged nut welded to the side of the tunnel. I’m doing this from memory, but I believe the thread size is 1/4" fine thread’ length is short. I used a pan head phillips head screw and a washer.
Rick,
This is once of the areas where most restorers struggle. In my case I used the original plastic transmission tunnel cover and left the heat insulation (Kool Mat) off, and I pressed down on the console and up on the dash panel while tightening the brackets for the console. Still I could not get the clearance to allow the panel to hinge without interference on the ash tray panel. I ended up making my legend strip (the plastic label strip) below the instrument panel removable so it allows the panel to move.
Terry,
What John Walker said, except that on a 3.8 it’s a chromed flat screwdriver pan head screw on a chromed washer. Here it is:
Jerry
And it probably was on mine originally as well. I used what I had laying around since it’s an area pretty well hidden. I’ll keep an eye out though for a band of purists with torches and pitchforks. 
I moved all of my fuses (the original 8 plus 8 more) outside to the original voltage regulator location, then plumbed new color-coded wires into the original fuse area and connected them to all the original wires’ spade connectors where the old fuse blocks are located. Added relays for hi & lo beams behind splash shield where horn relay is located.
Result: modern fuses and connectors, no need to modify dash wiring, no more unfused leads behind dash, switched loads now individually protected, no need to tilt panel down if a fuse blows, and it’s reversible.
Also since I had replaced oil pressure and water temp gauges with mechanical units, a dash panel that needed dropping rarely if ever simplified instrument plumbing.
Tom, I did much the same…all 100% reversible. But sill have a few items behind the drop down panel and prefer reasonably easy access. Without a removable switch legend strip, I’d have to lower the AC evaporator to get the panel to drop.
Hi, since the demise of the old site, searching has for me, become harder. I know I responded to this at one time, but didn’t know how to access it.
Well, through perseverance I finally did find it, but I’m not sure I can tell you how to access it. I will try. Access the new XKE site forum and in the search function of the new site (magnifying glass at top right) type in “SI Radio Console”. Toward the bottom of the page find some Dark Green "T"s (those are my posts) together. Therein I explain how to infallibly get your instrument panel to swing down as designed. If you still can’t find the info, email me and I’ll send you a pdf of that info.
Addendum to above …
I just tried the instructions I gave you and they are a bit more complicated. After you access the search area of the new XKE forum site, ONLY type in “Radio Console” and DO NOT use the SI in front of it as that brings up some other stuff. You will be presented with about 10 searches. Just below those are the words “show more” (I think). click on that and it brings up a full page of 50 items. My two are near the bottom again.
Best regards, Brian
Thanks for the info. My '67 coupe has the hole in the console, with a caged nut behind it, but judging from the condition of the vinyl, which is still original to the car, it’s never been used. My '68 ots does not have the slot in the console. Don’t know if it has the caged nut.