**
If the source of the problem is the controller, Mark, implied by a completely unresponsive system - starting at the doors is a roundabout way…
That said, the solenoids are almost bullet proof - Kiekert motors are not. Motors can be ohmed; ‘0’ means a short, ‘1’ means a burnt out motor - some 4 - 5 ohms likely implies that the motor is OK. Getting S57 is certainly good advise - it also has some pointers as to parts location…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
thank you for that Frank.
Ok yes I would very much like an S57 wiring diagram 
I will contact you.
My “problem” is that I drive too little 
, so they probably get stuck for that reason.
Ok, well, I have not had time to test in the driver’s door, ie with 12 V I was probably lucky now that I read your previous answer Frank, I have, however, tested in the rear doors with 12 V and as MLee suggests and can not hear or see anything, broken?
My SIII is a -86 4.2 L, did it have solenoid or Kiekert motors? So I can measure the resistance across the connection to see if they are broken?
Greetings
Ronny
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Perfect then I know, thank you very much 
Now I have tested with a lamp and the lamp lights up all the time while a ticking sound is heard, so then it is the controller that is broken I guess. Attaches a picture of where I put the test lamp, I try the other pin and it lights up immediately without me locking the door and it ticks.
Ronny,
If no PO messed anything up and Jaguar’s documentation is correct, your locks are motorized if you have found a 15 A inline fuse. Cars with solenoids only have 3 A fuses in the fuse box.
Good luck
Jochen
75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)
Ok then I have motors thanks
**
Just to make sure, Ronny; you test with the test lamp connected between the orange/green and orange/red plug from the door?
Lamp fully lit at all times means that power is applied constantly to the motors. There are no safety back-up apart from the fuse - which should blow if all motors are intact. However, if one motor has burn out and the fuse is replaced - there is likely not enough current to blow a replaced fuse. And remaining motors will also burn out…
I learnt that lesson too late - and can quote chapter and verse on further procedures which I posted on the list ‘some’ years ago…
You can of course ohm all four motors to verify - and consider options.
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
Yes, this would indicate that your controller has a problem.
I would not reconnect it, as Frank said, constant power could damage all the other motors.
To test further, apply 12V and ground to the other plug and all other locks should lock, reverse the polarity and they should unlock.
I connected the lamp between earth and orange / red and also earth and orange / green from the door.
Was it wrong?
Yes I have planned to test the other part of the connector that goes to the other doors plus the boot lid, hope they are ok
You should connect the lamp between the Orange/Red and Orange/Green.
These are the cables that give the lock/unlock pulse from the controller to the other motors, reversing polarity each time.
If one of the lead has 12v all the time the controller is either mechanically stuck to one position or it’s broken.
I can’t remember but it could be possible that both leads have 12v when at rest. You should check what is happening when you lock/unlock. You should check it with the electric diagram.
There is also a small possibility that there is a short at the cables inside the door jam rubber boot thing. Easy to check.
Ok I go out to the garage and test tonight, thank you very much.
If the controller is either mechanically stuck to one position, it can get loose then, difficult to access.
Has now measured between orange / green and orange / red with the same result, the lamp is lit all the time and a ticking sound is heard. I have tried to connect power to the outgoing line ie to other doors but nothing happens, regardless of reversing polarity. Have also connected the power rear doors and the boot lid but the same there, nothing happens.
I also access the coupling in the driver’s door, just before the controller and there is power there.
Seems like all engines are broken, 
This error occurred about 4 years ago and I probably changed the fuse then and if I remember correctly, locked the left rear door once then everything died.
Do not drive often, just a few rides in the summer and it is of course not good for the car, must be improved there and has now put on the winter wheels so it will be aired soon just not plus degrees because then it will just be slush 
Has now measured between orange / green and orange / red with the same result, the lamp is lit all the time and a ticking sound is heard. I have tried to connect power to the outgoing line ie to other doors but nothing happens, regardless of reversing polarity. Have also connected the power rear doors and the boot lid but the same there, nothing happens.
I also access the coupling in the driver’s door, just before the controller and there is power there.
Seems like all engines are broken, This error occurred about 4 years ago and I probably changed the fuse then and if I remember correctly, the left rear door locked once then everything died.
Do not drive often, just a few rides in the summer and it is of course not good for the car, must be improved there and has now put on the winter wheels so it will be aired soon just not plus degrees because then it will just be slush
The point is that the lamp should briefly (couple of seconds) light up when the key or (driver’s door) flap is moved, Ronny. However, you should most certainly, while observing the lamp, move the flap to the opposite position - and see what happens. Point is that all easy tests should be performed before drawing conclusions - but any odds; the controller has failed…
When you tested the outgoing wires to the other doors; what power source did you use? An alternative is to ohm the two outgoing wires - with intact motors you should read somewhere around 1 ohm. ‘1’ on a digital multimeter would indicate 4 burnt out motors - a ‘0’ would indicate a short, which is highly unlikely…
The central locking is of course not vital - just convenient. Restoring likely requires 4 new motors and a controller, either Kiekert or much cheaper aftermarket units (or a mix) - but the latter requires some extra work. All DIY doable - and quite interesting when you get the bit between your teeth…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
