how about two flaps 1"&3"?
Are you talking about the flap on your shroud? You can order generic 1/16” neoprene rubber. Works just as well as the original and not too flimsy and not too thick.
1 Like
You couldn’t just roll out a 4” piece and trim it to fit? Also check McMaster.com. I’ll bet you $10 they have something that will work.
I bought a piece of neoprene from McMaster. I think it was 12 X 24 and cut out the needed sizes.
Gordon
I used McM’s Silicone rubber hi-temp sheet- P/n 1460N23, 40A on mine a couple of weeks ago. 12x12 sheet.
I really think the stock OEM Jaguar gauge’s are a little to be desired regarding accuracy . I installed two Auto Meter (A M) temp gauge’s along with oil press gauge. One sensor in each head SS water rail. Driving in Florida 90F traffic (air on) my highest temp read 220F on each A M gauge. My OEM dash gauge was in the middle of the “N”… Accurate OEM’s??? I installed Alum rad, two elec fans, Lutz 1 mod, 180 stats, wrapped Eueo exhaust. 10 years ago.
2 Likes
220 on my car is closer to the top of the N. Jaguar’s definition of “Normal” is too hot for my taste.
1 Like
and 220F is very rare. Normally I’m @ 200F, The stock dash gauge is about a touch below the “N” at that point, 220F.
1 Like
I found a silicone sheet that will yield enough material to recreate flaps.
WES
Bloody useless light. I’m going to give this a go - cheers!
Dan,
Please let me know if you need help with my modification to use the green “Caravan” advisory light to indicate when the auxiliary cooling fan is powered. I posted pictures of the modification, including the easy wiring path I used, when I first posted about it a few years ago. That post and those pictures should be easy to find in the archives by searching “caravan”. I made several very useful modifications like this to my wife’s 1990 XJ-S convertible to improve reliability and comfort. I made this one after we experienced a few instances of the auxiliary cooling fan not coming on when it was supposed to and the coolant temperature was a hotter than it should have been.
Paul
1 Like
What - no pic of what you are towing - in your case I would have expected to see a different symbol installed for the dash light (hint - symbol for the wingless jet) - Tex Terry, II - 1991 XJS V12 Classic Coupe, 1986 XJS V12 Coupe - 4/10/2020 1351hrs. EDT USA
A 4.0 shouldn’t be in danger of overheating anyway (although you don’t say how it has been “lumped”? 
). No air gap problems like with the V-12s. :reli
Just an more accurate update, about 1 hour of (non highway) driving, air on. 92F, high humidity, moderate traffic. OEM dash gauge temp just touching bottom of the “N” . The two AutoMeter gauge’s read 205F. Oil press 28lbs @ 750RPM
That sounds pretty consistent with my experience. Same conditions on the highway I’d expect to be in the mid-upper 190’s. Once I ditch the TH400, so the rad is not acting as my trans cooler, I will be curious to see if there is any improvement. Also since I expect to drop about 1000 rpm (vs. the TH400) from my highway cruise speeds I expect further improvement on the highway. Both the aluminum rad and manual trans made a noticeable difference in the cooling on our eType.
Thanks Paul,
I found your post right away by searching ’
Auxiliary’.
The photos are very helpful. Of course some slight differences with us having right-hand drive but nothing insurmountable.
But what a great idea - thanks for sharing it with us.
All the best from New Zealand
Daniel
My aluminum rad don’t have the auto (TH400) trans/rad cooler. I guess I get an extra qt of coolant without it. Even before I had the 5sp I ran the trans cooler behind the front bumper. I never liked that rad/trans cooler combo back in the 50’s, always had visions of anti freeze in the trans