Classic Auto Air (Retro Air)/FHC first test run

I finally charged the A/C on the '64 FHC and took it for a drive. It’s only about 85* F, but it’s very humid here in North Texas. Started off with max cool setting and the middle fan speed. About froze my buns off. Turned it down to low cooling and low fan speed…just right. With the far left vent aimed down toward your legs, the cool air dropping into the footwell makes it very comfortable (that said the car has a lot of heat insulation and deflectors installed). Engine stays cool…four row copper core radiator with single Coolcat fan in original shroud. RPM “hunts” a little more than usual when at idle with compressor engaged…needs some carb tuning. Can’t tell when the compressor cycles at forwards speeds.

Certainly not a test under severe temperature conditions, but it looks very promising. Beats getting pummeled with windows open.

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I have original A/C system except for the retro air sanden compressor kit.
Have been very happy and cool. I also can not tell when compressor kicks in or out except for maybe when at idle. Installed several years ago and have had no leaks of 134a. Can not say the same for the original compressor even after seal replacements.

Glenn

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Not a small reason I got tired of driving Tweety…:expressionless:

Eric I’m seriously considering installing Classic Auto Air (Retroair) A/C into my 69 FHC at the request of my wonderful wife. My car originally came with A/C but one of the POs removed it, so I do have the openings in the firewall for the evaporator hoses and condensate drains. A couple of questions:

How much space does the evaporator take up in the passenger foot well?
Did you have to fit V pulleys?
How did you deal with the radio console modification?
Do you have any tips and recommendations on the install?

Could you post some photos or send them directly to me?

BTW this is not my first A/C install. I installed a Retroair A/C into my MGB GT, but have had problems with leaking hoses.

Thanks a lot,

Andy

Andy,

The compressor installation for the 4.2 is different than for the 3.8. Below are photos of each. The 3.8 has the compressor on top. I had to buy a crank and water pump V- pulley. I don’t know if you’d have to use special pulleys for the 4.2, but you might be able to tell from the photos. I know they supply the idler pulley(s) in their kits. (I’ve heard that they sell a retrofit Sanden kit for factory AC equipped cars, but don’t know if they use the original brackets).

The evaporator is modeled off the original OEM unit (but with bigger vents). Plenty of leg/foot space on the passenger side for the unit in my car. I did hear that they were going to move the fan motor to the bottom of the unit, so it would hang down a bit more than for my installation (motor is on top and in a void in the under-dash structure). I believe the factory units had the motor on top, so your car would already have that cutout. You’d be way ahead of the game with the proper cutouts for hoses.

I modified the original console, which is pretty straight forward on an S1. What’s in there now is temporary, as I might fit a radio later, and I also want to make the front panel more like the original.

I fit a larger idler pulley on my S1 as it gave me a larger contact patch on the alternator pulley and reduces the severity of the reverse radius on the belt. The top mounted alternator for the 4.2 allows for a larger and probably more powerful unit…obviously a plus.

I located the accumulator under the brake reservoirs instead of on the same panel, as I didn’t like the cluttered look with a high mount. I therefor had to fabricate some new hoses. Best to ask them for adequate length of hoses and loose fittings if you want to modify anything. The accumulator bolts to the lower S2 heat shield that I subsequently purchased from one of the usuals. The photo is from during the trial installation, In any case the hose runs are now hidden by the inner fender/mud guard.

Didn’t care for the evaporator mounts in the kit, so fabricated my own. Happy to share photos of that later if you buy a kit.

Original brackets for the forward (firewall end) radio console supports are blocked by the evaporator. No work around in the kit…had to fabricate something. By the way, I dumped both evaporator drains out the passenger side, so that water doesn’t drip on hot exhaust pipes.

The discharge hose hook up to the evaporator is ridiculous. Solved with a right angle elbow, which also moves the hose inboard (not directly over drivers leg where there are reports of condensation drips).

You have to bend your own condenser brackets for the S1. Think the S2 brackets come in from the side If not, make dang sure they angle downward at a steep enough angle to clear the bonnet when closed (I had to redo mine…good thing I caught it before bumps showed up on the bonnet.



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Eric, many thanks for the information and photos. I particularly like the first photo with the small alternator below the compressor. That’s a very neat installation and looks far better than the S2 install that has the stock alternator above the upper frame rail and facing backwards. I wonder if I could do your install on my S2.

I had the same problem with my A/C install on my MGB GT and had to re fabricate many of the brackets so it would fit. So I’ve been there and know how it goes. These things are not “plug and play” although on the website they make it sound so easy.

Thanks again for your help and when I’m further along with the project will be back in touch.

Andy 1969 FHC

Rock Browning (Mr, Retro Air) placed the alternator on the bottom for the 3.8 (top photo) because the original generator bracket could be re-used. That simplified the bracketry for the compressor. Not sure if those generator bosses are on the 4.2 block, but I’m guessing that had something to do with his 4.2 arrangement (second photo), which certainly looks better than the backwards alternator on the factory installation. By the way, I just noticed they use the same alternator for both kits. Also, these photos are a couple of years old, so you might check with CAA.

Andy,
You asked a question about the original tensioner pulley location
on an original AC installation. My pics did not get to you.
Look in the Forums. Title: 69 Jag, S 2, F.H.C. 4.2 rebuild story.
3rd picture down, view from top shows original locations of
Compressor, tensioner pulley, and how & which belts hooked
up the compressor, generator, etc.
The tensioner pulley you can see from the top is bolted to a plate
that uses 3 bolts, some W/spacers, into the front of the block,
some use of water pump bolts.
Yes, the original space between the compressor belt & the edges
of the generator pulley is barely an 1/8”.

I raised the height of the main mounting plate supplied by Retro Air full AC kit by drilling different holes in the plate. Ten I was able to use all
original pulleys & belt positions. I needed to change one belt to size.
I used 1or 2 of the Retro pulleys supplied b/c they’re correct size
& new. I did not like the way the Retro directions said to set up
the belts & pulleys.
Michael Caro