Hello all,
I am in process of swapping out my stock 3:51 differential on my 1969 series 2 etype to a 3:07 ratio.
72,000 miles, I have owned car for 36 years
The IRS dropped out without a issue. Pretty easily actually ( except for one of the front radius arm bushings) I have the following few topics and just looking to see what others think.
The entire unit looks pretty good. Wondering if I want to start fixing things that don’t need to be fixed.
1- I noticed clean patches on top of both my hub carriers from where the bump stop makes contact. Wondering if it’s normal. Car sits at correct height, . The shocks seem original too. Car does not bottom out. IRS cage mounts to the body are very solid. But both the radius arm bushings are bad as well as the anti sway bars link bushings.
My opinion is that I feel that the clean patches from bump stops are due to the worn bushings when cornering. I do think the car can do better when in a sweeping turn on a exit ramp at 55 mph.
Regarding the shocks , I do not get any up n down bounce? i will remove the shocks from the coils and test them. I will probably buy a set since they probably have 70,000 miles on them ( I have 25,000 miles on the car since I owned her)
2- brake calipers: look solid, but need brake pads. I am very surprised at the condition the rubber at the Pistons is in. Rubber still pliable. I intend to inspect the Pistons closely for any wear and change the rubber
3- no slop at all at wishbone bearings
4- all universal joints Show no slop at all
I intend to ck everything and just change what is worn
Thank you
It really is up to the question about how you feel about dropping the IRS again
just need to make sure that whatever parts you replace are equal to what is being replaced. Lots of bad quality new parts out there.
My experience was similar to yours, dropping the IRS at similar mileage - I only fixed what I went in there for (hand brake pads) and just examined what I could deciding to leave well enough alone.
3 years later I dropped it again to swap the diff ratio and again resisted the urge to go further. That time the R&R went very quickly.
I did develop a slight wheel bearing noise 24,000 miles later but fortunately that was resolved with the IRS in situ.
I know (especially after the 2nd drop) that when everything has anti-seize and has not been over-tightened or bodged so I would rather take a chance of having to take it out again than roll the dice on whether replacement parts and work will actually be better than what is in there now.
Not really disagreeing with the notion of address everything while it is out - but can see both sides of the equation.
You will enjoy the taller gear ratio. I put a 3.07 in almost 15 yrs ago. IRS hasn’t been out since. Here’s what I did:
ALL new bearings& seals in the diff. The reason the IRS came out was the output shafts/flange bearings failed. On the 69’s this was a double row ball bearing. The bearing is NLA. I would give serious consideration to replacing those output flange assemblies with the tapered roller bearings style. IIRC I used XJS parts & put new bearings in. (Dick at CW can help with used parts)
Rebuild your brake calipers if there are any signs of leakage or if you have not been diligent with routine brake fluid changes. Same with E-brake. I would also renew all the universal joints if original. Replace all rubber cage mounts with high quality mounts. Same with radius arm bushings. Use Metalstik cage mounts and bushings if available. Shocks can be replaced w/o cage removal. Just make sure the upper shock bolts are installed in the correct direction to allow R&R. I did not find IRS cage R&R to be much fun. Didn’t want to do it again.
Should also add that if you dissemble the entire IRS the hubs are directional and must be installed accordingly. Failure to do so could/ will result in the KO’s coming loose leading to the wheel/s coming off.
One other thing you might consider ‘while you’re in there’ is a pair of remote bleeders.
Several approaches, all good and all much easier to do while the unit is out.
I went with the kit (s/s hoses) from XKs but some have fashioned their own using hard lines. I like that the hose kit can be routed so the bleeders are on the back side of the IRS cage and easily reached with the car on the ground.
If you’re asking me Andy - I bought a Dana 44 R&P and installed it in the original posi diff. Had to change the pinion flange to match the pinion splines too. Jeep offroad specialists can supply parts, although they gear in the opposite direction (3.7 / 4.1 /4.5 /etc.)
Dave
I’m going to be faced with the same issue on MIK this ‘spring’ as I need to replace the differential seal on the drivers side. I’m thinking that I will inspect every thing and replace only those things that need to be. Of course this is a car that has been well cared for during it’s life, had the car been neglected I would likely feel otherwise.
Cheers,
LLynn
In the old days, we would always go with Dana Spicer, made in the USA joints. Probably not available anymore or perhaps now made elsewhere as so many things.
Ordering best known brand is basically what I did but if you search you may find the thread where some one recommended “heavy duty truck” joints. Which post made me think I should have done that, so I mentioned it to you.