Local European shop found leaking water pump and valve gaskets leaking. Suggest fixing those before a compression test. My goal was to bring my XJS up to excellent shape. They say not to go any further until we get a compression test…but only after pump and gaskets are fixed. That’s $3,500, THEN extra for the test.
Question is: Can I get the compression test first (before fixing leaks and pump)?
Yes, get compression test first! If the engine has bad compression you might skip 3500 in work, scrap the car, sell the car, etc. If bad compression is a result of dropped valve seat, all effort to replace valve covers is done again!
If you’re talking about leaking cam covers and a water pump, $3500 sounds like too much money. You might consider shopping around, or better yet look into doing the work yourself. The cam cover gasket job isn’t difficult, although I recommend not following the ROM procedures; it’ll just leak again shortly. There are two schemes for sealing those cam covers once and for all, and I doubt if your shop is familiar with either of them.
The water pump job is a bit more involved, but still pretty straightforward. It’s basically just remove the old pump and install a rebuilt, refill the coolant system and done.
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Yeah, sounds like they’re trying to make some serious $$$ on you. Def do a compression test now to make sure you have a good engine.
If good, I would find another place and just get the water pump done. Cooling is important. I would guess that should be within $800 with labor?
You can live with the oil leaks for a while. I would then see how engine runs, and prioritize what needs fixing next. The Valve Cover leaks is a labor intensive job. How bad is it leaking? I’ve had some very minor oil leaks fix themselves once running a few oil changes through the system and fixing the PCV system.
Well, yeah, I guess, in that the gaskets and half moon seals don’t cost much. Getting the intake manifolds and fuel rail off in one piece takes what, an hour? Cam covers off in another half hour. If you have gortex gaskets and aluminum half moon seals ready, another two hours to put it all back together? Remembering to use upgraded bolts for the cam covers.
I’m going to have to go back to your book Kirby and refresh my memory. It’s been 13 years since mine were done . But I doubt if my Jaguar trained mechanic did anything different than ROM.
Those were the days when I first bought the car and gave my mechanic whatever he asked for. At least he had the decency to not wear a mask when I was being held up.
Wait a second you can’t even say that anymore.
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Apologies didn’t mean to hijack the post but yes get a compression test by a competent shop , and your mechanic does seem very expensive, if you don’t mind a few skinned knuckles and dirty hands you can do that work. Download Kirby’s book. I wish I knew it existed when I first bought my XJ-S.
Thanks everyone!
To be fair that price includes belts and a cooling system check.
They are the only big shop in town, so they charge a lot.
There is one other shop but I’ve had nothing but bad experience with them on my past 93 XJS 6 cylinder, and our Rang Rover Sport.
Took it to another place for gas leak and they messed it up.
IF I was only handy.
I’ll see if I can find someone to do the compression check and decide from there.
As always you all are the best.
Wish you all lived closer to Vegas.
Looks like they have it backwards!!! Good for them, not so much for you
Even living in the big city, I have had a difficult time finding a competent shop that didn’t charge through the nose.
I had one place use an impact wrench on the lug nuts. Found out a few months later when my brake rotors were warped. Now I always hand-torque when I get home.
I had one place change my transmission fluid. They did a drain/refill, but forgot to refill. Wondered why it was slipping on the way to work. Found out it was 2 quarts low.
One place said my camber was a bit off on alignment, but they got it fixed. I told them my car didn’t have adjustable camber.
My friend just had a master cylinder put in. When he went to drive it away, pedal went to the floor. They forgot to bleed the master cylinder.
This is why I’ve learned to do as much as I can by myself. Otherwise, I find an independent that has been around for at least 15 years. They usually charge $120/hour, but it’s worth it.
Amen Greg, ( what big city do you live in LOL)
You’re correct, I like your approach to the upgrades and fixes you’ve done to your XJ-S. you can come up North one day and crawl under my car any time.
P.S. make sure you bring your monkey wrench.
I’m actually getting annoyed with you guys. My car is running fine and you always remind me of one more thing to look at or improve.
I don’t think we’re ever done. I thought when I first bought an XJ-S I could impress my neighbours that I had arrived and could wave at them. Hey look at me I have a V-12 Jaguar.
But I found out over time it’s a lot more fun to tinker with them. My two cents.
WOW sounds like a comedy monologue …so funny
This car is perfect outside, interior, NO Rust, just not maintained much over the years.
After compression test, I just might have to dig in myself. I really want to keep this one.
They wanted 120.00 to change bonnet struts…even I can do that.
Gaskets are really leaking, and so is water pump, so have to do something.
Over heats when outside temp is over 100, which it is for 6 months here, so have to address the cooling problem, if engine is in good shape.
It’s simple enough: The OEM arrangement of a gasket over a rubber half moon seal will not seal reliably, because such a gasket must be compressed between two firm surfaces to seal. Tightening the cam cover bolts just pushes that area of the gasket down into the rubber, so it’ll quickly start leaking above the gasket at that point.
Solution 1: Leave out the gasket, assemble cam covers with OEM rubber half moon seal and apply sealant around the cam cover/tappet block joint. Will last until the rubber half moon seal rots, a pretty long time.
Solution 2: Assemble using a gasket – preferably the gortex type – and an aluminum half moon seal which will provide the necessary rigid surface for compressing the gasket.
https://www.ebay.ie/sch/jag-improver/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=
This will seal until the sun burns out.
Found a shop I have taken my BMW and Range Rover to for oil changes…light stuff. He has always said no to the XJS, but said a simple compression test is only a 2 hour deal, and for $220.00 seems ok. So, unless anyone disagrees, I’ll book it and see if I can save this beauty.
Thanks for all you advice.
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That is reasonable for 2 hours.
Make sure he knows that he’ll have to move A/C Compressor out of way, and remove Cruise Control and Throttle Pedestal to get to all 12 plugs. That’s one hour there. And when cranking, you have to somehow keep the throttle plates fully open (since the gas pedal won’t be connected with missing throttle pedestal) to get an accurate reading.
And make sure to disconnect relay in trunk for fuel pump, and of course main coil wire.
FYI, my numbers with a warm engine (160F) were 215-225. With a cold engine around 185-195.
That is reasonable for 2 hours.
Make sure he knows that he’ll have to move A/C Compressor out of way, and remove Cruise Control and Throttle Pedestal to get to all 12 plugs. That’s one hour there. And when cranking, you have to somehow keep the throttle plates fully open (since the gas pedal won’t be connected with missing throttle pedestal) to get an accurate reading.
And make sure to disconnect relay in trunk for fuel pump, and of course main coil wire.
FYI, my numbers with a warm engine (160F) were 215-225. With a cold engine around 185-195.
I will hand deliver this!
Thanks So much.
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How old are your plugs? If they are taking them all out to run a compression test, it would be a good chance to replace them for just the cost of the parts. I just got a local shop to change plugs and leads, charged for 3 hrs, but said it took them much longer. They were the ex-Jaguar dealership, with some of the original workshop guys still there, but I guess they’ve lost the knowledge of the old ways. I always ask for the old parts, and they were decent enough to have individually labelled the old plugs when they returned them. Some places still do a good job.
That’s a great suggestion. Good chance to get proper plugs in. I’ll ask them how plugs looked.
Plugs were changed August 2018, with wires…HOWEVER, never ran right after that. They could not smooth it out so I just left.
Are plugs in owners manual what you all use now days?
Champion RS9YC or NGK BR7EFS
Wires should be ok?
Plug leads only 3 years old should be fine. Either of those spark plugs should be OK. I went for the NGKs, as they were the same as the ones already fitted, and seemed a little easier to get hold of than the Champions - although I was looking for RS6YCC. Don’t be tempted by platinum plugs or other “high performance” options. They’re typically a waste of money and often perform worse.
NGK 2238 TR5 are the ones recommended in Kirby’s book and I think most of us run, including me.
You can buy them online for only $2 each.
And the most important thing, gap them to 0.025" (they’ll come pre-gapped at 0.035")
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