In reply to a message from Camelot sent Sun 26 May 2013:
Ok, I take a chance.
What is an accepted surface finish on the suspension and
steering bolts of the 150? They were ‘‘blackened’’ by factory as
far as I can see. Unfortunatly chemical blackening is not
realy an anti-corrosion treatment.
Painting? Phosphating? blackening and mat/clear coating? Or
better oing for zinc plating?–
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In reply to a message from Camelot sent Mon 27 May 2013:
If you are going to enter the car in championship division…then in
the words of the Jaguar heirarchy…I suggest you follow the
ORIGINAL finish…if that is black oxide…then black oxide it is!
anything else is non-original.–
The original message included these comments:
steering bolts of the 150? They were ‘‘blackened’’ by factory as
far as I can see. Unfortunatly chemical blackening is not
In reply to a message from godfrey sent Mon 27 May 2013:
No championship plans (I live in Europe anyway), but I would
like to do a proper job. I like originality.–
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In reply to a message from Camelot sent Sun 26 May 2013:
I experimented today with some methods of ‘‘blackening’’. I was
able to achieve the requested color a few different ways.
Although I still have the problem of the corrosion treatment.
Does any of You have experience with metal protective
transparent materials?–
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In reply to a message from Camelot sent Sun 26 May 2013:
I experimented today with some methods of ‘‘blackening’’. I was
able to achieve the requested color a few different ways.
Although I still have the problem of the corrosion treatment.
Does any of You have experience with metal protective
transparent materials?
In reply to a message from Camelot sent Tue 28 May 2013:
a drop of light oil usually does the trick for me. or if you are
not going to install them for a while get an old paint can and just
chuck them in when you are done the blackening process…I have one
with the notation ‘‘Ma Murrays’ pickled XKE’’ on the outside.she
makes great pickles!–
The original message included these comments:
Although I still have the problem of the corrosion treatment.
Does any of You have experience with metal protective
transparent materials?
In reply to a message from Camelot sent Thu 30 May 2013:
Just to muddy the waters further…you will probably discover,as I
did, that some of the bolts are in a red oxide finish. Best to
look carefully at what you have in front of you…decide for
yourself whether any have been replaced with generic ,using the
others as a comparison (for example if there are different
nuts/bolts from left to right on the equivalent part be suspicious)
and then move forward from there. split pins were generally silver
coloured, cad 1…maybe, outer steering joint nut…hmm unlikely,
probably just plain steel, grease nipples, plated yes! leaf spring
U bolts/nuts these are generally covered by the gaiters…but are
most likely painted black with black oxide nuts, (or do you mean
the U bolt that secures them to the rear axle?) in which case
definately as above. Best way to get rid of rust on bolts…COCA-
COLA in a bucket. one of the ingredients of Coke is phosphoric
acid…takes rust of bolts and other small items very well! Not sure
what you are referring to re crown nut under the front spring? Hope
this helps–
godfrey
pender island bc, Canada
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In reply to a message from godfrey sent Thu 30 May 2013:
Hi Godfrey,
Many thanks.
‘‘or do you mean the U bolt that secures them to the rear
axle?’’
Yes.
‘‘Not sure what you are referring to re crown nut under the
front spring?’’
I am refering to the washer under the big nut on the front
of the torsion spring. On the old factory pictures the shims
seems to be shiny.
Can You help with some info on the carburetter nuts also. I
would be gratefull. They are in awfull condition.
‘‘Best way to get rid of rust on bolts…COCA-COLA in a
bucket’’
Thats the second best thing. In my counry we have a long
established material (RO55) which is based on phosphoric
accid and is perfect for rusr removal/passivation.–
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In reply to a message from Camelot sent Thu 30 May 2013:
Hi there…can’t do much re the carb …the ones on my car are the
sand cast SUs so totally different. will have to check re the
washer–
godfrey
pender island bc, Canada
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In reply to a message from godfrey sent Thu 30 May 2013:
I’ve had good luick with black phosphate. If you casn cad (not
yellow cad) bright pieces 'd do it. JCNA has excluidd undercarriage
from judging but it still needs to be done well in all cases.