[concours] MK IV and SS Judging guide

Greetings to all;

While attempting to restore a MK IV RHD with the highest
degree of authenticity, finding original unmodified models
are certainly elusive.

Anyone fortunate at having obtained an original car(s) would
best know the answers to the questions below.

1:Original finish on body fasteners, specifically in the
engine compartment.
2: Original positions of fog lights. Close or away from rad.
3: Finish on seat tracks.
4: Fuel line finish
5: Photos of restored cars occasionally have additional
tailights over the rear bumper. Was this a factory option ?
such as bumper guards provided by dealers for the US market.

Thanks to anyone sharing their experience.
Popop–
popop
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In reply to a message from popop sent Sat 26 Jan 2013:

Hi there,

my Mark IV is one of the most original model today, I presume
unmodified.

You can look here:
http://www.saloondata.com/cars/detail/?car=430202

Within two months the car will be at my place, so then I can
answer your questions.

Regards

Mateusz–
fojbos
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In reply to a message from popop sent Sat 26 Jan 2013:

BTW … very good topic!–
fojbos
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In reply to a message from popop sent Sat 26 Jan 2013:

Finishes, which ones? There’a lot under there

But as a general rule less is better
No extra chrome fuel lines satin chromed

On SSs the fuel line from the tank to the pumps was black japanned.
I can’t say for sure about MK Ivs.

No stainless exhaust or engine pipes. Brass ex manifold nuts, Alloy
polished on rocker cover and water rail, not sump or bell housing.
Radiator , black paint
We put some matting agent in the 2 pack paint on these fitttings
as they weren’t painted a perfect gloss like panels
The aircleaners had a small transfer on each about oiling every
500 miles , I have repros.

Fog lights… FT 58s, position varied. In UK usually outboard, In
Aust inboard with curved mounts that moved them back [ away from
accidents]
Some US cars at least had them inboard but forward, The brackets
just turned around from UK position. Possibly it depended on local
regulations on spacing.
Restored car often have extra lights for flashers
Some use shocking examples from Trailers-R-Us. More tasteful is
the period Lucas sidelamps from the time as used on Morrises etc.
Painted black and the lenses painted with stained glass paint…
discrete

MG sell double filament internals for the parklamps so they can
flash. The guillotine is recommended for owners who screw big
modern lamps to the front mudguards for flashers. Unbelievable I
know, but some do.

Seat runners . chromed.

The inside of the tail lamp number plate frame compartment. White.

Laether only used on seats and armrests [ and gear lever and pedal
boots , Rexine for door trims… the correct exact material is still
available from book binders. it is different to that on Mk v
onwards. Nver more than original padding as you’ll have trouble
with escutcheons.

Bear in mind there were changes to the cars over their short run.

Most UK cars , SS and Mk IV , all cars with flat windscreens, had
Raydot tax disc holders on the windscreen , shown in parts book.
Very nice.

Interior woodwork French Plank walnut … NOT burr walnut.–
The original message included these comments:

While attempting to restore a MK IV RHD with the highest
degree of authenticity, finding original unmodified models
are certainly elusive.
Anyone fortunate at having obtained an original car(s) would
best know the answers to the questions below.
1:Original finish on body fasteners, specifically in the
engine compartment.
2: Original positions of fog lights. Close or away from rad.
3: Finish on seat tracks.
4: Fuel line finish
5: Photos of restored cars occasionally have additional


Ed Nantes SS
Melbourne, Australia
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–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

In reply to a message from Ed Nantes sent Thu 7 Feb 2013:

Thanks to all for your priceless information.

Without some kind of authenticity guide,(and guidance from
you), many original details of these fine pre-XKs will
eventually disappear and be replaced with contemporary
substitutes.

Perhaps an information spread sheet of specific finishes and
materials would compliment the factory parts manual.

Regards to all,
Daniel–
popop
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If anyone is serious about writing an SS and MK IV judges guide, I can send
them an out line for another judges guide I am working on.

Steve Kennedy
Denver
@Steve_Kennedy

In reply to a message from Steve Kennedy sent Fri 15 Feb 2013:

Steve,

An outline would be welcomed, as I would be interested in
contributing information specifically for MK IV & Vs LHD.

Perhaps If a few owners were to work collectively, this
project could become a working tool very quickly.

Regards,
Daniel–
The original message included these comments:

If anyone is serious about writing an SS and MK IV judges guide, I can send


popop
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Daniel,
Please contact me off line.

Steve Kennedy
skennedy@jcna.com-----Original Message-----
From: owner-concours@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-concours@jag-lovers.org]
On Behalf Of popop
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2013 5:02 AM
To: concours@jag-lovers.org
Subject: Re: [concours] RE: MK IV and SS Judging guide

In reply to a message from Steve Kennedy sent Fri 15 Feb 2013:

Steve,

An outline would be welcomed, as I would be interested in
contributing information specifically for MK IV & Vs LHD.

Perhaps If a few owners were to work collectively, this
project could become a working tool very quickly.

Regards,
Daniel

The original message included these comments:

If anyone is serious about writing an SS and MK IV judges guide, I can
send


popop
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

In reply to a message from Steve Kennedy sent Sun 17 Feb 2013:

Hi,can anyone give me few pointers,I have been asked to manufacture
a complete exhaust system for an original ss 100,my thoughts are to
make it with inconel,which does not require flexible joints,and
ceramic coat it to as near the original metal shade as possible,any
help on this would be most welcome.–
eccossejag
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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Contact Terry Larson in Mesa, Arizona.

Len Wheeler
Tucson----- Original Message -----
From: “eccossejag” stewart944@hotmail.com
To: concours@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2013 4:07 PM
Subject: RE: [concours] RE: MK IV and SS Judging guide

In reply to a message from Steve Kennedy sent Sun 17 Feb 2013:

Hi,can anyone give me few pointers,I have been asked to manufacture
a complete exhaust system for an original ss 100,my thoughts are to
make it with inconel,which does not require flexible joints,and
ceramic coat it to as near the original metal shade as possible,any
help on this would be most welcome.

eccossejag
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

In reply to a message from eccossejag sent Sun 17 Feb 2013:

The S100 system is unusual

You don’t mention whether it is an early car with a single
manifold and system , or the later twin system.

However generally…

The exhaust manifold[s] were never finished in vitreous enamel
like XKs.
I generally find that hi temp ex paint works well and can be kept
looking good with stove polish. [ made for wood fire stoves]

Nuts always brass [ bronze]. To be really picky they should have
correct Whit sized hexes , nuts sold now usually have smaller AF
head sizes.
The pipes were mild steel not stainless. They can also be painted
with hi temp ex paint
The engines pipes are sand bent NOT muffler shop style with
straights and bends that crush the inside of each bend. Owners who
do this should be taken behind the judges tent and ritually
disembowelled

The really odd parts are the pipes.
To gain extra clearance the pipes were pressed into a ‘’ D ’
profile, the flat at the bottom
The Mufflers were oval , made with the pipes entering at the
very botton edge of the end
Normally mufflers have teh pipe entering in the centre, but this
design likewise gave a little more ground clearance.

The system was hard mounted to the chassis so didn’t need rubber
mounts . Remember the engien itself is hard mounted to the chassis

If one feels a need to use flex , don’t use stainless flex
The flex should be brazed not MIG welded. Brazing stainless is
difficult without ’ burning’ the stainless. Brazing means that when
the flex wears it can have the braze melted away and new flex
installed . MIG welded is cut off meaning ever longer peieces of
flex being needed.

The rear outlet[s] of the ex pipe are pressed into a flat top and
bottom oval.
This is not that hard to do We got some 1’’ steel bar that would
fit into an 1 3/4 ‘’ pipe and pressed the pipe flat onto it.
Without the inner piece of steel the tube will crush to a figure 8.–
Ed Nantes SS
Melbourne, Australia
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