I’ve had success with heating items like this in a gas bbq; gas torch heat is too localised, whereas the bbq heats the whole piece. Might still need the press, but it will help.
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Agreed: propane torches are useless for this kinda work.
Balzer, get an oxyacetylene set-up, and we’ll have a lesson!
Good job ski racer that’s the way
Hi Craig,
If that bolt is tight and you apply a lot of pressure, there is a chance of bending the Lower Front Lever using the setup shown in your pictures.
You should support the assembly as shown in Doug’s sketch, which is the way I described the arrangement in my first Post. Use a socket that fits the bolt head, as there is not much bearing surface on the face of the diagonal brace. You won’t be able to press the bolt very far with an arrangement using a socket; only the axial movement allowed by the internal length of the part of the socket that fit the bolt head. However, you don’t have to move it much, just enough to get it moving and be able to apply some penetrating fluid to the part of the bolt exposed by the press operation. Then press it back the other way to carry some of the penetrating fluid back into the bore. Do this a couple of times, increasing the length of press and before you know it, you will be able to rotate the bolt with a spanner and turn it out, or arrange a longer device to support the assembly and continue to press it out.
Also suggested in my first and most recent previous Post, if the bolt is not to be saved, cut it off close to the face of the Lower Front Lever so that you have less to either press out or wind out with a spanner.
Yes, I received your email. I’ll pack the Upper Wishbones today and get a price on the shipping.
Regards,
Brent
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. . . and the 2x bolts that I’ll be cutting to ease extraction.
Craig
As I admitted previously, I am NOT a mechanic and can be slow the uptake on occasion, so
Just double checking something -
I have been anal compulsively and with the best OCD labeling skills, wire tagging all the components of the upper and lower suspension as I disassemble them for nickel plating.
But WAIT!
I just noticed that on the lower wishbones, with the exception of the Torsion Bar Cam Lever (C32018/32019), all the other bits can go on the driver side OR the passenger side without issue? They are interchangeable? Fight?
The upper wishbone is much simpler - since I am buying replacements from Brent, the replacement upper wishbones (which are handed) must go on the driver/passenger side of the car; everything else is interchangeable – right?
On the uprights, obviously the Vertical Links are handed as well as the hubs.
Or - do I need to track these items cuz they (like torsions bars) have taken a set and need to go where they came from??
Hello Craig,
Unlike S1/S2 cars, where the Front, Lower Wishbone Lever is handed, the components of the S3 Lower Wishbone are ambidextrous.
Regards,
Brent
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Yep, cut those off flush and press them out. You run the risk of the long bolt column buckling under compression and the stored energy causing damage to your fixture and parts.
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Time for some happy snaps (AKA automotive porn)
Received two parcels yesterday - one from SNG Barratt and the other from Cool Cat (you know where this is going)
Barratt sent several items I needed/wanted to finish up/continue the restoration of my V12.
Here is my original license plate lamp ass’y
Looks to need some TLC; doesn’t look like it will reflect much light, even after I replace the incandescent bulbs with LEDs. Just not worth the effort
This ought to work much better.
Just noticed the leads on the original come out the top of the lamp assembly whereas on the replacement they come out the back. Don’t know if that will be an issue
EDIT - the other difference is that the original had two small apertures with a clear plastic lens on the wall through which the wires pass. The new/replacement assembly has no such feature.
,
,
Here’s the money shot. I know others have posted / bragged on / admired the artistry that is the Cool Cat radiator.
But this one is mine
Overview:
.
Close up of Driver’s Upper Radiator Hose connection
,
Close up of Passenger’s Upper Radiator Hose connection and corner
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The rad looks great - I ordered mine yesterday.
Robert – you will NOT be disappointed!
The radiator comes in a double wall cardboard box (or one cardboard box nested inside the other) with each corner protected by 2-3" thick Styrofoam blocks.
I believe it impossible for the fins / radiator to be damaged.
Craig
Hello Craig,
Price for shipping is as follows for the 2 x Upper Wishbones, 2 x Front Stub Axles and 2 x Front Shock Absorber bottom bolts:
Ordinary Post = AUD126.72 = USD85.60
Express Post = AUD143.22 = USD96.75
AUD1,000.00 insurance = AUD36.00 = USD 24.32
Best regards,
Bill
Thanks Brent
I would like to do these:
- Express Post = AUD143.22 = USD96.75
- AUD1,000.00 insurance = AUD36.00 = USD 24.32
Given that I have chosen these options, what is the total cost and how do I pay?
Craig
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I would estimate that 98+% of the replacement items on my Series III came from SNG Barratt.
I haven’t installed many of them just yet - just turned the corner off of Taking-Things-Off Avenue and am now on Putting-Things-Back-On Boulevard.
Did just that yesterday - installed the new Terminal Post (the white disc at two o’clock in the center-ish below
However, this photo IDs a relatively key issue:
WTF?!?
I emailed Jeremy at Barratt to learn more – and will share when he responds – but this is very strange.
I checked the new hardware with two different 1/2" wrenches - NO JOY.
I carefully tried to put on the 1/2" nut from my original - NO JOY.
This is a metric fitting for a Jaguar E-Type.
Going back to the top image.
You’ll note a thick yellow jumper that a mechanic added years ago to obviously help with getting a good ground. I have sourced an all-metal variant (albeit a bit long).
This ground strap would be fastened to a frame mounting bolt and the other to the top center of the bonnet latch pivot arm. My guess is it may have been needed as the car was aging and dirt/grease/crap started reducing the efficiency of original ground straps.
At this point, I have pretty eliminated all dirt/grease/crap.
- Do I need it?
- Forgeddaboudit - the Jag engineers got it right and I don’t need this crutch any more.
Yes - keeping it is a good idea. The horns, which pull a very high current, are earthed to the picture frame. The circuit has to reach the chassis and then return to the battery negative without resistance.
kind regards
Marek
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Hello Craig,
Bill here, in charge of Brent’s email whilst he is out of town.
I read your comments, via the truncated version of the JL’s website that I’m able to read, but not reply to, about the spanner size for the Positive Post for power supply to the electrical circuit of the car. The Thread will be Whitworth and therefore, a 1/4 Whitworth Spanner will be correct. If you measure the AF of the nut, you will find it to be circa 13.34mm (circa 0.012" above 13mm), which means that you will normally be able to get a 13mm spanner to fit, leading you to think that you have metric fittings being used on your otherwise Imperial fitment car. But no, no metric fitting being used here. A 1/2" AF is 12.7mm, therefore, 0.64mm smaller than the AF of the nut and the clear reason why the 1/2 spanner won’t fit
Regards,
Bill
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Bill, it’s great to see you back on the board! You’ve been missed.
Bill – well that explains every thing.
I never – in a million years – would have figured that out. I equated Whitworth to a few random carb and transmission bits. Never – NEVER – the Terminal Post.
Thanx – I’ll be able to sleep tonight!
Craig
PS — now a sad, sad confession: the reason I needed to get a new one was that I buggered up the threads on one end of the original one when trying to fit a new 1/2" SAE nut on to it – it ~nearly fit~.
(You can see it laying there in the bottom of the photo.) Aside from being yellowed with age, it was a perfectly fine Terminal Post. And then I tried to make it better 
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MarekH – thanks for he prompt reply.
It’s settled – it stays
Craig
And…THAT’S how one becomes a grizzled old mechanic!
