My Jag is the first/main patient. another year and I oughtta be able to call it done.
Then a 65 Riviera Gran Sport (425 nail head engine w/ 2x 4-bbls AFBs) needs some mechanical attention.
If I can afford it without selling the T-Bird, get a 1970-71 Buick Gran Sport Stage 1 – photo from
from the 'net
Wanted to close out an issue @angelw spotted at the end of Part XII:
and then @skiracer
So I removed the four bolts on each motor mount, removed the 2x washers on each bolt and refastened them to the frame
The lower pair of bolts go through an additional section of metal that surrounds the through hole (bracing for additional strength??). The bolts poke through with 1.5 - 2 threads showing.
Thanks Bill and Doug for the safety catch.
I like your Detroit metal collection too. The old generation Rivieras were really nice cars. There are moments when I am nostalgic about finding parts in junkyards and flea markets like normal car people, rather than waiting forever for aftermarket parts to arrive from the UK. But I went single-brand Jaguar a long time ago and there is no turning back now. When you start putting wrenches to the Riviera, be sure to keep your shipwright’s disease under tight control.
Reading this site has convinced me that work on an old Jaguar is never really “done.” I do not assume that when I finally connect the battery, fill the fluids and turn the key that everything will magically work, do you? Even modern factories have a test and rework process after cars roll off the assembly line, and they are not dealing with crappy aftermarket parts installed by amateur mechanics. 
I’m probably totally wrong here, but shouldn’t the washer go beneath the item that turns, ie the nut? In a perfect world, you hold the bolt and turn the nut ?
Looking for guidance before purchasing a Brake Line Set for my Series III, or preferentially, comments for anyone who has used one of these kits.
Both seem complete and to my eye identical, both ads specifies original material, and both are priced the same – that is until the Terry’s set just went on sale:.
Comments?
Experiences?
“Made in Original Equipment Material. Superior Pre shaped and ready to fit.”
Less expensive and supports one of our Jaguar spares suppliers. No brainer IMO. I have NOT fitted this set for obvious reasons… 
I am Screwed.
Royally SCREWED.
Twice.
(1) Was working under my Jag on my lift. On Wednesday. Went to lower it for the day.
NO JOY. It will not lower. The lever that connects to the cables that release the safety catch does not release the safety catches. I can’t lower my car. At all
I called the team that did the installation two years ago to make a service call. If I have diagnosed the issue correctly, they made the same correction (took slack out if the cable/lever connection) just 2-3 months ago, so this one may not cost the $150 service call fee.
It’s 1600 on Friday – they won’t be here until Monday - soonest.
But that ranks as just an irritation. There is plenty to do around here without getting into / climbing around the car (without a ladder).
BUT
(2) today I was finishing the torqueing the head bolts. I had torqued all of them on the passenger side (14x 11/16" acorns and 12x 9/16" smaller studs along the outer perimeter of the head. All went swimmingly
Then turned my attention to the driver side. Torqued all 14x 11/16" acorns and was doing the smaller 9/16" studs. On the third of the 12x studs, the nut wouldn’t tighten. I hoped it was just a loose stud. So, I double nutted it and very carefully turned the nuts to tighten the stud . . . with fingers crossed.
NO JOY!
So I loosened it (very carefully) to this point . . .
Can that be done with ~just~ the offending head removed or am I looking a taking it down to a short block (again)?
Should I continue torqueing the last 8-9 studs in search of another bad stud?? These smaller studs only take 27.5 lb/ft (the larger acorn-headed studs are torqued to 52 lb/ft).
Nope… that can be done by just removing a single head.
Abso-tucken-footely!
@Craig_Balzer, check your phone texts.
Craig
First, I am sorry you are having that setback. Second, it sent chills up my spine knowing that the same thing could happen to me in the next couple of months.
Rod
Craig
I don’t know your lift setup, but on my BendPak the safety catch releases operate with compressed air and if the lift is down on the safety latches it needs to go up a bit before you can apply the air pressure to release the latches and bring it down. I figure there is only a remote chance that this might be helpful information, but thought I would offer it anyhow.
Rod
I appreciate the time and thought but my lift is controlled with cables activated via a lever.
To lower my lift whether it is on the top safety catch or lowest, I must lift the car a few inches (1-2) to clear the catch, them the lever can be fully depressed and allow me to lower the car.
I have tried several times to raise the car a bit to get it down - NO JOY.
Murphy follows us both around. It is at least a relief to know I am not the only one. Fear of mistakes is making me so gun-shy I now have to consult on the simplest stuff. Just last night I asked a friend about differences in charging procedure for a positive ground system on my XK-140. He had to say you idiot (he just thought that part, was kind enough to not say it), it is the car that is backwards, the battery doesn’t know the difference. How embarrassing.
My way-forward for tomorrow’s work is:
Stay tuned - more to follow
Craig,
The bad stud — is the block threads stripped? If the aluminum threads are stripped the only real fix is to insert a Time Sert thread repair… Heli-coil’s will not be up to the job for head bolts! Time Serts are more expensive but do the job once, do it correctly and you won’t have issues down the road!
Installing Time Serts is also best left to a competent machine shop IMHO.
Happy Trails,
Dick
I second the Time Sert recommendation if possible. The time Serts were the only inserts that would survive (for a while at least) the extremely high loads we put through them during vibration and shock testing of parts/systems.
Wow, Craig,
That is about the least destructive terrible thing that could happen though. And… Friday afternoon shows us all that Murphy is still here, as usual.
Hope it gets properly fixed Monday.
LLoyd
I’m suspicious of people who don’t like dogs.
But I trust dogs who don’t like people.
Thanks all – I appreciate the thoughts and commiserations.
This morning I moved forward cautiously. I set out to torque the remaining studs to see what other surprises await.
BACK STORY - a week ago I had torqued the 28 large studs with acorn nuts (14 to a head) to the 52 lb/ft spec. I did it in three steps: 20, 40, and then 52 lb/ft, walking up to the final spec.
No Problems
Yesterday I completed the torqueing procedure by doing the small studs - their spec is 27.5 lb/ft. Being such a low value, I set my torque wrench to 27.5.
The first head went very well - all were torqued to spec. It was when doing the second head when my little disaster occurred
TODAY - given the above problem I set out to move v-e-r-y carefully.
I had 8 small studs still to torque. I stepped into the torque value with 15 then 20 and finally 27.5 lb/ft.
All but one took the torque - and of course it is adjacent to yesterday’s bad stud. It felt odd even at 15 lb/ft.; I then used a hand wrench and very gingerly applied torque - it felt spongy. I stopped.
The 1 (or2?) bad studs are on the outboard edge of the head. Looking at the head from the side with the front of the block to the left and using (G)ood, X=Replace, and (B)ad? for the 6 studs:
G - G - G - X - B - G.
Some Good News: A time-sert will be possible. This photos is of the repaired stud hole from when I bent six studs removing a head. These two new issues are on the outside rail of the block.
Yes… once the head is removed.
Craig,
Bottom line… Did the block threads pull out as the stud was torqued? If so you’re gonna have to bite the bullet and do a proper repair before advancing the build-up. Work best left to a proper machine shop IMHO.
A minor setback but found before the build-up was completed and the engine installed. Be glad for that.
Happy Trails (soon),
Dick
In a message dated 4/29/2023 3:25:51 PM Eastern Standard Time, noreply@jag-lovers.com writes:
