Crushed oil filter

Hi I recently took off the oil filter housing on my 2.5 and found that the filter had been crushed, not sure how this has happened, this is the first time it has been off since I acquired the car, probably mis - alignment when replacing it, but is seems a bit severe to me, additionally I believe there should be a seal between the canister and the body of the oil filter housing but this is missing
looking into where the pressure adjustment arrangement is there is a rough cut out section below the adjuster that does not look like it was machined out, can anybody confirm whether there is something amiss or not ? and how would the oil filter element get crushed so severely ?

Wrong filter, too long?

The filter cartridge is too long. That top plate is spring loaded and slides back into the body as the canister is tightened. I don’t know if this canister is the right one and it just gave up holding the spring plate back, or whether it is the wrong part. Replacing with the right part should fix the problem. I’m not clear on your other comment about the problem with the pressure relief area of the body.

It looks to me like your canister seal is in there, but old and compressed.
The new square seal is industrial size #337 or McMaster-Carr 4061T313, $19 for a pack of 25.

The inside of the filter head is as-cast aluminum, no machine cutting in there.

For a filter you can use Fram CH801BPL, also used on Mark 1 and XK150.

Is the bottom of your canister crunched from overtightening?

Hi Rob
Thanks for the info, no the bottom of the canister is not crushed and I measured the new filter I have against the good side of the crushed one and it is the same size in height, this is what is strange to me, if it were the wrong size surely somebody would have felt it when tightening up the bolt, seems strange to me that one side of the oil filter is crushed and not the other
The old filter has a perorated surround around it also, which is not with the new one
everything with a vintage car restoration is one step forward and one step backwards but I am making progress slowly,

Had same issue- my conclusion at time was the spring loaded plate must have been stuck. Does the filter work with oil from outside to in or vice versa?

Hi Not sure how I would know that ?

The flow is outside to inside of the filter element.
D to E (this is from a 3.5 L Mark V)

Oil comes up from the pump to A

Filtered oil flows out B to the side oil galleries, which supply the main bearings.

The external bypass valve C & G opens when the oil pump is putting out more than the main bearings can take. Then the excess oil dumps back into the sump through C to a hole in the block.

There is also a small internal bypass valve F which opens when the filter element is clogged up, permitting unfiltered oil to flow up to B and into the side oil galleries, so the bearings get supplied even if you don’t ever change the filter.

As may well have been the situation with my '38 SS when it came to me.

There was clean oil in the sump, but I think I heard it crying “Change me!”.
The canister bolt was REALLY tight. I had to remove the head and put it in a bench vise.
I found black GOO in there.

Thanks for the info, its good to know, I’ve never seen a filter that bad !

So theoretically a high pump pressure, a blocked filter with a low internal pressure could cause an implosion?
Currently using the fully disposable type as sold by Worcester spares

No, the bypass valve F is supposed to prevent that.

My '38 SS has a smaller filter canister than for the Mark IV and V.
I use a Wix filter #57062, same as used on Dodge, Freightliner and Mercedes Sprinter vans and Jeep Grand Cherokee.