Has anyone got any pics on what is the best way to lift a
Daimler 2.5 V8?–
Sid513
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In reply to a message from Sid513 sent Sun 24 Jul 2011:
I have just done this , and found after some experimentation that
the best thing to do was to bolt 2 mild steel brackets to one front
facing bolt of the cylinder head on one side, and one rear facing
bolt of the cylinder head on the opposite side. I then attached a
lifting beam with a screw type fore/aft adjustment to the brackets
( available form eg machine Mart in the UK and Clarke Tools in the
US) , and lifted via this beam with an hydraulic engine crane.
The ‘‘angle of dangle’’ can then be adjusted quite minutely with the
screw thread irrespective of whether or not the gearbox is attached–
christopher storey
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Sounds good. Just put a rope around the whole engine when I did it last, but I did it outside so had infinite headroom.
Roger Holmes.On 24 Jul 2011, at 19:12, christopher storey wrote:
In reply to a message from Sid513 sent Sun 24 Jul 2011:
I have just done this , and found after some experimentation that
the best thing to do was to bolt 2 mild steel brackets to one front
facing bolt of the cylinder head on one side, and one rear facing
bolt of the cylinder head on the opposite side. I then attached a
lifting beam with a screw type fore/aft adjustment to the brackets
( available form eg machine Mart in the UK and Clarke Tools in the
US) , and lifted via this beam with an hydraulic engine crane.
The ‘‘angle of dangle’’ can then be adjusted quite minutely with the
screw thread irrespective of whether or not the gearbox is attachedchristopher storey
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In reply to a message from Roger Holmes sent Mon 25 Jul 2011:
Roger : did you split the engine from the gearbox, or lift both
together?–
The original message included these comments:
Sounds good. Just put a rope around the whole engine when I did it last, but I did it outside so had infinite headroom.
–
christopher storey
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It was the combined units. I think we may have dropped the front suspension a bit as well come to think of it. I think this allows a bit more room for the big bulge at one end of the sump. The back end I think. If I remember correctly the bolts on the suspension had one more turn available so everything stayed lined up and we did not need to bleed the brakes or anything like that. Even the AdWest power steering unit stayed in place and there was enough slack in the pipes to it.
Watch out for the big spring at the back of the gearbox when you remove the gearbox, it hurts.
Roger Holmes
'69 V8-250On 26 Jul 2011, at 07:48, christopher storey wrote:
In reply to a message from Roger Holmes sent Mon 25 Jul 2011:
Roger : did you split the engine from the gearbox, or lift both
together?The original message included these comments:
Sounds good. Just put a rope around the whole engine when I did it last, but I did it outside so had infinite headroom.
–
christopher storey
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In reply to a message from Roger Holmes sent Tue 26 Jul 2011:
For those interested in this topic, I now have some answers, having
done the job, which may help others.
DO’s
Remove any car ramp etc from beneath the car
Remove front bumper, which gives more fore/aft clearance for the
crane
Remove centre stabiliser fixing bracket from the top of the
bellhousing
Remove Distributor
Remove carburetters
Remove OD solenoid
Remove servo air valve ( very vulnerable )
Get someone to guide the rear of the box and OD with a rope
Tilt engine and box to a maximum tail down position if the
subframe etc is still present - I needed about 70 degrees tail down
once the whole apparatus was over the aperture to achieve clearance
PROBABLE HELPS
Remove front subframe and roll bar : I found the crucial squeeze
is caused by the very limited diagonal distance between the
crossmember/antiroll bar and the throttle slave cross shaft on the
front of the bulkhead ( which I managed to bend) . Removal of the
subframe etc eliminates these hangup points
DON’T BOTHER WITH
Taking front wheels off to lower the front
Raising the rear wheels
Raising the front wheels–
christopher storey
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