Decided to do the oil cooler delete

Vee, I bet you’re thinking about V12, ain’t ya’?
Have you ever had a conversation with the owner of ultra-low emission car owner? All those tiny, cheap run-arounders last 40-50k miles, then failing mechanically or on the same ultra-low emissions mentioned above.
Maybe go for something from sport class - like new Audi TT. Have we got any owners here? How’s the joy from riding it?
Vee, where did you get that statement from? You’re a car dealer?

I’m sure they exist just like engines failing after a few miles still exist. Find me a modern v12?

Mazdas Skyactiv X could be one, then there’s different hybrid systems, what about Koenigseggs pneumatic valvetrain?

New Audi TT is fun but someone crashed into my neighbors so it didn’t make near 200k…

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Hybrid car history goes back to 1890, where Porsche got an idea that it could work - reheated these days. Regardless of innovation used, Mazda haven’t changed the world or impacted everyone. Please try again.

You want a new technology that has transformed the entire market within twelve years? Pointless - try again.

There’s electrics but boy that idea is centuries old

Also, name me earlier breakthroughs.

Naah, just technology that someone apart from Mazda owner heard about… Hay you ever heard about marketing? It’s similar in age to the hybrid car idea…

Going back to the topic, oil will last in high temperature, however same increased temperature is i killer for the engine assembly. Having the oil cooler was somehow implemented by safety in design. Top of your engine is cooled by radiator, bottom - by oil cooler…

I’m not a mazda owner, I know if there’s an engine design in production that runs both spark and compression ignition which makes it a lot more efficient.

Sounds like you want a Wankel engine type of change but one that has actually caught on. Nope

Or how about the turbine car? Chrysler, Rover tried that. Did it catch on… nope

So i found and ordered a complete intake manifold on ebay for $95 shipped from California! I figured id then have some spare parts laying around lol. Also i pulled my oil pressure switch and its leaking around the plastic, so i bought a new one. Hope to have her up and running by the middle of the week!

Oh and to add another thing to debate on…I use Rotella T6 diesel oil in my jags! They say it has more additives that make it more suitable for engines that were designed to use conventional oil!

LET THE DEBATING BEGIN! :grin::grin::grin::grin::grin::grin::grin:

Failures of the reciprocating parts of the engine are virtually always due to lack of lubrication. The rods, crank, bearings, etc really don’t know or care if the oil is 150ºF or 250ºF or 300ºF. They know and care if they are not being lubricated.

Conventional motor oils, broadly, breakdown at about 275ºF. Synthetics about 300ºF or sometimes as high as about 350ºF.

If you keep oil temps below breakdown point that’s as good as it gets. There’s no advantage in seeking or achieving the coolest possible oil temperatures. To the contrary, too-cool oil can be a disadvantage as the inevitable moisture will never burn off…which results in under-performing oil. That’s why the oil manufacturers recommend 230ºF-250ºF as an ideal range.

In anticipation of much gentler driving, V12 cars going to the USA were equipped with the by-pass oil cooling system to reduce the cooling.

Cheers
DD

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If you’re happy, I’m happy :slight_smile:

Cheers
DD

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Really??? Not liters/quarts?

Both my Hyundais: in excess of 200,000 miles.
My wife’s 'O8 Honda Civic-- by 2015–300,000 miles.

Modern engines last longer, with very few exceptions.

I’ve known/worked on numerous 1990s-2000s Hondas and Toyotas with 250k-300k miles and they were still purring like tomcats in a dairy :slight_smile:

Cheers
DD

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My 98 7.4L Suburban will turn over 300k tomorrow.
My 98 5.7L C1500 is at 247k.

I don’t think either is particularly remarkable. I make sure they don’t overheat and change the oil about every 4k miles.

In case someone thinks I am a GM fanboy, my dad has had multiple big and small block Fords from 96 to 2015 go well over 200k.

Update one day later. It was raining pretty good when it rolled over 300, so I missed the actual moment. But here it is:


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All cars mentioned are either 5+ years old or based on proven design (big block/small block). I meant something modern (younger) - “meeting” these days hipocregulations. And yes, Japanese cars up to 2010ish are bullet-proof. Toyotas and Hondas apart from these made in Europe should be excluded from this contest in general…

So the 200k+ mile cars must be younger than 5 years and must not be a honda or toyota unless made in Europe?

If there are any these will still work because I can’t see how you get this amount of mileage by driving normally. And long distance is easy on any engine.

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That moves the goalposts from your original question…

Many did, and you didn’t like the answers.

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Are any any of these mechanical failures known to be caused by excessive oil temperature and/or lack of an oil cooler?

Just trying to swing back to the topic of oil coolers :slight_smile:

Cheers
DD

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Given that Jaguar themselves thought it was a good idea, and given the fact that the sump does not contain the massive nine quarts like an E Type, II went ahead and used the stock series 3 XJ6 oil cooler on the Jeepster.

Does that count? :slight_smile:

Sure !

More later!

Cheers
DD

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Hey, I’m just trying to get the conversation going, it’s kinda boring here lately…