Hello All, I am hoping someone can look over my shoulder and check my work before I make a huge error that results in the new wiring harness being welded in place. I have a negative ground 1966 LHD Series 1 that left the factory in October 1965. The PO had installed a Delco-Remy alternator from a 1965 GTO. I am putting in a new WOSP starter. I have mounted a Hella ground interrupt switch.
I’ll have a 1 gauge cable going from the negative side of the battery to the ground interrupt switch, and a 1 gauge cable going from the ground interrupt switch to the mounting bolt of the starter motor.
On the right-hand side of the terminal post I’ll have (i) the two N wires, (ii) the cable going to the starter (C24497) and (iii) a cable going to the Bat post on the alternator. What gauge wire should go from the terminal post to the alternator? I have enough 1 gauge cable to do the job. Overkill?
Am I correct to splice together the NP and NG wires shown in this picture. What to do with the B wire?
I will give this a try, but I am not sure I understand all that is going on.
Your negative interrupt looks okay.
Wire from Alternator positive to battery. 1 gauge may work, but it seems excessive.
This is where I have questions. I have not seen that alternator in years, but it appears to be one that needs and external voltage regulator. If it is from a 1965 GTO, I assume it needs an external voltage regulator. I see no voltage regulator in your diagram. Are you using one or am I incorrect?
The Dick Russ article I saw uses an alternator with an internal regulator.
Tom
Tom, Thanks for the response. I sent an email to the guy who rebuilt the alternator. He just replied and your intuition was on the mark - it is an externally regulated unit.
So, I think I’m back to using the original wiring diagram (to include the voltage regulator) and wiring the Delco alternator as the following:
NW to alternator BAT
Alternator GRD to ground
NG to alternator R.
NP to alternator F.
This at least makes sense to me - but, I could still be wrong. I’d welcome any thoughts…
No, that will not work. Let me see if I can find some details, unless of course some one else already has them. But before I do that, are you sure you would not rather install an alternator with an internal regulator, 10 si or similar? You already are not stock, and you will probably need a delco style regulator to match what you have.
Tom
That is helpful info. I’m building a driver so I’m not wed to the alternator I have in hand. I’ll explore finding a delco style regulator - and regroup. Thanks for the help!
So some bad news here. You have a good alternator and a good voltage regulator, but they won’t play together. The Lucas regulator is what’s called an “A” circuit regulator…it controls ground to the alternator field. The Pontiac alternator is a “B” circuit alternator. It requires a regulator that controls field power, and the field is grounded internally. The two won’t play together. You could use the Pontiac regulator, but it’s a nasty electromechanical beastie.
The “R” contact on the alternator has nothing to do with the voltage regulator. R stands for “relay”, and it’s intended to turn off an indicator light, so it is compatible with your “AL” lead.
First, +1 on the WOSP starter. Not everyone will agree as it “sounds” different, but it is so much easier to handle.
As to the alternator Angus, for my money’s worth I’d dump the alternator you have and go with an internally regulated alternator. It makes the wiring easier and tidier. You’ll be happier by not using an old school regulator with electro-mechanical components and it appears you need either a new regulator or a different alternator. The alternator for the GTO was, I believe a DE-10DN family and produced something like 42 amps? Take a look at the CS-130 Delco. The CS-130 family from Delco is 2 generations newer than the GTO’s alternator and it is quieter mechanically and electrically and can be found with an output of 60 amps to over 100 amps. So that raises a question. Are you anticipating installing air conditioning now or some time in the future? If so, it may be better to get an alternator that produces 55 amps or better.
I did the alternator on my S1 FHC last summer. Here’s a link: Alternator: best choice for a Series 1 - #84 by ScotThompson
The thread got a little lengthy, but it may be worth your reading it. Also I investigated fan belt choices and found some surprising information.
The 1 gauge wire is, IMO, inappropriate to connect the BAT from the alternator to the Terminal Post. An 8 ga would be a good choice or, most likely a 10 ga would be sufficient. If you decide about the A/C question and come up with a current output for the alternator, I can run the numbers for you.
Thanks, y’all. Based on Tom’s comments and then confirmed by Michael, I’d started down the path of a different alternator. @ScotThompson, I’d found your thread and had started reading but the put the subject down for the night. I’ll start researching again today. It sounds like there are lots of viable options. I have an uprated damper that prevents me from installing A/C…
Anyone out there need an alternator for a '65 GTO/Tempest? Have I got a deal for you!
