Am at the garage to install the head studs and want to drain the coolant first. Manual says to drain the radiator and the bloc drain above the dipstick. However, my car has two threaded plugs where the drain should be.
Lou, The spigot drain in the block was replaced by a threaded plug. There is only one AFAIK, but nearby (opposite the #1 main bearing) is a threaded hole for the cam oil feed. If someone fitted the S3 cam feed (from the oil filter block), this hole would also have plug.
List:
More on draining the block. Last night, I drained 1-2 gallons of coolant using the drain under the radiator. Then on my way home, I stopped at Harbor Freight (low-cost, low-quality tools and equipment) and picked up up a hand pump. Using the hand pump, and a 1/4" rubber hose from the pump kit, I got the level down to 1" or less. I then hooked up the same rubber hose to a compressor, and with 80 pounds of pressure, blew out the coolant (I put rags over the block to catch the moisture) and got the water level in the block down about 1/4".
Tomorrow I will lay a box fan on the block and hopefully evaporate the remaining moisture.
Regards
Lou
Lou , I think you should take the drain plug out , drain the block , then stick a water hose in the rad and flush out the block , XK engines are well know for sludging up at the back , if you evaporate the water all the crap will be left in !
Ian
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Agreed! You seem a bit OCD on this moister. Why the need for a dry engine when installing head studs?
Good LUck,
Phillip
Phillip:
Thanks for your response. I had to look up OCD.
A number of listers suggested that before I reinstall the studs and head, that I drain the coolant from the block. And also, I was concerned that the problem I had with the head studs becoming loose after installation and only minimal use, might be due to liquid being trapped under the threads on the block when I installed the studs. And then once the water seeps out from under the studs, they becomes loose. I know that is far fetched, but at this point I don’t want to leave any turn unstoned.
Also, from my own experience, I know that there is a lot of minerals from the water used for cooling, which precipitate out over time,restricting the circulation channels in the block, and resulting in overheating.
I know this to be a fact because, the last time I did this work 2 or 3 years ago, I removed the freeze plugs and the amount of precipitated material that was in and around the bottom of the coolant area was substantial. So there is truth in their assertion. My car ran much cooler after I removed all this material.
So, perhaps I am obsessive, but probably not compulsive. I guess it’s that I’m just pissed off about having to do this job again. 
But, you will be happy to know that I am ready to proceed, so there is apparently hope for the affected.
Regards
Lou
Ian:
I would if I could, but there is no water in the garage where the car is stored.
Lou
Yes sir!!! Glad you got my silly attempt at humor. Good luck.
Phillip