In reply to a message from Eric MaLossi sent Thu 2 Mar 2006:
Medium strength Locktite will need the heat from a propane torch to
get the nut off. Don’t use the high-strength red stuff or you’ll
wreck the threads trying to get the nut off. Even the low strength
stuff holds better than nylock inserts.
I use the medium strength locktite on the rod bolts in all my
engine overhauls (which has been 4 so far).–
The original message included these comments:
Now I’m getting paranoid wondering whether Blue Medium Loctite is sufficient
to hold these things on. I certainly don’t want the wheels on the right
side of the car coming off at speed. Anyone have any ideas as to the
relative effectiveness of the Med Loctite as compared to a Nyloc nut? I
–
Pete 70 XKE (193K) 88 XJ6 (233K) 88 XJ6 (217K) 60 Mini
Severna park, Maryland, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Eric MaLossi sent Thu 2 Mar 2006:
I just checked Carroll Smith (‘‘Screw to Win’’), and he’s with Mike,
though he points out that the FAA requires some additional locking
mechanism. He says that elastic stop nuts (e.g. nyloc) are the
next best thing after (and to supplement) just properly torqued
nuts. But later in the chapter he also really likes Loctite.
Loctite also stops corrosion, but you have to have the fasteners
really clean. And of course you can always get Loctite to let go
with heat.
Sounds to me as if blue Loctite will be more than sufficient to
hold them on, assuming the threads are cleaned with brake cleaner
and dried, and then the assembly is properly torqued.
Jerry–
The original message included these comments:
Now I’m getting paranoid wondering whether Blue Medium Loctite is sufficient
to hold these things on. I certainly don’t want the wheels on the right
side of the car coming off at speed. Anyone have any ideas as to the
relative effectiveness of the Med Loctite as compared to a Nyloc nut? I
In reply to a message from Eric MaLossi sent Thu 2 Mar 2006:
I’d use the blue. (I guess Loctite works on stainless -does
it?.) The red is awful hard to undo and the required heat
can mess up other stuff.
In any case, with eight studs holding each flange, you’d
probably have enough warning to pull over to the shoulder
just before the last one lets go, if you’re lucky ;-).
Yeah, Jerry, Carrol Smith. I had his books too, and found
them really useful but I lent them to another FF guy and
never got them back.–
Clive, '62 Coupe
Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from TomP66/62e sent Thu 2 Mar 2006:
I was thinking about this same thing. I’ve had a 4.2 long block
hanging on an engine stand for a couple of years. I was wondering
if anything bad would come of that? I was actually thinking of
dropping it onto its pan for the next few years.
Which is the best way to store an engine or does it matter a whole
lot?
Bru–
The original message included these comments:
I suspect no ill effect.
That said, my engines have always been stored on a stand and only
on their sumps while being assembled to gear box or being readied
to install in the car.
–
Brian Hughes
British Columbia, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from BRU sent Fri 3 Mar 2006:
I am not sure it matters much.
Since I have only stored mine a few months at a time awaiting
installation - I have placed them on an engine stand.
Safety first, if you have a weak stand (one with the ‘‘T’’ shaped leg
pattern), get it off the stand, since its bound to tip over anyway!
If it is going to be stored away for ‘‘years,’’ then take it off the
stand and set it on its sump - years down the road your sump seal
would be dried out or collapsed anyway!–
TomP (62 OTS, 66 2+2, 49 MGTC, 31 MG-M, 99 Z3)
El Dorado Hills (Sac), CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Daniel Hays sent Thu 2 Mar 2006:
Daniel,
If you look at the design of that sump, it’s quite beefy.
You’d have to do something pretty stupid to break it. As long as
the load is evenly distributed, there is absolutely no problem
setting the engine on the sump, for as long as you want to. Just
make sure it’s sitting on a board that is larger on all sides than
the sump itself. Also, IIRC, there is a small ‘‘bump’’ where the
drain plug is. If so, chisel out a relief in the board to clear
that. The board should be in full contact with the sump over the
entire area.–
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Daniel,
I’ve had several XK motors sitting on the pan, one for nearly 10 years. You can jack up the motor by the pan if you use a suitable piece of wood to distribute the force to the entire pan. Someone, I think it was Wiggie, said he actually dropped a motor on the pan from a short distance. So the answer is yes, the pan will support the motor no problem. Just make sure the motor is sitting on the entire pan, not just a portion of it.
pauls 67ots
In reply to a message from TomP66/62e sent Tue 7 Feb 2006:
Tom:
In looking at the photographs of your 3.8 engine installation I see
that you’ve installed by lowering the vehicle over the engine and
that the engine was sitting flat on a wooden support on its sump.
It appears that the sump is bearing the full weight of the engine
and transmission.
I’m wondering if you could tell me whether I could safely store a
3.8 engine I have by simply laying a sturdy board on the garage
floor and letting the engine rest upright on its sump for an
extended period of time - without damaging the sump?
Any thoughts/advice you have will be welcome. Many thanks.
Eric,
This jogged my memory, a few years back when replacing the brakes on a VW the bolts that held on the caliper were coated with “blue” loctite. I bought some at the time. Clearly the object was simply keep it from coming loose while still being able to remove the bolt.
pauls 67ots
In reply to a message from Eric MaLossi sent Thu 2 Mar 2006:
Medium strength Locktite will need the heat from a propane torch to
get the nut off. Don’t use the high-strength red stuff or you’ll
wreck the threads trying to get the nut off. Even the low strength
stuff holds better than nylock inserts.
I use the medium strength locktite on the rod bolts in all my
engine overhauls (which has been 4 so far).
<<<<<<<<<<<
Don’t know if Wiggie dropped his, but I dropped mine----about 8" to the
floor. Fell with the weight distributed evenly (fortunately) with no
damage anywhere. It has been used for 15 years following the drop with no
leakage or other problems.
Daniel,
I’ve had several XK motors sitting on the pan, one for nearly 10 years.
You can jack up the motor by the pan if you use a suitable piece of wood to
distribute the force to the entire pan. Someone, I think it was Wiggie,
said he actually dropped a motor on the pan from a short distance. So the
answer is yes, the pan will support the motor no problem. Just make sure
the motor is sitting on the entire pan, not just a portion of it.
pauls 67ots
From: “Daniel Hays” daniel_hays@gap.com
Subject: Re: [E-Type] '62 OTS work status
In reply to a message from TomP66/62e sent Tue 7 Feb 2006:
Tom:
In looking at the photographs of your 3.8 engine installation I see
that you’ve installed by lowering the vehicle over the engine and
that the engine was sitting flat on a wooden support on its sump.
It appears that the sump is bearing the full weight of the engine
and transmission.
I’m wondering if you could tell me whether I could safely store a
3.8 engine I have by simply laying a sturdy board on the garage
floor and letting the engine rest upright on its sump for an
extended period of time - without damaging the sump?
Any thoughts/advice you have will be welcome. Many thanks.