Think of it as another story to relate to your grand kids. Properly embellished with an assortment of wild critters and backwoods types with banjos you should have them on the edge of their seats. 
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Thatās only two cents per mile. Not bad at all.
I keep track of my fuel consumption, just for giggles. Fuel alone Iām running 30 cents per mile.
Of course, thatās Canadian cents and Canadian miles. 
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Im trying to figure out what a Canadian mile is. Sometimes Iām not so smart. Canāt be a km or that cost would be outrageous
Thatās just Nickās sense of humour. He wants to tie us up in knots.
Well he got me there! As did you!
Not nautical Knots I hope, thats another kettle of fish 
A Canadian mile is one that apologizes for being so long 
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Hi Ray -
Iām sure this info exists in another thread somewhere, but for those of us with the kit who would like to purchase spare parts to keep in the boot, can you provide in this thread the mfg & P/Ns for the EDIS, coilpack, and pickup?
Thanks,
Dave
Dave,
The EDIS module, coilpack, and crank pickup are all for a '95-99 Mustang 3.8L. ALL EDIS6 modules are functionally identical, so any will work. There are at least two different styles of EDIS6 coilpack, the difference being which way the harness connector comes off. For the E-Type, you MUST get the one where the harness connector points UP, the same direction as the plug wire ātowersā. The crank pickup, AFAICT, was used ONLY on the 3.8L Mustangs. I would always recommend the genuine Ford/MotorCraft parts, which is what I got, by dumb luck, at AutoZone. The bad EDIS module I got was made by Standard Motor Parts, which is one of the most common brands youāll find in parts stores. Their parts are normally very good, in fact I supplied their crank pickups with most of the kits and never saw a single problem, so I donāt know how I got a bad module this time. My kits came with used genuine Ford/MotorCraft EDIS modules and coilpacks because at that time, new parts were stupid expensive (they would have doubled the price of the kit!). Typical price for the module is now ~$180, though I got the Ford one for $160, and you can find them for less online if you shop around. Used ones are available on EBay, typically for $60 or so. The coilpacks seem to run ~$80, the pickup ~$30. The plug wire sets I had custom made by kingsbournewires.com. If you call them, and give them my name, and explain they made several batches for me back in '13-14, they should still be able make up a set for you for just the cost of the individual parts (wires, boot, terminals, etc.). Funny thing is, I was paying, IIRC, $35/set for those custom wire sets. I noticed today the special EDIS plug wire ends with locks are now $16 EACH! On the plus side, the ālocksā on the ones they have now are more robust than the ones they had when I did the kits. Those wire sets will obviously be a lot more expensive now - Iād guess $100-120.
Later EDIS coilpacks used more standard plug wire connectors. They MAY be easier to get plug wire terminals and boots for, but I have the impression those coilpacks are a bit harder to come by, and I donāt know what specific years/models used them.
I have to say, those coilpacks are impressive! When you pull the boot off a spark plug while the engine is running, it continues to throw a hot, blue spark at least two inches! No standard coil will do that!
Regards,
Ray L.
I canāt believe you got out of it that cheaply
LOLā¦and 20ā¦
Which mile does Canada use? The International mile or the Statute mile we use in the U.S.?
I ask because the statute mile is 0.00072 meters longer than the International mile.
Our mile has 5,280 feet, just like yours.
Of course, thatās Canadian feet.
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Which are wider and longer for walking in the snow!
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Do they have ten Canadian toes orā¦
I just finished wasting hours sorting out an incredibly stupid failure on one of our BMWs. A few days ago, my wife drove into town. On the way back the check engine light came on. When she got home, she told me, so I got out my phone, and asked it āWTF??ā. The āfuel trimsā, the amount by which the computer had to boost the fuel flow into the engine above the nominal values in its lookup tables, were all pegged at +25%, which means the computer thought the engine was running massively lean. That usually indicates a vacuum leak somewhere, allowing un-metered air into the engine. I checked all the usual suspects, including doing a thorough āsmoke testā on the engine to test for leaks. Found nothing. Everything everyone told me should be checked, checked out fine. I was completely stumped. It finally occurred to me that just before this happened, my wife had put gas in the car. I asked āCould this be a bad fuel filler cap?ā, and everyone said āNo, that would have thrown an EVAP system codeā, which it did not. Having no other ideas, I went ahead and checked the cap. It is supposed to click when tightened, but, no click. And even when turned as hard as I could, it took only one finger to loosen it. I removed it, removed the (obviously tired) O-ring that seals it, and slipped another, much thinner, O-ring behind the original, to shim it out. I then installed it, and lo and behold it clicked. I went for a drive, and the fuel trims were all back down to low single digits, where they belong.
$50 for a new filler cap! Yikes!
Thatās four hours of my life Iāll never get backā¦ This has been the week from hell with our carsā¦
Regards,
Ray L.
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You got 15 years of service out of an aftermarket part?
Iād say you did better than many ānewā car buyers. Well done!
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No, the failed EDIS module was a Ford/MotorCraft part, though it was used, and of unknown age, when first installed in my Jag back in '05. So, it lasted ONLY 14 years!
Regards,
Ray L.
Be aware that any problems in the high voltage circuit reflects back into the ignition module. Anything that results in a higher spark voltage, such as bad wires will stress the module.
How does a bad fuel filler cap cause a lean condition? I can only only imagine air being sucked into the fuel line, but that doesnāt really seem possible since the tank pickup is submerged. Thatās crazy!
Dave