I re-soldered the new wires into the wiper motor (twice! as the first set
proved WAY too large to actually allow the motor to be put back together),
cleaned everything up, oiled and greased, etc, and it looks fine. But before
I get a bunch of stuff into the car which would make taking the motor out a
pain, are there any basic tests I can run? Can I just hook green up to power
to see if it spins? Or green + another lead? Or…? If there’s not, I’ll
take my chances, but it would be nice to test.
You guys seem to have a better breed of factory manual than I do. Mine
simply provides an unlabeled diagram of the wiper circuit and suggests that
might prove acceptable for troubleshooting. Is my “complete original”
workbook not the choice publication?
In reply to a message from Roger Los sent Sat 21 Apr 2012:
The test procedure is quite complicated, and many people quite
unnecessarily conclude their motor is faulty . To test the slow
speed : i.connect green to live of power source ii. join brown and
red together and connect to earth of power source iii.connect blue
and white together
To test fast speed : i.green to live ii.join yellow and red
together and connect to earth iii. join blue and white together
Good luck with it–
christopher storey
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Roger Los sent Sat 21 Apr 2012:
Roger,
Page P.40 of the Service Manual gives the test procedure for the
DL3 wiper motor.
-David–
The original message included these comments:
You guys seem to have a better breed of factory manual than I do. Mine
simply provides an unlabeled diagram of the wiper circuit and suggests that
might prove acceptable for troubleshooting. Is my ‘‘complete original’’
workbook not the choice publication?
Roger Los
–
davidxk '56 XK-140 OTS, '69 XKE OTS , '98 XK8
Monterey CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Well it’s a long time since I have done it , and it does rather depend on which of the several wiper motors you have , so I cannot say it will definitely work for your motor, but the answer to your first question is Yes, you can use an ordinary 12v battery ( or indeed an old style battery charger) . If your car is a 3.8 and still positive earth, then connect green to the negative, and brown and red to positive . Vice versa if your car is negative earth
Strangely enough, there is a similar problem going in a thread on E type ( UK ) forum which you may find has something for you
The link is http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=16528
I’m actually in the middle of doing this now with my freshly restored/replaced parts.
The attached document that I lifted from Harvey Ferris’ blog written by Dick Vandermeyden plus page 351 of Bentley together explain it nicely.
As noted it is fairly complicated with good potential to do some low voltage DC welding. I made up a cheater harness with insulated alligator clips on the bullet connectors and spade connectors on the opposite ends to attach directly to the switch and a small house alarm battery. You’ll need to lift the ground at the right moment to simulate the parking operation.
I highly recommend using the real switch. In my case I found the switch to be intermittent. Upon disassembly and cleaning (an adventure in spring loaded small parts) I discovered the brass contacts had worn divots sufficient to make it intermittent. So had to replace the switch. With luck I’ll be re-testing it all again tomorrow.
Here is my bench test hookup. Shown in the Off position. Touching the bare alligator clip to the (-) battery pole will cause the motor to reverse (park). Flipping the switch to the right is Lo and Hi speed (with the alligator removed from (-) as shown).
The motor is beautiful. The cast aluminum parts on mine have turned quite dark. Nothing seems to make them look new. Did you spray yours with something like CastBlast, or find a good method to make the aluminum look like new?
Nothing special. They are zinc die castings and naturally darker than aluminum. I glass bead blasted them aggressively and then coated with ACF-50. The sheet metal cover was really beat up so that got wet sanding 1000 to 2500 and then machine glaze.
My DL3 wiper motor has two white wires, there is no yellow. This is a '64 3.8 E-type. Wondering if anyone has run into this. I don’t believe it’s ever had any work done on it. I’ve owned it for 40 years. When I test the two white wires, they show continuity. I’m not sure how to bench test this without a yellow wire. If I pop off the end cap, is anything spring loaded going to fly out? Thanks for any help.
Al
I’m no help re: your wire colors, but here is what you can expect to see when you remove the end plate. The only spring loaded parts are the brushes against the commutator.
