Many times in the past, I’ve asserted essentially the same method ("*hand tight, then three thwacks"), to some fair amount of pushback.
Thanks for the confirmation!
Old-timers tools - use with a dishrag (they provide one) but anything will do. I have this one: https://www.oldtimertools.de/Vehicle-Type/Jaguar/Premium-knock-off-spinner-tool-for-Jaguar-JAK-2-S.html
Just bought one! Thanks for the tip.
Hi Dave, Over the 35 years that I have owned Sylvia, the thought of pounding away with a BF hammer on the chrome wheel spinners makes me cringe.
Even with the Thor factory unit, I must admit that the effect that such a hammer has on a well cared for set of chrome spoke wheels left me looking for an alternate.
I did buy a wooden wheel nut from one of the usual’s but it started to delaminate with use. So back to my shop bench and some Imagineering, produced the “Frankenwrench”.
best regards and stay safe, Brian / Mytype
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I have in my mind’s eye a version of this. Polished aluminium with copper head rivets, just a little smaller than the version in the photo, with the plywood centre French polished to a high sheen. I’d never use, just hand it in the garage wall or have it displayed at shows.
Oh the things that go through your head when stuck at home for he next three weeks by order of the government!
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The best knockoff removal tool is probably a hot air gun. Get the spinner hot (and the hub not) and then less whacking or fancy leverage will be needed.
kind regards
Marek
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A good tip for when in the garage, but along the side of the road you need a purely manual method.
I use one of Lionel’s big aluminium sockets and a 3’ pipe on the breaker bar.
A lead hammer will work great without denting the chrome or distorting the metal That is what a lot of manufacturers in the day used. Ferrari uses lead as the knockoffs are over $500 each. Don’t want to dent them! Brass hammers, plastic deadblows, rawhide and wood will scratch high end chrome. Been using lead for years without any damage. A lead hammer does not take up much space also.
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Ditto: the rest, though cute and fancy, seems like… surprise!
Overthink.
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I wondered why I am getting email notifications on this thread. I see that I started it -17 years ago. I bought the British Wheel Wrench. As others have stated it did not consistently tighten the wheels. I showed that car. At each concourse I had to put the correct goofy three eared “safety” knock offs on to replace the two eared ones that I normally drove with. As often as not when driving away from the concourse and braking I would hear a clunk indicating that a knock off was loose. I would stop, get out the lead hammer and tighten them. Eventually I broke one of the welds on the British Wheel Wrench tightening the knock offs and that was still not tight enough. It takes an impact to consistently tighten the knock offs. As Dick Maury recommends, I used used a lead hammer until I sold that car four years ago. I saved the two eared knock offs as they still look very good and will use them on the '65 I am restoring. Those knock offs were probably removed and installed more than 50 times in the years I drove the '69 OTS.
Dave Christensen
1965 E Type OTS - apart for restoration
2012 XK Convertible
2013 XJ
Tucson, AZ - You don’t have to shovel sunshine!
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And it also has the advantage of being able to be recast when it gets really chewed up over time.
I made a removal tool out of very dense plywood. It worked, but I never use it. Easier to just haul out the 5# self cast lead hammer and whale on the knock off.
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Wow… seems so long ago…
Got to get those knockoffs tight. Porsche calls for 440 lb/ft Not sure how much Jaguar calls for but probably not to far behind.
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What ever 3 good whacks is after seating it!
Here is some info on how many ft lbs are necessary to tighten the spinners.
Torque Settings: In a Lotus Elan printed manual has the only settings I’ve found and that was 200 to 220 fi/lbs All others only recommend using a lead hammer. Breaker bar to loosen a torque wrench to tighten.
A local shop owner: Who has always loosened his spinners with three good whacks with a lead hammer, does it. We tested his 3 good whacks method and he hit within 3 to 4 lbs of 210 each time. He did say, by using a breaker bar caused the wheel to spin on the floor and should block the tire.
Hi Dave, Your problem is not unique. I guess it boils down to how you want your knock offs to look after several wheel removals. My series 2 came with the non-eared knock offs and a brass wrench to beat on for removal. I opted for the traditional eared ones and bought a brand new set, but couldn’t bring myself to whack them with a hammer. So I made up the Frankenwrench as shown. It is the wooden wrench supplied by Jag Parts distributors but I went one step more and had it clad in stainless steel as shown to give it heft and durability. It works and no damage to the knock offs. best regards, Brian / Mytype
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That looks absolutely medieval
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After all these years and all these various machinations to remove knock offs, I’ve still never understood why people are opposed to simple lead hammers: they don’t damage the knock offs.
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I use a Thor copper hide mallet. Never use the copper side, just the hide face. Sure the hide doesn’t last, so I replace the hide face when it has deformed, just as a lead hammer needs reforming every so often.
Anyone ever made their own lead hammer? I’ve a quantity of dead batteries that need to be recycled, I quite fancy using the lead to make a hammer.
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Quality Make Your Own Hammer Kit Manufacturer RI I bought this kit and make 5 lb hammers with lead. Work great. The handles they sell are nice solid (not hollow tubes). McMaster does not carry them anymore so getting hard to find the handles.
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