Ok it time to start putting the front suspension back together,
looking at braking options caliper, rotors ect. what is the general
opinin on front disk brakes. buy new rotors and rebuild the caliper
or upgrade. This is a driving machine not a show car, also
rebuilding the rear end. If one wants a company to rebuild the
calipers were would be the best place .
thanks in advanced
Vince B
Txhealey–
txhealey
friendswood texas, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from bighealey sent Sun 29 Jul 2007:
Vince,
The general consensus on the list is that the stock brakes are good
enough. There are several good caliper rebuilders out there. I’ve
used Sierra Specialty in Quincy CA a few times with good results.
NAYYY. Apple Hydraulics is another place with a good reputation.
There are others. Just send the whole caliper - they will
disassemble and send them back complete.
Upgrade the 3 brake hoses while you’re at it - get the
teflon/stainless hoses, available from the usuals.
Lots of controversy about the slotted brake rotors. No need for
them on a street car.
All that said, my '69 OTS has Wilwood calipers on the front and the
old front calipers on the rear. It works well for me.
What year is your car?
David–
The original message included these comments:
Ok it time to start putting the front suspension back together,
looking at braking options caliper, rotors ect. what is the general
opinin on front disk brakes. buy new rotors and rebuild the caliper
or upgrade. This is a driving machine not a show car, also
rebuilding the rear end. If one wants a company to rebuild the
calipers were would be the best place .
thanks in advanced
Vince B
Txhealey
–
David - '61 & '69 OTS, '37 SS Saloon El Dorado Hills, CA
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Gentle souls, Of course, the brakes of an XKE ARE good enough. That
is not the problem. The problem is the high price of sleeving (for
optimum performance) and the subsequent quality of rebuild kits IF
you can find them that will do the job (as the repro kits are
generally crap). A good set of sleeved brakes (debatable) or new
conversions will set you back at least $500 or so for the fronts
alone. There is simply NO comparison between that usurious costs and
DIY with the ubiquitous and cheap Volvo set-up. THAT is why folks
seek alternatives for non-concourse cars. The best, easiest and
cheapest I have found are the Volvo brake conversions. The write-up
is on several sites of which this is one. Look, I don’t particularly
care how you spend your money, but unless you just want “eye candy”
or some other ludicrous “beat your chest” statement about how much
you’ve spent so it just HAS to be good (famous last words) concept,
you’ll investigate all your options.
I hope you find these useful. I have done this a few times and I’ve
had great luck. No need to spend heaps of money. Just a wee bit of
sweat equity and Yankee ingenuity.
Best, Brian
“The general consensus on the list is that the stock brakes are good
enough.”
In reply to a message from bighealey sent Sun 29 Jul 2007:
Vince,
It would help if you let us know what series your car is.
Personally, I have S2 brakes on my S1 and feel that it was a
worthwhile upgrade for a driver. Much more reliable
stopping with less pedal effort. My reason for staying with
Jag brakes instead of going to Wilwoods was that 20 years
down the road I (or more likely the next owner) might have
more of a problem getting replacements for the Wilwoods than
authentic Jag brakes.–
The original message included these comments:
Ok it time to start putting the front suspension back together,
looking at braking options caliper, rotors ect. what is the general
opinin on front disk brakes. buy new rotors and rebuild the caliper
or upgrade. This is a driving machine not a show car, also
rebuilding the rear end. If one wants a company to rebuild the
–
Jack Terrick 66 FHC
Greensburg, PA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
I don’t know about the Wilwoods, I have my car converted to Outlaw brakes.
My conversion is a bolt on and on my car that means I can revert back to the
original system simply by switching out the parts. I’m assuming that the
Wilwood/Brembo conversions would be similar so your concern for being able
to have spares in 20 years would seem not to be a concern. You’d simply put
the old stuff back.
Les Halls
Atlanta Ga
'68 S1.5 2+2
From: “Jack T.” jht66e@comcast.net
My reason for staying with
Jag brakes instead of going to Wilwoods was that 20 years
down the road I (or more likely the next owner) might have
more of a problem getting replacements for the Wilwoods than
authentic Jag brakes.
In reply to a message from Brian Ternamian sent Mon 30 Jul 2007:
Brian,
And heck, while you’re in there replace that outmoded expensive
cast iron 6 with a cheap and powerful Ford V8! ; -)
Seriously, I agree with your point, it’s really not the same as
lumping, and it’s not a damaging change. I only disagree with
people who say you have to do this because the original brakes
are crap.
But, here I am the owner of a very beautiful and historic
automobile. If I don’t preserve it as it was designed, why not
just buy a Boxster instead? They have great brakes…cheaper, too,
beautiful, and much less expensive to maintain as well as being
more comfy and faster. I guess I’ll try to keep my E Type though,
YMMV.
Jerry–
The original message included these comments:
Gentle souls, Of course, the brakes of an XKE ARE good enough. That
is not the problem. The problem is the high price of sleeving (for
optimum performance) and the subsequent quality of rebuild kits IF
you can find them that will do the job (as the repro kits are
generally crap). A good set of sleeved brakes (debatable) or new
conversions will set you back at least $500 or so for the fronts