I am in the process of rebuilding my front end (new transmission) and began
thinking about the flywheel. I have a new 3 piece clutch kit to install
and have been told that I it is a good idea to have the flywheel turned
whenever a new clutch is installed. The flywheel doesn’t appear to have
any wear (no blue spots), so is this really necessary. Also, how far can
you turn a flywheel and have it still be usable. There are 3 arrows ( >
) still showing on the side of the flywheel. At what point can you no
longer turn the flywheel and have to buy a new one instead. My main
concern is that my clutch was starting to slip but the old clutch doesn’t
really look that bad either. The clutch surface is nowhere near being worn
down to the rivits, so is it possible that my flywheel was causing my
slipping problem, because it has already been cut down too far? Am I
making sense? If I am, some feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Jim, if your clutch disk was not excessively worn (hard to tell,
sometimes) your slipping is probably due to weak pressure plate - springs
fatigued after 30+ years.
Paul
62 OTS----- Original Message -----
From: “Jim Paradeses/Jobscope” JParadeses@jobscope.com
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 6:37 PM
Subject: [E-Type] Do I need a new FlyWheel
I am in the process of rebuilding my front end (new transmission) and
began
thinking about the flywheel. I have a new 3 piece clutch kit to install
and have been told that I it is a good idea to have the flywheel turned
whenever a new clutch is installed. The flywheel doesn’t appear to have
any wear (no blue spots), so is this really necessary. Also, how far can
you turn a flywheel and have it still be usable. There are 3 arrows ( >
) still showing on the side of the flywheel. At what point can you no
longer turn the flywheel and have to buy a new one instead. My main
concern is that my clutch was starting to slip but the old clutch doesn’t
really look that bad either. The clutch surface is nowhere near being
worn
down to the rivits, so is it possible that my flywheel was causing my
slipping problem, because it has already been cut down too far? Am I
making sense? If I am, some feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Sounds similar to a reoccurring problem that I had with an old Dodge truck. It
turned out to be weak springs. I replaced the pressure plate.
Mike
Dreamer
It pays to have the flywheel surfaced when replacing t he clutch. It is
the same principal as having the brake rotors surface. You can not
always see the hard spots just from the color and this way you will know
the surface is flat and smooth with a good new friction surface. Should
only cost about $20 U.S. to have it done.–
At 06:37 PM 5/10/00 -0400, you wrote:
The clutch surface is nowhere near being worn
down to the rivits, so is it possible that my flywheel was causing my
slipping problem, because it has already been cut down too far? Am I
making sense?
The static pressure of the clutch is not effected by cutting the flywheel
just as long as the whole surface is cut. Hot spots are quite normal on a
flywheel and if your clutch was not chattering you may not have to
resurface it. If you feel your clutch was slipping then disc wear and / or
pressure plate spring wear ( fatique ) can cause slipping. If you just see
hot spots, scuff up the flywhell with 400 grit paper and let it rip.
The only bad aspect of cutting a flywheel too much is the fact that you may
move the pressure plate to far away from the release bearing . This will
cause a poor clutch release. Most E-Types have adjustment on the slave
cylinder rod to clutch fork to compensate for this variance. If you cut the
wheel you should have it balanced. Most people overlook this aspect of
cutting a wheel. I recommend it.
How much is too much? On the Jag wheel you can take .070 off without any
release problems. If you feel the rod had a lot of adjustment left you
could go more. Also a thicker disc will also make your clutch fingers sit
higher and you can gain back some of that distance and compensate. We like
a .050 to .060 air gap on the clutch.
Thanks,
Paul
Jim, if you had slippage, you ABSOLUTELY should resurface the flywheel.
Otherwise you will be getting additional practice in changing clutches in the
near future.
Regards, Tom Owen
Jim Paradeses/Jobscope wrote:> I am in the process of rebuilding my front end (new transmission) and began
thinking about the flywheel. I have a new 3 piece clutch kit to install
and have been told that I it is a good idea to have the flywheel turned
whenever a new clutch is installed. The flywheel doesn’t appear to have
any wear (no blue spots), so is this really necessary. Also, how far can
you turn a flywheel and have it still be usable. There are 3 arrows ( >
) still showing on the side of the flywheel. At what point can you no
longer turn the flywheel and have to buy a new one instead. My main
concern is that my clutch was starting to slip but the old clutch doesn’t
really look that bad either. The clutch surface is nowhere near being worn
down to the rivits, so is it possible that my flywheel was causing my
slipping problem, because it has already been cut down too far? Am I
making sense? If I am, some feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
OK, this brings up a good question. (As opposed to the dumb questions
I often ask)
When you have your stock flywheel lightened, where is the metal taken
from? I know that a considerable amout of surface can (or “is”) removed,
because it comes back many pounds lighter and the clutch still works. I
will probably go this way when I eventually have to pull mine.
LLoyd
Paul Cangialosi wrote:> …
The only bad aspect of cutting a flywheel too much is the fact that you may
move the pressure plate to far away from the release bearing . This will
cause a poor clutch release.