It lives! Started it up with chassis elevated on jack
stands…easy to get under it to look for leaks. Initial
problem with no fuel beyond the carbs. (I rebuilt them in
1985 and stored them in plastic bags). Finally looked at
the manual. Went back and turned the jet adjustment screws
in a bunch and it fired right up. Down pipes only for
exhaust so I didn’t run it very long…maybe ten minutes
total at 1500-2500 rpm. No oil leaks, no fuel leaks.
Water pump leak got a little worse…time to call XKS for a
new one. Freeze plugs on left side all seeped very
slightly…whacked them a few times and they stopped.
Miniscule oil pressure on retrofit mechanical gage in dash,
but plenty of flow at cams…bled/burped the oil line at
the gage and pressure was fine. Retrofit in-tank fuel pump
from SNG works great and it’s quiet. All aspects of
the ‘‘Bob Skelly’’ electrical mod worked as designed
including the red dash light. It’s over the freakin’ hump
hump! Thanks to everyone (here and on UKetype) who answ
answered all my questions along the way, and thank goodness for
for the archives.
I’ll have to remove the air conditioning compressor (no ho
hoses as yet), alternator, and the custom mounting bracket fr
from RetroAir to r/r the water pump. Not all that bad with th
the bonnet off. Wanted to install a larger diameter drive be
belt idler pulley anyway, so two jobs at once.
Doors, carpets, seats, and glass to go.
Miller time.–
Eric
DFW Texas, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Outstanding Eric!!On Fri, Oct 28, 2016 at 4:19 PM, 64etype bittersc@netzero.net wrote:
It lives! Started it up with chassis elevated on jack
stands…easy to get under it to look for leaks. Initial
problem with no fuel beyond the carbs. (I rebuilt them in
1985 and stored them in plastic bags). Finally looked at
the manual. Went back and turned the jet adjustment screws
in a bunch and it fired right up. Down pipes only for
exhaust so I didn’t run it very long…maybe ten minutes
total at 1500-2500 rpm. No oil leaks, no fuel leaks.
Water pump leak got a little worse…time to call XKS for a
new one. Freeze plugs on left side all seeped very
slightly…whacked them a few times and they stopped.
Miniscule oil pressure on retrofit mechanical gage in dash,
but plenty of flow at cams…bled/burped the oil line at
the gage and pressure was fine. Retrofit in-tank fuel pump
from SNG works great and it’s quiet. All aspects of
the ‘‘Bob Skelly’’ electrical mod worked as designed
including the red dash light. It’s over the freakin’ hump
hump! Thanks to everyone (here and on UKetype) who answ
answered all my questions along the way, and thank goodness for
for the archives.
I’ll have to remove the air conditioning compressor (no ho
hoses as yet), alternator, and the custom mounting bracket fr
from RetroAir to r/r the water pump. Not all that bad with th
the bonnet off. Wanted to install a larger diameter drive be
belt idler pulley anyway, so two jobs at once.
Doors, carpets, seats, and glass to go.
Miller time.
–
Eric
DFW Texas, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Les Halls sent Fri 28 Oct 2016:
Want to mention that Mike Eck’s tachometer conversion works
great and so does the clock mod. Amazing!–
Eric
DFW Texas, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Clock mod, that’s another thing that I’ve been promising myself I’ll
get done, and so far haven’t!On Fri, Oct 28, 2016 at 5:44 PM, 64etype bittersc@netzero.net wrote:
In reply to a message from Les Halls sent Fri 28 Oct 2016:
Want to mention that Mike Eck’s tachometer conversion works
great and so does the clock mod. Amazing!
Eric
DFW Texas, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from 64etype sent Fri 28 Oct 2016:
Eric,
You and Les are on similar timelines. Congratulations-
hearing the motor run for the first time is a thrilling
moment. I can still recall the fear and excitement when I
fired Bettie’s motor for the first time.–
The original message included these comments:
It lives! Started it up with chassis elevated on jack
stands…easy to get under it to look for leaks. Initial
Eric
DFW Texas, United States
–
john carey : (888373) Bettie IV - my '63 S1 FHC
Los Gatos/California, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from john carey sent Fri 28 Oct 2016:
Yes John, I had fire extinguishers at the ready.
I’ll be visiting your videos more and more as I move on to
installing weather stripping/doors etc. I have the head
liner and the wheel wells covered, plus all the stuff like
the cantrails and center console are retrimmed. So, I have
to finish the seats, trim and hang doors/hatch, plus all
glass installation to finish. What’s your WAG for time to
completion (assume six hour days)?–
The original message included these comments:
moment. I can still recall the fear and excitement when I
–
Eric
DFW Texas, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from john carey sent Fri 28 Oct 2016:
Congrats Eric! Have you considered using Kool Mat under the
carpets?
I will be in Dallas on a two day layover in a couple of
weeks, (I am an airline pilot for FEDEX). Would love to get
a chance to see your car. Lemme know.
Dave–
The original message included these comments:
It lives! Started it up with chassis elevated on jack
stands…easy to get under it to look for leaks. Initial
Eric
DFW Texas, United States
–
Dave // 1971 OTS SII 2R13762
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from F18driver sent Fri 28 Oct 2016:
Hi Dave,
For heat control I fabricated a full belly pan from
polished aluminum honeycomb, and then Jet Hot (ceramic)
coated the entire exhaust system…including the mufflers.
Inside I’m using Dynamat on floors and tunnel and footwells with
with Dynaliner over that (no traditional padding). Control
the heat from the outside…noise from the inside.
I’m here most of the time…be happy to show you the car if
you promise not to look at the wrecking zone I call a
garage. I’m a retired Navy/FAA engineering test pilot (Pax River)…we can swap some sea stories. Send me a PM with your schedule.
River)…we can swap some sea stories. Send me a PM with
your schedule.–
The original message included these comments:
weeks, (I am an airline pilot for FEDEX). Would love to get
a chance to see your car. Lemme know.
–
Eric
DFW Texas, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from 64etype sent Fri 28 Oct 2016:
Great feeling, eh, Eric? The real thrill comes when you
take her out for the first run. WRT the leaking from the
pump, did you put a can of Bars Leak in the cooling system?
The factory put it in when your car was new and it will
stop minor leaks without gumming up the cooling passages.
I’d try it before ordering a new pump.–
The original message included these comments:
Water pump leak got a little worse…time to call XKS for a
new one. Freeze plugs on left side all seeped very
slightly…whacked them a few times and they stopped.
–
Mark 1E14988 67 OTS, 2002 VDP
Burke, VA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from mgordon sent Fri 28 Oct 2016:
Indeed it is a great feeling, Mark.
Don’t think Bars Leak will stop this one. Also, since I’ve
added AC, the cooling system is going to need all the help
it can get. The new XKS pumps are supposed to have the
latest in impellor design. And finally, the AC bracket has
to come off to change the water pump…not bad at this
stage, but would be a nasty bugger once the AC hoses are
installed and system charged (with bonnet on the car).–
The original message included these comments:
Great feeling, eh, Eric? The real thrill comes when you
take her out for the first run. WRT the leaking from the
–
Eric
DFW Texas, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Wow, two major milestones on the same day, we’re on a roll!!
pauls
It lives! Started it up with chassis elevated on jack
stands…easy to get under it to look for leaks. Initial
problem with no fuel beyond the carbs. (I rebuilt them in
1985 and stored them in plastic bags). Finally looked at
the manual. Went back and turned the jet adjustment screws
in a bunch and it fired right up. Down pipes only for
exhaust so I didn’t run it very long…maybe ten minutes
total at 1500-2500 rpm. No oil leaks, no fuel leaks.
Water pump leak got a little worse…time to call XKS for a
new one. Freeze plugs on left side all seeped very
slightly…whacked them a few times and they stopped.
Miniscule oil pressure on retrofit mechanical gage in dash,
but plenty of flow at cams…bled/burped the oil line at
the gage and pressure was fine. Retrofit in-tank fuel pump
from SNG works great and it’s quiet. All aspects of
the ‘‘Bob Skelly’’ electrical mod worked as designed
including the red dash light. It’s over the freakin’ hump
hump! Thanks to everyone (here and on UKetype) who answ
answered all my questions along the way, and thank goodness for
for the archives.
I’ll have to remove the air conditioning compressor (no ho
hoses as yet), alternator, and the custom mounting bracket fr
from RetroAir to r/r the water pump. Not all that bad with th
the bonnet off. Wanted to install a larger diameter drive be
belt idler pulley anyway, so two jobs at once.
Doors, carpets, seats, and glass to go.
Miller time.
<<<<<<<<<From: “64etype” bittersc@netzero.net
Subject: [E-Type] First engine start since 1978!
In reply to a message from 64etype sent Fri 28 Oct 2016:
Eric,
Hard to really say without seeing the car and knowing which
of the million of details are completed yet or not. If all
you have left is the things you listed, then I’d say a few
weeks.–
The original message included these comments:
Yes John, I had fire extinguishers at the ready.
I’ll be visiting your videos more and more as I move on to
installing weather stripping/doors etc. I have the head
liner and the wheel wells covered, plus all the stuff like
the cantrails and center console are retrimmed. So, I have
to finish the seats, trim and hang doors/hatch, plus all
glass installation to finish. What’s your WAG for time to
completion (assume six hour days)?
–
john carey : (888373) Bettie IV - my '63 S1 FHC
Los Gatos/California, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from john carey sent Sat 29 Oct 2016:
Thanks, John. There are a few other details, but those are
the big ones. I’m budgeting a couple of months.–
The original message included these comments:
Hard to really say without seeing the car and knowing which
of the million of details are completed yet or not. If all
you have left is the things you listed, then I’d say a few
weeks.
–
Eric
DFW Texas, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from 64etype sent Fri 28 Oct 2016:
Eric I have absolutely zero knowledge or exp. with the new
Alu. WPs you have described. My question would and will be
if they were designed to take the stress you will put on the
WP pulley with the AC system–unless you are driving the
compressor directly from the crank?–
The original message included these comments:
added AC, the cooling system is going to need all the help
it can get. The new XKS pumps are supposed to have the
latest in impellor design. And finally, the AC bracket has
to come off to change the water pump…not bad at this
–
George Camp
Columbia SC, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from George Camp sent Sun 30 Oct 2016:
George,
I actually ordered the XKS cast iron pump on-line
yesterday, in part because I didn’t care for the ‘‘bling’’
factor of an aluminum pump casting. Their description of
the pump says the casting is identical to the original with
uprated modern internals. Sounds like they put a current
rebuild kit in a new casting of original spec…which is OK
by me. I added a note on the order form that if the new
pump is in fact a ‘‘Country’’ import, they should keep it.
The primary reason being that the AC mount bracket goes
over the pump (using some of the same bolt holes) and
differences in the casting/machining could lead to
interference problems. I’ve examined a ‘‘Country’’ pump and th
there are external differences.
I removed the old pump yesterday. Had leaked about half a gallon overnight (from the weep hole). Will disassemble when I have time, investigate, and report back. By the way, I used the
gallon overnight (from the weep hole). Will disassemble
when I have time, investigate, and report back. By the way,
I used the Permatex version of Hylomar on the flanges for
assembly and it was mushy…almost slimy when I took it ap
apart. Will uses dedicated water pump sealant when I in
install the new pump.
The AC kit uses a single V-belt drive. Not ideal, but I’m
not going to modify it unless problems arise. One thing I
am addressing while the pump is out is substituting a
larger diameter idler pulley, both to get a better contact
patch on the alternator, and to slow down pulley/bearing
speed on the tensioner. I spoke with a Gates belt engineer
about running a segmented ‘‘V’’ belt on the back side over an
idler. While not ideal, he recommended using the largest
radius possible for the idler. A spare belt will be part
of the travel kit. By the way, Rock Browning retired and
sold RetroAir to Classic Auto Air. Great guy.
Regards–
The original message included these comments:
Alu. WPs you have described. My question would and will be
if they were designed to take the stress you will put on the
WP pulley with the AC system–unless you are driving the
compressor directly from the crank?
–
Eric
DFW Texas, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
I actually ordered the XKS cast iron pump on-line
yesterday, in part because I didn’t care for the ‘‘bling’’
by me. I added a note on the order form that if the new
pump is in fact a ‘‘Country’’ import, they should keep it.
–
Geo Hahn 1969 OTS 4.2
Mt Lemmon, Arizona, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–