Hi,I’m trying to update to the new type teflon front crank
seal.Finally got every thing off and oil pan off.Ordered new
gaskets and seal kit from CW .Just arrived today no kit just
the new seal.they tell me the kits no longer
available.GREAT.Is this seal any good to me without the new
sleeve and O ring.These seals are not what you would call
cheap.Could use any input or advice.Hope to here from
someone out there.Thanks Ted Clough 71 SII xke crossville TN–
r.e.c
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from r.e.c sent Tue 14 Apr 2015:
If it is in good shape you can use your old distance piece
and oil slinger, just cut the slinger down to the same
outside diameter as the distance piece (you need this to
keep the dimensions correct and eliminate the oil splash on
to the new seal). Just be sure to use the yellow plastic
seal installation tool or you risk ruining the new seal. I
bet the new longer distance piece with the inner o-ring is
available from somewhere (check all the usuals?).–
The original message included these comments:
Hi,I’m trying to update to the new type teflon front crank
seal.Finally got every thing off and oil pan off.Ordered new
gaskets and seal kit from CW .Just arrived today no kit just
the new seal.they tell me the kits no longer
available.GREAT.Is this seal any good to me without the new
sleeve and O ring.These seals are not what you would call
cheap.Could use any input or advice.Hope to here from
someone out there.Thanks Ted Clough 71 SII xke crossville TN
–
Doug- 1968 Series 1.5 E-Type OTS
Denver, CO, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from 64etype sent Tue 14 Apr 2015:
Hi, I converted to the updated seal kit also. It leaked just
like the old one did, now both of my Etypes have the old seal
design with the oil slinger ring. No more leaks.
Regards,
Allen–
alodmd
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from r.e.c sent Tue 14 Apr 2015:
Hey there, Ted. With time and use the old front seal will wear
a slight groove into the spacer and render it useless. The
spacer should be a near mirror finish. If it isn’t you will
need to replace it no matter what replacement front seal you
choose.–
The original message included these comments:
Hi,I’m trying to update to the new type teflon front crank
seal.Finally got every thing off and oil pan off.Ordered new
gaskets and seal kit from CW .Just arrived today no kit just
the new seal.they tell me the kits no longer
available.GREAT.Is this seal any good to me without the new
sleeve and O ring.These seals are not what you would call
cheap.Could use any input or advice.Hope to here from
someone out there.Thanks Ted Clough 71 SII xke crossville TN
–
Nick Saltarelli '68 Cdn mkt E-type S1� OTS, '54 XK120SE OTS
Niagara, Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
=============
In reply to a message from r.e.c sent Tue 14 Apr 2015:
If it is in good shape you can use your old distance piece
and oil slinger, just cut the slinger down to the same
outside diameter as the distance piece (you need this to
keep the dimensions correct and eliminate the oil splash on
to the new seal). Just be sure to use the yellow plastic
seal installation tool or you risk ruining the new seal. I
bet the new longer distance piece with the inner o-ring is
available from somewhere (check all the usuals?).
The original message included these comments:
Hi,I’m trying to update to the new type teflon front crank
seal.Finally got every thing off and oil pan off.Ordered new
gaskets and seal kit from CW .Just arrived today no kit just
the new seal.they tell me the kits no longer
available.GREAT.Is this seal any good to me without the new
sleeve and O ring.These seals are not what you would call
cheap.Could use any input or advice.Hope to here from
someone out there.Thanks Ted Clough 71 SII xke crossville TN
–
Doug- 1968 Series 1.5 E-Type OTS
Denver, CO, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
=============
In reply to a message from 64etype sent Tue 14 Apr 2015:
Hi, I converted to the updated seal kit also. It leaked just
like the old one did, now both of my Etypes have the old seal
design with the oil slinger ring. No more leaks.
Regards,
Allen
In reply to a message from skiracer sent Tue 14 Apr 2015:
You should not reuse the old seal runner.
If you put the teflon seal on you need to remove the oil slinger.–
The original message included these comments:
If it is in good shape you can use your old distance piece
In reply to a message from Tom Felts sent Tue 14 Apr 2015:
The O-ring for the sleeve is actually a bit too small for
the groove. The O-ring supplied is 1/8 inch diameter
cross-section and it doesn’t get sufficient compression in
the groove, so it will leak prematurely. Google ‘‘O-ring
groove design’’ for more information. You need a slightly
thicker O-ring, but they are hard to come by in imperial
sizes. A 3.5mm or 4.0 mm O-ring would compress more and
provide a better seal between the sleeve and the shaft.–
The original message included these comments:
hummmm the new spacer with the O-ring stopped my leak cold.
–
Pete Peterson 70E(193K) XJ40s(88-270K,89-97K, 94-122K)
Severna Park, Maryland, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from N�ck sent Tue 14 Apr 2015:
You can buy a speedy sleeve that size and use you old
sleeve. I did and it costs ca $20 8 year ago or so.–
The original message included these comments:
In reply to a message from r.e.c sent Tue 14 Apr 2015:
–
Mike Moore 63 S1 OTS #878877
Morgan Hill, California, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Good morning Nick,
I believe that you’ll find that the front crank seal does not ride exactly in the center of the spacer and it’s possible to reverse the spacer and have the seal ride on an on unworn spot.
Bob
889076
Plymouth, Mi.On Apr 14, 2015, at 8:22 PM, Níck stellar-plain@sympatico.ca wrote:
In reply to a message from r.e.c sent Tue 14 Apr 2015:
Hey there, Ted. With time and use the old front seal will wear
a slight groove into the spacer and render it useless. The
spacer should be a near mirror finish. If it isn’t you will
need to replace it no matter what replacement front seal you
choose.
The original message included these comments:
Hi,I’m trying to update to the new type teflon front crank
seal.Finally got every thing off and oil pan off.Ordered new
gaskets and seal kit from CW .Just arrived today no kit just
the new seal.they tell me the kits no longer
available.GREAT.Is this seal any good to me without the new
sleeve and O ring.These seals are not what you would call
cheap.Could use any input or advice.Hope to here from
someone out there.Thanks Ted Clough 71 SII xke crossville TN
–
Nick Saltarelli '68 Cdn mkt E-type S1½ OTS, '54 XK120SE OTS
Niagara, Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
See the Free Advert here to get contact information for
Hanneh V. John Carey may have the best information on the
condition of the kit. I know nothing more.
Jerry–
Jerry Mouton '64 FHC 889791 ‘MIK Jaguar’
Palo Alto, California, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Jaguarpete sent Tue 14 Apr 2015:
Thanks for this great tip. I was planning to button up the
bottom end of the engine this morning, but instead went to
the garage and checked that O-ring. It is indeed too small
to get a decent seal. I found a metric size at ACE
hardware. It fits correctly. I wouldn’t be surprised if
some reported leaks from Teflon seals originate with that
o-ring.
SUPPLIERS WHO FOLLOW THESE THREADS TAKE NOTE (We know
you’re lurking out there!)–
The original message included these comments:
The O-ring for the sleeve is actually a bit too small for
the groove. The O-ring supplied is 1/8 inch diameter
cross-section and it doesn’t get sufficient compression in
the groove, so it will leak prematurely. Google ''O-ring
–
Eric
DFW Texas, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from 64etype sent Wed 15 Apr 2015:
For the record, I just finished installing the timing cover
and oil pan with the Teflon seal on my '64 3.8. As
discussed previously in the archives, there is no way on
earth that seal will fit correctly on a 3.8 timing cover
without trimming back the outer radius. I used 120 grit
sand paper followed by 220. Also helps to shape the
rubber at the outer edges to mimic the old lip seal
profile. Glen Jarboe and others covered this nicely back
in the day, but I thought I’d ditto their experience. Yes,
the rubber around the radius is made to compress, but not
that much. Trial and error…multiple fittings. Final
installation was with a very small amount of sealant around
the radius in case my shrink job was irregular. But even
with the modifications it’s still squashed in there. This
would be a very daunting job with the engine still in the
car.
I used a metric oil ring in the spacer groove as suggested
above…requires that the sharp lip at the end of the crank
be rounded off very slightly with a file to get it
started. Nice snug fit when installed.
Permatex 85420, Gasket Dressing and Sealant, is their blue
Hylomar equivalent, and it’s the cat’s meow for installing
the timing cover and oil pan gaskets.
So, the engine has a front Teflon seal, a Terry’s rear seal
conversion, and is stuck together with the best glue I
could find. Surely it won’t leak…–
Eric
DFW Texas, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–