Tackling the horn problem on my Series 2 OTS. Some time ago
someone removed and discarded all the horn contact innerds from
the upper steering outer tube assembly. I ordered a complete horn
rebuild kit which advertised ‘‘everything to get that horn working
again!’’, which I figured would take care of me. However, I’ve got
the collasable outer tube assembly which is different than any of
the pictures I’ve seen anywhere (spare parts manuals, ventor sites,
etc.), and it’s not obvious to me how to assemble things, or even
where to start. One problem is that the horn push rod seems to be
too long - it won’t insert beyond a certain point and then is still
sticking out of the top of the column. The whole things seems to
be a different set up - don’t know where to install the contcts.
Any help appreciated!–
Charlie 1967 XKE 2+2, 1970 XKE Roadster
Great Falls, Virginia, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Tackling the horn problem on my Series 2 OTS. Some time ago
someone removed and discarded all the horn contact innerds from
the upper steering outer tube assembly. I ordered a complete horn
rebuild kit which advertised ‘‘everything to get that horn working
again!’’, which I figured would take care of me. However, I’ve got
the collasable outer tube assembly which is different than any of
the pictures I’ve seen anywhere (spare parts manuals, ventor sites,
etc.), and it’s not obvious to me how to assemble things, or even
where to start. One problem is that the horn push rod seems to be
too long - it won’t insert beyond a certain point and then is still
sticking out of the top of the column. The whole things seems to
be a different set up - don’t know where to install the contcts.
Any help appreciated!–
Charlie 1967 XKE 2+2, 1970 XKE Roadster
Great Falls, Virginia, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from CGivans sent Fri 12 Apr 2013:
Geeze. Just studied this some more - and it appears that my horn
push is not in the center of the steering wheel like everybody
elses, but is actually on the end of the direction signal
indicator. Is that right? Is is that simple, and I’ve bought all
the wrong parts? The only ‘‘good’’ news is that I’ve got slop in the
upper steering column somewhere (bushings?), so all my dissambly
will not be for naught, I hope.–
Charlie 1967 XKE 2+2, 1970 XKE Roadster
Great Falls, Virginia, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from CGivans sent Fri 12 Apr 2013:
My series 2 was built with the horn being actuated by pushing
in on the turn signal switch.–
DrewScherz, 1969 FHC
Austin, Texas, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from CGivans sent Fri 12 Apr 2013:
Charlie,
Correct. The horn push is on the turn indicator stalk. I think
I’ve heard of some people converting their Series 2’s to use
the steering wheel center push, but I don’t know how big a job
it is, or whether they used the kit you purchased.
-David–
The original message included these comments:
Geeze. Just studied this some more - and it appears that my horn
push is not in the center of the steering wheel like everybody
elses, but is actually on the end of the direction signal
–
davidxk '56 XK-140 OTS, '69 XKE OTS , '98 XK8
Monterey CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
This post begs the question, is it reasonably doable to move the S2 horn push to
the center of the steering wheel where it belongs?
Larry----- Original Message ----
From: CGivans givans_family@verizon.net
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Fri, April 12, 2013 9:40:42 AM
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Horn Push Mechanism on Series II
In reply to a message from CGivans sent Fri 12 Apr 2013:
Geeze. Just studied this some more - and it appears that my horn
push is not in the center of the steering wheel like everybody
elses, but is actually on the end of the direction signal
indicator. Is that right? Is is that simple, and I’ve bought all
the wrong parts? The only ‘‘good’’ news is that I’ve got slop in the
upper steering column somewhere (bushings?), so all my dissambly
will not be for naught, I hope.
Charlie 1967 XKE 2+2, 1970 XKE Roadster
Great Falls, Virginia, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
OK - it’s back together - and when I push the button on the end of
the turn signal, the horn toots! Never knew it! I’d like to
officially enter this string into the contest for the stupidest
post for 2013.
And to answer the question posted, I’d say it’s doable to move the
horn push to the center of the wheel, but it would take replacing
the Outer Tube Assembly with one from an earlier year (non
collapable).–
Charlie 1967 XKE 2+2, 1970 XKE Roadster
Great Falls, Virginia, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from CGivans sent Fri 12 Apr 2013:
It’s a dumb set-up, in about four ways. I looked into
changing to the centre of the steering wheel, and you’d have
to rebuild the whole damn steering column. Not worth it. By
the way, do you have bushings or roller bearings in the
column? If you have bearings, you can clean and grease them,
and add a shim or two to take up the slack, and your steering
will be just fine.–
1969 4.2 Series 2 E Type, 1919 Ssssstanley
Brentwood Bay, B.C., Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from IanCameron sent Fri 12 Apr 2013:
I’ve owned 4 Jaguar XJ40s so far, and every one of them has
the same horn button at the end of the turn signal stalk.
Pulling the stalk towards you flashed the high beams, just
like the E. Having the horn push in the middle of the
steering wheel would take some getting used to.–
The original message included these comments:
It’s a dumb set-up, in about four ways. I looked into
changing to the centre of the steering wheel, and you’d have
to rebuild the whole damn steering column. Not worth it. By
the way, do you have bushings or roller bearings in the
column? If you have bearings, you can clean and grease them,
and add a shim or two to take up the slack, and your steering
will be just fine.
–
Pete Peterson 70E(193K) XJ40s(88-270K,89-97K, 94-122K)
Severna Park, Maryland, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Jaguarpete sent Fri 12 Apr 2013:
I have no problem with the position, or the action. But the
shroud is a friction fit, and is prone to coming apart. The
horn contact is a wire soldered onto a moving part, which
effects the ground when the stalk is pushed. Given the number
of times you use the turn signals, the parts are fragile.
And, naturally, the various contacts are prone to corrosion.
Not a great design. But a lot cheaper to fix than the
gubbins on my Dodge Grand Caravan, which requires taking the
wheel off with special tools and putting in a part that costs
$150, if you can find one.–
1969 4.2 Series 2 E Type, 1919 Ssssstanley
Brentwood Bay, B.C., Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
The Series II column wasn’t originally set up for a horn push. The
push is on the end of the turn signal shaft.
That said, I converted a couple of S2 columns to a center push. It’s
tricky to do, but well within the universe of pdoable tasks. I think
there was a write up I had done years ago for the old E-Type Lovers
mailing list that tells you how., if George knows where to find it,
maybe he can point it out to you. That version required a Nardi
wheel, but I’ve since figured out how to convert a stock wheel. The synopsis:
You need to completely disassemble the column.
You need to create a slip ring on the lower column shaft. The way
I did this was to take a piece of 1" shrink wrap and shrink it over
the shaft. This acts as an insulator. Then cut a short bit of 3/4"
copper plumbing and solder a length of insulated wire to the inside
of the ring. Slip the ring over the shaft and epoxy it to the shrink
wrap. Run the wire up through the hole in the upper shaft.
create a brush holder from a banana plug, which can be obtained
from radio shack. Cut the inside contacts out, leaving you a hollow
shell. Get a copper roofing nail and work down the head until it fits
easily into the shell, with the point sticking out the back end. Then
insert a spring so that one end rests on the head of the nail. When
you screw the plug back in, the other end of the spring will contact
the backside of the plug. When finished, the copper nail will
protrude from the back, and the spring will allow you to compress
it into the plastic holder. Cut the free end of the copper nail to
about 1/4". This contact will insert into one of the diamond cutouts
in the mesh support, and you can fashion a support out of sheet metal
and a hose clamp to hold it against the slip ring.
Cut a round bit of rubber or plastic and slip it all the way down
into the upper shaft. Then take an old telescoping radio antenna, and
cut out a length from the top, cut at the second section down. This
will be the horn button contact: the two pieces allow it to telescope
when you move the wheel in and out. The nib of the antenna is what’s
going to contact the horn push. Slide a suitable spring over the
antenna so that it rests on against the nib. Find a plumbing washer
that’s a tight fit around the antenna, and slide it over the end.
Turn the washer down so that it slips into the shaft without much
binding. Solder the other end of the slip ring lead to the antenna
shaft. Then slide the antenna into the steering shaft. Install the
new push ring, and your’re all done except for taking it apart three
more times to adjust.
That’s the synopsis, the devil is in the details, and it’s not worth
much without photos. Then again, this is more guidance than I had
when I did it. I figure it’s a good Saturday afternoon project if you
have the bits, patience and skill to do it.
Mike Frank
At 11:38 AM 4/12/2013, you wrote:>Tackling the horn problem on my Series 2 OTS. Some time ago
someone removed and discarded all the horn contact innerds from
the upper steering outer tube assembly. I ordered a complete horn
rebuild kit which advertised ‘‘everything to get that horn working
again!’’, which I figured would take care of me. However, I’ve got
the collasable outer tube assembly which is different than any of
the pictures I’ve seen anywhere (spare parts manuals, ventor sites,
etc.), and it’s not obvious to me how to assemble things, or even
where to start. One problem is that the horn push rod seems to be
too long - it won’t insert beyond a certain point and then is still
sticking out of the top of the column. The whole things seems to
be a different set up - don’t know where to install the contcts.
Any help appreciated!
Charlie 1967 XKE 2+2, 1970 XKE Roadster
Great Falls, Virginia, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Michael Frank sent Fri 12 Apr 2013:
Well done, ye. That’s a lot easier than my solution, but
still not worth the time. Well - if one could be sure of
doing it in an afternoon, maybe. I’m sure I couldn’t.–
1969 4.2 Series 2 E Type, 1919 Ssssstanley
Brentwood Bay, B.C., Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Michael Frank sent Fri 12 Apr 2013:
Mike, That’s an excellent write up, which I have retained in
my files for future reference.I don’t feel particularly
comfortable at all with that push button on the signal
lever. And I would also like to thank you for yr excellent
write up on SII’‘E’’ hoses ( see Coolcat FAQ s ) which i
followed exactly. Also Rock Auto was a good source of the
hoses, despite 2 separate shipments, as their parts can come
from a variety of directions , depending on where the parts
are kept!! At some point I hope you might get some pics of
this horn button fix!–
The original message included these comments:
The Series II column wasn’t originally set up for a horn push. The
push is on the end of the turn signal shaft.
That said, I converted a couple of S2 columns to a center push. It’s
tricky to do, but well within the universe of pdoable tasks. I think
That’s the synopsis, the devil is in the details, and it’s not worth
much without photos. Then again, this is more guidance than I had
when I did it. I figure it’s a good Saturday afternoon project if you
have the bits, patience and skill to do it.
Mike Frank
–
John M Holmes 1973 E Type SIII Supra 5Sp, 70 SII OTS 05XJ8L
Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Mike,
I’d take you up on that in a hot minute if I weren’t so far away and the car
doesn’t run. Perhaps my efforts would be better directed in making it drivable
and not worry about the horn at this time? Unfortunately, the horn is just one
of many things that don’t work or don’t work properly. So many choices, so
little time.
Larry----- Original Message ----
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Sat, April 13, 2013 10:59:55 AM
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Horn Push Mechanism on Series II
I won’t have the opportunity to do this for my own car again. But I
would be happy to convert someone’s column and photograph the process.
Mike Frank
At 10:26 AM 4/13/2013, you wrote:
I At some point I hope you might get some pics of
this horn button fix!
In reply to a message from CGivans sent Fri 12 Apr 2013:
Its not really a button on the end of the directional, is
it… I have to push the entire directional stalk in. If
I had to depend on the horn in an emergency situation, I
would never be able to make the horn blow in time. I
purely can use it only when I ‘‘plan ahead of time’’. It is
not intuitive. Bob '69 2+2–
The original message included these comments:
OK - it’s back together - and when I push the button on the end of
the turn signal, the horn toots! Never knew it! I’d like to
In reply to a message from Carlsbadbob sent Sun 14 Apr 2013:
Exactly so ! That’s why I am not comfortable with it.–
The original message included these comments:
Its not really a button on the end of the directional, is
it… I have to push the entire directional stalk in. If
I had to depend on the horn in an emergency situation, I
would never be able to make the horn blow in time. I
purely can use it only when I ‘‘plan ahead of time’’. It is
not intuitive. Bob '69 2+2
–
John M Holmes 1973 E Type SIII Supra 5Sp, 70 SII OTS 05XJ8L
Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from John M Holmes sent Mon 15 Apr 2013:
Just train yourself so that when panic occurs, you imagine
that the rim of the wheel is the size of a doughnut rather
than the skinny thing that it actually is. When you clench
the wheel, you’ll hit the horn.–
The original message included these comments:
Exactly so ! That’s why I am not comfortable with it.
–
1969 4.2 Series 2 E Type, 1919 Ssssstanley
Brentwood Bay, B.C., Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
As luck would have it, the horn on my 68 doesn’t work. At least I don’t have to
worry about where it’s located.
Larry----- Original Message ----
From: IanCameron ianc@uvic.ca
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Thu, April 18, 2013 6:55:09 PM
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Horn Push Mechanism on Series II
In reply to a message from John M Holmes sent Mon 15 Apr 2013:
Just train yourself so that when panic occurs, you imagine
that the rim of the wheel is the size of a doughnut rather
than the skinny thing that it actually is. When you clench
the wheel, you’ll hit the horn.
The original message included these comments:
Exactly so ! That’s why I am not comfortable with it.
–
1969 4.2 Series 2 E Type, 1919 Ssssstanley
Brentwood Bay, B.C., Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–