[E-Type] Is your Speedometer reading low? You can fix it yourself

E-Type
21

G’Day again,
Oooops forgot to say you need to put an AC supply in the circuit, a simple
plug pack of the kind supplying the 24 V AC to activate the solenoids in a
garden watering system may be suitable.
Cheers, John in Oz—
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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22

In reply to a message from jembennett sent Sat 23 Apr 2016:

I have not tried this myself - but on another British car
forum one user made a degausser for the speedo magnets
using a Weller soldering gun as the power supply:

http://tinyurl.com/jfmy2nb--
The original message included these comments:

is there a non Variac way to power
the degausser ( magnet strength reduction ) which does not
involve the variable transformer?

–
Geo Hahn 1969 OTS 4.2
Mt Lemmon, Arizona, United States
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23

In reply to a message from Geo H sent Sat 23 Apr 2016:

Hi Geo, When I read this some time back, I figured that the
Weller was just used as an a/c switch, as the coil was
fitted instead of the solder tip! Maybe there was more to it
than I realized.–
The original message included these comments:

I have not tried this myself - but on another British car
forum one user made a degausser for the speedo magnets
using a Weller soldering gun as the power supply:
http://tinyurl.com/jfmy2nb
Geo Hahn 1969 OTS 4.2

–
John M Holmes 1973 E Type SIII Supra 5Sp, 70 SII OTS 05XJ8L
Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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24

In reply to a message from Carsten sent Thu 21 Apr 2016:

Hi All, Carsten has posed a very relevant point here. I have
been spinning Smiths speedometers for eons, triggered by the
Supra gearbox change in my SIII’‘E’‘!Now… based on a
tachometer ( very conveniently owned by a friend who never
uses it )I have calibrated two of my battery operated
drills.The DeWalt 18V DC970 ( new ) has nominal speeds as
given by the sticker of 1500 and 450 rpm. In reality its
1243 and 450 rpm…this is on a fully charged battery but
after 3 minutes of free spinning after a full charge.
Immediately after a full charge the free spinning speed is
higher but still below the ‘’ spec’'! A second old drill a
Makita 6221D 9.6V is nominally 700rpm, but when measured (
as above ) its 581 rpm!
Another point to consider is the condition of the speedo
spinner. Before attempting any ‘‘calibration’’ work, I always
dismantle the spinner and clean and oil the unit. In some
spinner units , 2 screws can be removed from the cross
piece, and the shaft removed for cleaning and oiling.In some
units 2 rivets need to be drilled out, and reassembly then
uses brass bolts in newly tapped holes. All this takes me
longer to write this paragraph than do!!–
The original message included these comments:

I am asking myself ''how to find a reliable drive motor -
is an electric drill accurate enough ? How to find out how
fast it rotates ?
Carsten

–
John M Holmes 1973 E Type SIII Supra 5Sp, 70 SII OTS 05XJ8L
Ontario, Canada
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25

In reply to a message from John M Holmes sent Sun 24 Apr 2016:

In-line mechanical ratio adapters are about $85 (made to
order). Add $65 to section your cable and add connectors
to fit the adapter, and it’s done. Not as elegant as
correcting the magnets, but seems simple and effective.–
Eric
DFW Texas, United States
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26

In reply to a message from 64etype sent Sun 24 Apr 2016:

Wouldn’t that also have the virtue of correcting the
odometer as well?–
The original message included these comments:

order). Add $65 to section your cable and add connectors
to fit the adapter, and it’s done. Not as elegant as
correcting the magnets, but seems simple and effective.

–
John Walker, 1969 E-Type Coupe
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27

In reply to a message from 64etype sent Sun 24 Apr 2016:

Eric,You can certainly use a ratio adaptor to get the
‘‘correct’’ TPM so the odo is correct.but this most probably
will not get the speedo accurate if the magnets are weak
after ageing.–
The original message included these comments:

In-line mechanical ratio adapters are about $85 (made to
order). Add $65 to section your cable and add connectors
to fit the adapter, and it’s done. Not as elegant as
correcting the magnets, but seems simple and effective.
Eric

–
John M Holmes 1973 E Type SIII Supra 5Sp, 70 SII OTS 05XJ8L
Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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28

In reply to a message from John M Holmes sent Sun 24 Apr 2016:

I believe they told me they could correct for speed
indication error, which is the primary objective. If the
odometer ended up with a resultant error I really wouldn’t
care.–
Eric
DFW Texas, United States
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29

In reply to a message from 64etype sent Sun 24 Apr 2016:

Hi Eric, it looks like we’ve gone full circle on the topic
of the ratio adapter… This is where all of this started
for me. Are you going to order an adapter spliced into a cable?
Regards
Anthony–
The original message included these comments:

I believe they told me they could correct for speed
indication error, which is the primary objective. If the
odometer ended up with a resultant error I really wouldn’t

–
Anthony, Toronto Ontario, 69 OTS
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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30

In reply to a message from EtypeLvr sent Sun 24 Apr 2016:

Depends how much total error I have when I finally get the
pig on the road…speedo error if any, 3.07 gears and
whichever tire I can squeeze in the rear opening… 215/65,
I think. If it’s gross, I’ll probably go the adapter
route. Won’t fit in the gap directly behind the
speedometer, but it looks like it would be virtually
invisible in the space under the brake booster/cylinder
assembly (S1). Adjusting the magnets is beyond my electrical skill set. Very clever though.
electrical skill set. Very clever though.–
The original message included these comments:

for me. Are you going to order an adapter spliced into a cable?

–
Eric
DFW Texas, United States
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31

In reply to a message from 64etype sent Sun 24 Apr 2016:

I just started going down the drill route.

Actually, it’s my 1954 Citroen light 15, but same
principle. Tach stuck, open + dismantle, so adjustment it
needs…

The rpm measurement tool (30 USD from amazon, made by
UniT, looks reliable, UT-371) is not yet here, but I tried
to find out how many wheel rpms and speedo drive rpms
occur at 60 km/h:

Wheel sourround is 2,004 mtrs / rot. 60 km/h is 60.000
mtrs/h = 1000mtrs/minute. Thus 499 rotations of the wheels
in one minute is 60 km/h.

Then, turning the wheel looking at the speedo string
shaft, every 18 rotations of the wheel the self-made
indicator needle on the speedo string comes back in the
same place. So, per 1 wheel Rotation it does 1+ 1/18
rotations.

That means (1+1/18)x499 is the number of rotations of the
speedo string at 60 km/h. That is 527 string rot for 1000
mtrs in 1 minute.

Now, will try on from this point, after the Uni-T is
here…with either Dremel or one of my drills. All you
need is a ‘‘ccw-enabled’’ drill…the cw ones will kill the
speedo in a second, pushing the needle the wrong way
round.

Carsten–
Restoration in progress: 1966 2+2 LHD manual
Goettingen, Germany
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32

In reply to a message from Carsten sent Sat 30 Apr 2016:

Oh and I discovered a second methond which may be easier,
it depends: you can use a modern bike speedo. They cost 15
Euros something, clip the magnet to the car rim, wire and
look as you go. But this method means you have to look on
it and fiddle the speedo on the road, which I don’t like.
And fitting it’s counter against the magnet may be tricky
because the wheel is sprung against the chassis.

But you can actually enter wheel sourround like my 2.004
mtrs in these devices which makes it instantly correct.

Maybe you can put the magnet on the drive or even
propshaft + adapt the diameter figure (propshaft fitting
only, driveshaft is the same).

Carsten–
Restoration in progress: 1966 2+2 LHD manual
Goettingen, Germany
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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33

In reply to a message from Carsten sent Sat 30 Apr 2016:

Carsten,

how do you arrive the circumference of 2.004 m? Did you
actually measure that, or derive from the tire data? And
at which tire pressure. Once I get new tires I’m gonna
have to fiddle with this, since I still have 3.54 Dif and
have installed a km/h speedo for 3.07.

Martin–
The original message included these comments:

But you can actually enter wheel sourround like my 2.004

–
Martin Scherz 1970 OTS 4.2
Esslingen, Germany
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34

In reply to a message from MartinScherz sent Sun 1 May 2016:

Hi Martin,

I clearly wrote that this time its not E-type but Citroen
11 CV from 1954 related, I am just using the same method
here.

The Citroen has a wheel size of 165x400, which according
to the factory gives 2.004 mtrs circumference / Umfang.

I mean if this way works, next is my E-type speedo of
course, but the Citroen is the test mule, they made 10
times as mus as E-types, so speedos are 40 Euros on ebay
if you need one. Not 400.

I do believe that Heynes did have a very good look at the
Citroen when he did the front suspension on the E-type. It
is in fact very similar, and came out in 1934 !, so I
think it was / is a milestone, having been copied.

Carsten–
Restoration in progress: 1966 2+2 LHD manual
Goettingen, Germany
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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35

In reply to a message from Carsten sent Sun 1 May 2016:

Well Jaguar had been using it for thirteen years by the
time thry launched the E-type…–
The original message included these comments:

I do believe that Heynes did have a very good look at the
Citroen when he did the front suspension on the E-type. It

–
66 ‘UberLynx’ D, 70 FHC, 79 S2 XJ12L, 97 XJ6L
Gaithersburg, Maryland, United States
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36

In reply to a message from PeterCrespin sent Sun 1 May 2016:

They both have A-Arms upper and lower, both have a
vertical longitudinal engine, and torsion bars in
longitudinal direction. Other cars of the time had them
left-right.

1934 (and FWD !) vs. 1948…

Carsten–
Restoration in progress: 1966 2+2 LHD manual
Goettingen, Germany
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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