[E-Type] Is your Speedometer reading low? You can fix it yourself

I’ve been working on a simple procedure to re-calibrate the
speedometer in my E-Type and I’d like to share this
information. Like many others, my speedometer was reading
quite low.

I’ve manged to come up with some procedural steps using
readily available materials and equipment and it’s all
fairly repeatable. Overall, in my mind, it can’t get much
simpler.

With this procedure, I was able to re-calibrate my
speedometer, while it was running, to read 60 MPH with 1312
RPM input. And what’s most important, it’s not just
accurate at 60 MPH, it’s accurate across the entire dial
approx +/- 1 MPH

Click on the link below, review it, and let me know if you
have any questions.

This is almost as easy as magnetizing a screwdriver.

http://tinyurl.com/jj6277y

B. Anthony Penna–
Anthony, Toronto Ontario, 69 OTS
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So that’s 45mph per 1000 engine rpm?? Or perhaps that 1312 is rpm of
the speedo input cable/drive??On Thu, Apr 21, 2016 at 3:03 PM, EtypeLvr apenna@daleena.com wrote:

I’ve been working on a simple procedure to re-calibrate the
speedometer in my E-Type and I’d like to share this
information. Like many others, my speedometer was reading
quite low.

I’ve manged to come up with some procedural steps using
readily available materials and equipment and it’s all
fairly repeatable. Overall, in my mind, it can’t get much
simpler.

With this procedure, I was able to re-calibrate my
speedometer, while it was running, to read 60 MPH with 1312
RPM input. And what’s most important, it’s not just
accurate at 60 MPH, it’s accurate across the entire dial
approx +/- 1 MPH

Click on the link below, review it, and let me know if you
have any questions.

This is almost as easy as magnetizing a screwdriver.

Bench Calibrating the Speedometer in the E-Type.pdf - Google Drive

B. Anthony Penna

Anthony, Toronto Ontario, 69 OTS
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Les…'68 S1.5 2+2


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In reply to a message from Les Halls sent Thu 21 Apr 2016:

It’s 45.7 MPH because you may be turning the cable at 1000
RPM. If you are turning the cable at 1312 RPM, on a 1312
Speedometer, it will read 60 MPH. Look at the formula.

You should read Anthony Rhodes article.

Regards
Anthony–
Anthony, Toronto Ontario, 69 OTS
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OK, so this isn’t engine rpm.On Thu, Apr 21, 2016 at 4:53 PM, EtypeLvr apenna@daleena.com wrote:

In reply to a message from Les Halls sent Thu 21 Apr 2016:

It’s 45.7 MPH because you may be turning the cable at 1000
RPM. If you are turning the cable at 1312 RPM, on a 1312
Speedometer, it will read 60 MPH. Look at the formula.

You should read Anthony Rhodes article.

Regards
Anthony

Anthony, Toronto Ontario, 69 OTS
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Les…'68 S1.5 2+2


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Very interesting Anthony, lot of faffing about though…variac
req’d…make a coil…get stack of magnets…bugger around
magnetising/demagnetising…get input drive.

Nice little project but not something I’d screw around
with…might though if I already had all the required
stuff/parts.

Way to go mate!On Thu, Apr 21, 2016 at 3:03 PM, EtypeLvr apenna@daleena.com wrote:

I’ve been working on a simple procedure to re-calibrate the
speedometer in my E-Type and I’d like to share this
information. Like many others, my speedometer was reading
quite low.

I’ve manged to come up with some procedural steps using
readily available materials and equipment and it’s all
fairly repeatable. Overall, in my mind, it can’t get much
simpler.

With this procedure, I was able to re-calibrate my
speedometer, while it was running, to read 60 MPH with 1312
RPM input. And what’s most important, it’s not just
accurate at 60 MPH, it’s accurate across the entire dial
approx +/- 1 MPH

Click on the link below, review it, and let me know if you
have any questions.

This is almost as easy as magnetizing a screwdriver.

Bench Calibrating the Speedometer in the E-Type.pdf - Google Drive

B. Anthony Penna

Anthony, Toronto Ontario, 69 OTS
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Les…'68 S1.5 2+2


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In reply to a message from Les Halls sent Thu 21 Apr 2016:

Correct, not engine RPM but the RPM of the actual
speedometer cable out of the right angle drive, which
connects to the transmission.–
The original message included these comments:

OK, so this isn’t engine rpm.


Anthony, Toronto Ontario, 69 OTS
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In reply to a message from EtypeLvr sent Thu 21 Apr 2016:

Brilliant! I might have to study this and give it a go but
it does seem like a big task to setup the degaussing
operation. Maybe not? Would you expect the recalibrated
magnets to be stable for a long time?–
Craig Gilbert - '68 E-Type FHC - turned the corner!
Birmingham, AL, United States
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In reply to a message from craig_g sent Thu 21 Apr 2016:

Thanks Craig
Actually if you over magnetize it, and don’t want to set up
a degaussing coil, take it apart and move the magnets close
together S to S and N to N and see if it weakens it
slightly. Don’t let them touch. But that would be real
trial and error until you get the strength of the
speedometer magnet just right. I didn’t try this but I’m
looking for volunteers. -:slight_smile:

As for stability, It should last quite a while.–
The original message included these comments:

Brilliant! I might have to study this and give it a go but
it does seem like a big task to setup the degaussing
operation. Maybe not? Would you expect the recalibrated
magnets to be stable for a long time?


Anthony, Toronto Ontario, 69 OTS
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In reply to a message from EtypeLvr sent Thu 21 Apr 2016:

I am asking myself ''how to find a reliable drive motor -
is an electric drill accurate enough ? How to find out how
fast it rotates ?

I do have a decent multimeter, so I thought I’d fit a
neodym magnet on the front end rotating part, make a small
coil, let the drill run and measure frequency with my
multimeter ?

Carsten–
Restoration in progress: 1966 2+2 LHD manual
Goettingen, Germany
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In reply to a message from Carsten sent Thu 21 Apr 2016:

You can try that then calculate RPM from Hz. I used a hand
held optical tachometer. Most cordless drills turn in the
1200 to 1400 RPM range, which is close enough. Once you
establish the RPM of your drill, your MPH calibrating target
speed can be calculated from the simple formula at the
bottom of page 6.

60*drill RPM/TPM of your speedometer = MPH

Once you have established your target MPH, degauss to that
speed on the dial driving the speedometer with your drill.

But remember, drive the speedometer with your drill counter
clock wise.–
The original message included these comments:

I am asking myself ''how to find a reliable drive motor -
is an electric drill accurate enough ? How to find out how
fast it rotates ?
I do have a decent multimeter, so I thought I’d fit a
neodym magnet on the front end rotating part, make a small
coil, let the drill run and measure frequency with my
multimeter ?


Anthony, Toronto Ontario, 69 OTS
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In reply to a message from Les Halls sent Thu 21 Apr 2016:

Hi Les, I have talked to Anthony about this project, and i
do believe that he has hit on the actual method used in the
industry to get the speedo readings exactly correct, and
which seems now not to be implemented in some speedo resto
workshops. I intend to get this set up in my workshop ,
later in May. As it happens have a variac,but I expect most
folks do not. Anthony, is there a non Variac way to power
the degausser ( magnet strength reduction ) which does not
involve the variable transformer?–
The original message included these comments:

Very interesting Anthony, lot of faffing about though…variac
req’d…make a coil…get stack of magnets…bugger around
magnetising/demagnetising…get input drive.
Nice little project but not something I’d screw around
with…might though if I already had all the required
stuff/parts.
Way to go mate!


John M Holmes 1973 E Type SIII Supra 5Sp, 70 SII OTS 05XJ8L
Ontario, Canada
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In reply to a message from John M Holmes sent Fri 22 Apr 2016:

I am tremendously impressed by Anthony’s work! I did mine in
a much simpler fashion that works well enough for me. I just
moved the needle. Right, it’s only accurate at 60 mph but
that’s close enough for ‘government work’. Of course I now
feel like a DPO.
Cheers,
LLynn–
The original message included these comments:

Hi Les, I have talked to Anthony about this project, and i
do believe that he has hit on the actual method used in the
industry to get the speedo readings exactly correct, and
which seems now not to be implemented in some speedo resto
workshops. I intend to get this set up in my workshop ,
later in May. As it happens have a variac,but I expect most
folks do not. Anthony, is there a non Variac way to power
the degausser ( magnet strength reduction ) which does not
involve the variable transformer?


Lynn G.
68/85 ots, 73 2+2, Boise, Id., United States
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In reply to a message from L.Lynn sent Fri 22 Apr 2016:

This is something I’d do when all other things were taken
care of. I do appreciate an accurate speedo but not enough
to spend too much time on it.
Once I’ve compared my speedo with the transcript from
local law enforcement and/or my mobile phone app, im ok
with knowing the difference and applying accordingly.
Interesting project though.–
Ole-XKE S3 OTS 4sp w.OD
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In reply to a message from Ole-XKE1974 sent Fri 22 Apr 2016:

Thank you all for your kind comments. I know it’s a bit of
work. But you see, and John can attest to this, up here in
Ontario, we must keep ourselves busy throughout the winter
months! Notwithstanding, I have always had a fascination
with all things mechanical and electrical as far back as my
earliest memories, and I found this project quite amusing.

So if you want a simpler method without a Variac, try
switching it on for half a second with a 12 V transformer
and no variac. If that doesn’t do it, see if you can get a
transformer that is double the voltage and try that for a
brief second. Try longer and see if it works. If to reduce
it too much, re-magnetize it and try again. It’s really very
simple and you can’t damage it.–
Anthony, Toronto Ontario, 69 OTS
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In reply to a message from EtypeLvr sent Fri 22 Apr 2016:

Anthony,

I am a dummy when it comes to electronics so here is a dumb
question: If I have it right, once you’re set up with the
drill spinning the cable at 1400 rpm you slowly increase the
voltage output of the variac until the speedometer equals
your calculated, calibrated speed and then cut the power off
quickly.

Is there a voltage at which the speedometer starts to drop
at a slow speed and would it continue to drop if you held
that voltage and, if so, what might that voltage be? If that
can be determined could one cut out the variac and simply
power a step down transformer?

I’m guessing the voltage can’t be determined and/or the
degaussing effect is not linear. But I’m not opposed to
asking dumb questions!–
Craig Gilbert - '68 E-Type FHC - turned the corner!
Birmingham, AL, United States
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In reply to a message from craig_g sent Fri 22 Apr 2016:

Hi Craig, not dumb questions at all! If I knew the correct
voltage for every case, for every degaussing coil, to reduce
the magnetism by the exact amount to get to a specific
target MPH, I would open an instrument repair shop. Every
setup will be different and will likely require different
degree of degausing, hence the need to vary the level of
degaussing by varying the AC voltage to it with a variac.

I have not tried this but another possible way to apply a
varying level of degaussing is to mount the speedometer on
it’s cable approx 12’’ above the degaussing coil. Start the
drill, apply the fixed 30 to 60 volts AC to the degaussing
coil. Then, with the coil energized, slowly raise the coil
toward the bottom of the speedometer where the magnet is
spinning and watch the MPH needle display. When you reach
your target MPH, switch off the voltage or quickly lower the
coil. If you do this, just be sure to insulate yourself
from the coil and whatever you do, isolate the coil (and
yourself) electrically from the 120 V AC power line with a
step down transformer. Safety first, because you will want
to be around to enjoy your new calibrated speedometer!

If you try it, let me know. And remember, if you over
degauss, re-magnetize and apply less degaussing. I tried
mine over and over again and repeated the test at least 5 times.

The last test I did was to magnetize my speedometer magnet
to meet an 1120 TPM. The reason I went for 1120 TPM is that
I am converting my diff from a 3.54 to a 3.07. With a 3.07
diff, the display should read 60 MPH at 1120 TPM (or RPM) So
after magnetizing, spinning up the speedometer with my 1400
RPM drill, it was reading 76 MPH. The target for the 1120 is
60*1400/1120 = 75 MPH So, my target MPH was 75 and the
speedometer was reading 76 MPH, close enough for me. I left
it alone and did not bother to degausse. I was lucky. Maybe
I’ll loose that 1 MPH in 5 or so years. Who knows?

So the inverse to your question of how much degaussing does
it take to lower it to your target MPH is, how much
magnetizing does it need to raise it to your target MPH.

I hope this helps explain it.–
The original message included these comments:

I’m guessing the voltage can’t be determined and/or the
degaussing effect is not linear. But I’m not opposed to
asking dumb questions!


Anthony, Toronto Ontario, 69 OTS
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In reply to a message from EtypeLvr sent Fri 22 Apr 2016:

A simple elegant solution, I like it. So I started with the
first post, read the attachment and immediately had the
same concern Carsten had; how do you verify the RPM of
whatever you are using to drive the speedo cable. I for one
don’t own any kind of optical or mechanical device for
measuring drill motor RPM.

Then it hit me; it may not matter if you can measure it. .
Tell me if I’m wrong.

Say you are recalibrating because you replaced your 3.54
diff with a 3.07. You don’t need to know the Drill’s RPM
as long as you can duplicate it’s speed over various runs.
If your drill runs at full speed and it registers 65 mph on
the speedometer you can use some simple math to determine
the speed the it ought to register with a 3.07 diff at the
same RPM (just about 75 MPH if I did the math right) and
then trial and error your way to that displayed speed. Tape
the trigger down on the drill and plug into a switchable
power strip to turn the drill on and off.

The only uncontrollable variable I see in this is a voltage
drop in your house current.–
John Walker, 1969 E-Type Coupe
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In reply to a message from John Walker sent Fri 22 Apr 2016:

Hi John, if I understand you correctly, this may work if you
start out with a Speedometer that is already calibrated with
a 3.54 diff @ 1312 showing 60 MPH and you are changing the
diff to another known ratio such as 3.07. From that you
should be able to calculate the RPM of the motor you are
using to drive the speedometer by observing it’s MPH and
working backwards toward the RPM of the drill.

Voltage drop in house current has no bearing on this.

For my measurements, I purchased an inexpensive $15.00 EBay
optical tach and compared it to a more expensive unit that I
borrowed and it works fine. Although I used the more
expensive one for most of my tests. Either one would work.
http://tinyurl.com/jr8m88y--
Anthony, Toronto Ontario, 69 OTS
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In reply to a message from EtypeLvr sent Fri 22 Apr 2016:

One of the circuits in our house was fed by a circuit
breaker that fit loosely on the bas that fed power to it.
Plug something with a motor into that circuit and you could
hear the sound of the motor change on it’s own; sounded
like it would speed up and slow down. I had an electrician
in and he measured the voltage on that circuit, it was low
and not constant. He replaced a couple of breakers and all
is well.

Great tip about the optical tach, I had no idea they were
that cheap. Thanks–
The original message included these comments:

Voltage drop in house current has no bearing on this.
For my measurements, I purchased an inexpensive $15.00 EBay
optical tach and compared it to a more expensive unit that I
borrowed and it works fine. Although I used the more
expensive one for most of my tests. Either one would work.
http://tinyurl.com/jr8m88y


John Walker, 1969 E-Type Coupe
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original:
is there a non Variac way to power
the degausser ( magnet strength reduction ) which does not
involve the variable transformer?

G,Day John,
Theoretically yes, but I have never tried it. The variac starts with a
reasonably high current AC through the degaussing coil and then you can turn
the knob and reduce it to zero. Presumably you could wind some (thinner the
better - most bee keeping equipment shops stock reels of the stuff) nichrome
wire round a “long” bit of 4x2 wood to make a really long wire coil (turns
not touching each other), connect one end of nichrome wire to your
degaussing coil and then wipe the other end of degaussing coil wire along
your nichrome wire coil starting at the end joined to degaussing coil and
leaving it at other end not connected to anything (works same way as the
fuel contents sender in the fuel tank but with AC instead of DC). Your
objective is to start with a high current and end with virtually no current
as the resistance increases along your nichrome wire coil. Bits I do not
know/unable to guess are what AC voltage would be appropriate and how fast
to wipe along your nichrome coil. Another cheapskate strategy would be to
get an ‘old’ television with a cathode tube screen and recover the variac
circuit bits and original mains transformer supplying the variac from it.
The variac circuit bits are joined to each end of the degaussing coil
wrapped around the perimeter of the TV screen (made of varnish insulated
copper wire, looks just like one in the pics posted by Anthony but of course
very much larger to go round the screen). The TV one runs very briefly each
time telly is turned on, if you have such a working telly, while it is on
put a magnet up close to the screen and see the picture distort, turn it off
and turn on again and see degaussing coil clear the distortion (a well known
party trick to surreptitiously distort a telly picture then be the hero and
fix it way back in my miss-spent youth). Presumably you could use your nice
new rare earth magnets purchased to recalibrate your speedo to magnetise a
flat strip of steel - old hacksaw blade (measure strength by seeing how long
a string of pins can be hung off the end of it after stroking it once, twice
etc) and then experiment with degaussing it (check change by number of pins
in a hanging string - you need to start with un-magnetised pins each time of
course).
Cheers, John B. 67 2+2 in Oz—
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