I just rebuilt my 66 4.2 and am wondering what weight engine oil I
should run to break in my engine. Thanks Ken 66 2+2–
ktucker8
Folsom/Ca, United States
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I got quite a few different views when I asked this question last
spring when I started mine up for the first time, the consensus
seemed to be to use the same oil you would run in the car after the
break in period. I would use an oil with ZDDP in it during the break
in and Valvoine Racing Motor oil 20-50 meets all the new car
standards plus it has the ZDDP in it. We have had several threads
about ZDDP and if you interested let me know and I will send you a
link to a web site that discusses it ad nauseam.
Cheers,
LynnOn Feb 1, 2007, at 4:25 PM, ktucker8 wrote:
I just rebuilt my 66 4.2 and am wondering what weight engine oil I
should run to break in my engine. Thanks Ken 66 2+2ktucker8
Folsom/Ca, United States
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Lynn G
73 2+2 (Pearle)
68 OTS (Emmy)
Boise, ID USA
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In reply to a message from Lynn Gardner sent Fri 2 Feb 2007:
Get what’s on sale, and has an API rating of SG or higher.
It simply does not matter that much. People spend waaaaay
too much time huffing about this oil bidness! I agree that
oils which stil contain ZDDP are better, but in the long
run, wih adequate oil/filter change intervals, the consensus
seems to say that you’ll be just fine with any good grade of
engine oil.
The BEST thing you can do is to go to a modern spin-on
filter, for ease of changing it and for better filtration.
If you really wish to gett anal about filters, do what a
lot of race cars do: Use an Oberg filter. Not easy to
maintenance but VERY good filtration AND you get to see
what’s been filered out.
It can scare you what you see on first oil changes in them!–
The original message included these comments:
I just rebuilt my 66 4.2 and am wondering what weight engine oil I
should run to break in my engine. Thanks Ken 66 2+2
–
Paul Wigton, '60 DKW 1000SP, '57 Chrysler Imperial, Tweety!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
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BUT… Don’t break in with synthetic.
LLoyd@YouAlreadyKnewThat, Huh?.com–
My driveway is long enough that you can appreciate the conflict between the desire for privacy and the terror of being completely lost .
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Lynn Gardner lgardner28@cableone.net
I got quite a few different views when I asked this question last
spring when I started mine up for the first time, the consensus
seemed to be to use the same oil …
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Ahhh… yes, this reminds me…
I usually use the cheapest oil for break-in because you run it only about 500 miles anyway. Then you change oil and filter because there are always a metal fileing or two, and no way can you keep the thing entirely clean while rebuilding in a garage.
LLoyd–
My driveway is long enough that you can appreciate the conflict between the desire for privacy and the terror of being completely lost .
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: “Wiggles” vrooomie@fastmail.fm
In reply to a message from Lynn Gardner sent Fri 2 Feb 2007:
Get what’s on sale, and has an API rating of SG or higher.
It simply does not matter that much. People spend waaaaay
too much time huffing about this oil bidness! I agree that
oils which stil contain ZDDP are better, but in the long
run, wih adequate oil/filter change intervals, the consensus
seems to say that you’ll be …
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In reply to a message from soothsayer1@comcast.net sent Fri 2 Feb 2007:
Thanks, Schmeds! I left that part out…VERY important point!–
The original message included these comments:
BUT… Don’t break in with synthetic.
LLoyd@YouAlreadyKnewThat, Huh?.com
–
Paul Wigton, '60 DKW 1000SP, '57 Chrysler Imperial, Tweety!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
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In reply to a message from Wiggles sent Fri 2 Feb 2007:
Thanks For the tips! I’ll try the Valvoline 20wt/50 and change it
at 500 miles!My garage clean during the rebuild? Not a chance! And
yes I already coverted to the spin on filter along with a Mallory
Dizzy!
Ken 66 2+2–
The original message included these comments:
Thanks, Schmeds! I left that part out…VERY important point!
–
ktucker8
Folsom/Ca, United States
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In reply to a message from ktucker8 sent Fri 2 Feb 2007:
Here is a copy of the text I received from Castrol Technical dept
for their oil recommendations:
Jaguar E Type 4.2 Manual
Hi Mike,
As discussed the grades that would be suitable for the Jag are.
Engine Tection 15W-40 or GTX 15W-40 or Formula RS
10W-60
Gear Box Dynadrive or EP 90
Rear Axle Hypoy LS 90
Please don’t hesitate to contact me if you require any
additional data.>Regards
Geoff Briggs
Regional Engineer
BP Castrol Commercial Lubricants
–
m16ckh
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In reply to a message from soothsayer1@comcast.net sent Fri 2 Feb 2007:
Lloyd,
That also was the recommendation I received for the oil to
use for the first 500 miles - cheapest you can get, but
aleady had GTX in there. The rationale was that the oil
would protect the bearings etc. but also allow the rings to
seat. The other recommendation was to give it occasional
bursts when fully warmed up at WOT to 4000 rpm again to help
seat the compression rings. Complied with that request
without question.
Regards
Keith–
The original message included these comments:
Ahhh… yes, this reminds me…
I usually use the cheapest oil for break-in because you run it only about 500 miles anyway. Then you change oil and filter because there are always a metal fileing or two, and no way can you keep the thing entirely clean while rebuilding in a garage.
–
Keith Bertenshaw
Rockaway, NJ, United States
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