Hello everyone,
I took the twin strombergs and manifold off the car last night.
Manifold was a little stubborn coming off the block, but it took me
two hours to get the thermostat housing off the old manifold. Very
rusty studs.
My question: The intake gasket that came off the car almost felt
like metal, like a head gasket. It was thick and stiff. The
replacement that I got was really thin and flimsy. It looked like
it had been folded, and when I went to put it in place, it tore at
one of the stud holes. The holes didn’t line up very well with the
studs. So, I have ordered another from a different vendor (XK’s
Unlt.). Should I use any silicone or other sealant on this
gasket? It is so narrow around the studs, I’m worried about leaks.
Is there a brand or source of gaskets that you guys prefer? Thanks
for the info!–
Mark - '68 FHC, '56 Bel Air, '69 & '72 Midget, '67 HD FLH
Spokane, WA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from markmo sent Mon 30 Oct 2006:
Given you had trouble getting the old manifold off, I would assume
the mounting surface of your head is not perfect. If the mating
surfaces of the head and the new manifold are perfect, just about
any gasket, installed dry, will do. However, my cars have NOT had
perfectly smooth mating surfaces and I have had bad luck with metal
gaskets and dry gaskets. I have, however, had outsanding luck by
using composite material gaskets in conjunction with a light coat
of spray-on copper gasket sealer (available at your local NAPA or
other car parts supplier).
After you assemble everything and put your coolant in, let the car
sit for an hour or two. Then check the bottom edge of the manifold
gasket for any seepage. Then peer into each of the carbs to make
sure there is no colant seeping into the carbs from the manifold
gasket. If it does, it will run down away from the engine and pool
up in your carbs (ask me how I know).
So, the purists will say ‘‘no sealant required.’’ I say, ‘‘use some
copper spray gasket sealant’’ and you will be certain to not be
pulling it all apart again for a re-do.–
TomP (62 OTS, 66 2+2, 49 MGTC, 31 MG-M, 99 Z3)
El Dorado Hills (Sac), CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from markmo sent Mon 30 Oct 2006:
Mark, Here’s what I did when I converted.
I double nuted all the studs out. If they’re really rusty and the
threads don’t take a nut smoothly, go to NAPA and treat your self
to new studs. While your there, pick up one of their aluminum
surfacing tools. Its a round disc with little rubber fingers. Into
your drill with it. You’ll be amazed how well it prepares an
aluminum surface. Naturally you stuff rags in the ports, and
passages. I have a shop vac that will pick up small children, so I
gave the ports the once over with that too.
Back in with the studs, I used anti-seize on the head side. My ‘‘goo
of choice’’ is hylomar around every port and passage.
Retighten all nuts after warm up. Then again in a few days. Good
luck with the 2’nd one from the rear, bottom row!
No leaks so far.
Dave–
1969 BRG OTS
Skaneateles, NY, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–