Hello everyone,
I selected 6x15 Dayton tubeless wheels for my 70 ots, and
mounted 205/70 Dunlops after carefully reading our archives
regarding the endless thread of tire sizes. I immediately
had to remove the bumpstops and cut off the brackets, and
now my tire sidewall rubs the rear antisway bar where it
makes a 110 degree turn toward it’s rear link. How did you
guys deal with this problem? Is the Series III bar a better
fit (is it even different) in this application? If the bends
were 90 degrees, I think it would fit.
Thanks for the input,
Stu Hall–
70 XKE, 52 XK120fhc
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In reply to a message from Stu Hall sent Mon 19 Apr 2004:
Stu
215x65x15 yoko avs on Dayton 6’‘x15’’. 3/4 to 1’’ clearance: tire to
sway bar. (Bumpstops had to go.) Check both sides to see if they’re
equal.
Something doesn’t make sense.
Some guys run w/o the rear bar with no ill effects.
Dave / 69 ots–
David Ahlers
Skaneateles, NY, United States
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In reply to a message from David Ahlers sent Tue 20 Apr 2004:
Stu:
I mounted Pirelli P4000 tires (205-70-R15) on 6 x 15 Daytons
and just slipped them on my ‘71 S2 with no modifications
whatsoever. There is very little clearance between the outer edge
of the rear tires and the wheel wells (about 3/4’’) but nothing rubs.–
1971 4.2L S2 OTS
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There is no Series III bar, they eliminated it. You can do the same, many
have.
The question is, at what point do you get rubbing? The only place you
should be vulnerable to this problem is at the extreme top and bottom of
suspension travel. If the bar rubs at the neutral position, you have some
sort of mangled bar.
The geometry of the rear axle allows exactly enough freedom of motion to
allow the wheel to come to full drop, or be raised fully, without
interference. Things that can throw that off: obviously, too wide tires,
but I’ve run wider tires than 205’s on 6" Daytons without problem. Your
shock absorbers may allow too much travel. Current shocks designs are often
generic, the specific range of motion for the Jaguar rear isn’t necessarily
considered. Your droplink bushings may too hard, or the links may be bent:
the bar actually bows outwards if there isn’t enough compliance in the
bushing. You can try using rod ends in place of the stock drop links, which
would allow you to adjust the neutral position of the bar.
Mike Frank
At 05:17 PM 4/19/2004, you wrote:
and
now my tire sidewall rubs the rear antisway bar where it
makes a 110 degree turn toward it’s rear link. How did you
guys deal with this problem? Is the Series III bar a better
fit (is it even different) in this application?
Search the archives & forums - http://search.jag-lovers.org/
Subscription changes - http://www.jag-lovers.com/cgi-bin/majordomo
I agree with Dave, something is wrong. I have never heard of someone being
required to grind away the rear bumpstop mounts in order to get proper
clearance with your wheel combination, let alone the tires interfering with
the rear sway bar.
I am running MWS 15x6.5 centerlace wheel with 215-65 yokos, bumpstop mounts
still in place and full wheelwell lips. No clearance problems. I just
recently removed my rear swaybar, but have not yet run the car with that mod
(it was not necessary for clearance reasons).
Back to clearance issues, a 205/70 is MWS’ warranted fitment for my wheel,
and I suspect that if Dayton has a similar spec, that a 205/70 is a
warranted, or at least recommended, fitment for their wheel as well.
The only occasion where I have heard of fitment problems with a such a
relatively common wheel combination (205/70’s and 15x6 Daytons) was a car
that had some evidence of being hit in the rear at some point in its life.
I hope that is not your problem.
Jim
67 FHC
Dave wrote:
Something doesn’t make sense.
Some guys run w/o the rear bar with no ill effects.
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