Helping a friend with a S1 car from a distance. He’s in
another location and I’m nowhere near the car.
We are trying to determine what dims the instrument lights
on his S1 car? On the schematic we’re looking at, there
appears to be a dropping resistor behind the Bright/Dim
switch? Is that correct? Where exactly is it mounted and
located?
Thanks–
Anthony, Toronto Ontario, 69 OTS
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from EtypeLvr sent Sat 9 Jan 2016:
IIRC it’s integral to the switch rather than separate.
Jerry–
The original message included these comments:
on his S1 car? On the schematic we’re looking at, there
appears to be a dropping resistor behind the Bright/Dim
switch? Is that correct? Where exactly is it mounted and
located?
–
Jerry Mouton '64 FHC 889791 ‘MIK Jaguar’
Palo Alto, California, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from EtypeLvr sent Sat 9 Jan 2016:
IIRC it’s integral to the switch rather than separate.
Jerry
The original message included these comments:
on his S1 car? On the schematic we’re looking at, there
appears to be a dropping resistor behind the Bright/Dim
switch? Is that correct? Where exactly is it mounted and
located?On my S2, there’s a resistor on the fold down panel, not far from the switch. I never dim the lights because the resistor smells when it heats up. Mike Frank At 11:31 PM 1/9/2016, you wrote:
In reply to a message from mouton sent Sat 9 Jan 2016:
Thanks Jerry, what did you use to dim your LED’s in your S1
instruments? Or did you leave it as it was and not modify
the DIM switch?–
The original message included these comments:
In reply to a message from EtypeLvr sent Sat 9 Jan 2016:
IIRC it’s integral to the switch rather than separate.
–
Anthony, Toronto Ontario, 69 OTS
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from EtypeLvr sent Sun 10 Jan 2016:
Anthony,
I left it as-is. The result is that switching to ‘‘DIM’’
does dim the LEDs but not very much. More resistance as
your friend is searching for would likely help though
perhaps LEDs react differently to lower voltage. I’m very
happy with mine as-is and I don’t really need dimmer co
control. Besides, I’ll rarely take it out in the dark.
Jerry–
Jerry Mouton '64 FHC 889791 ‘MIK Jaguar’
Palo Alto, California, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from EtypeLvr sent Sun 10 Jan 2016:
Unless you’ve upgraded to LED’s, does anyone even use the
dim position on the switch? The original lights are way too
dim even on the ‘‘bright’’ setting. I can’t imagine that the
concours judges could tell the difference between the two
settings during daylight, so why would anyone worry whether
the dim setting cuts the output?–
Mark 1E14988 67 OTS, 2002 VDP
Burke, VA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from mgordon sent Sun 10 Jan 2016:
Seriously, unless there were a midnight concours, no judge
could possibly tell even that all the lights worked without
disassembling the dash – which is forbidden.
Jerry–
Jerry Mouton '64 FHC 889791 ‘MIK Jaguar’
Palo Alto, California, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
To achieve balance for my selection of LEDs I ended up
putting the tach and speedo on a separate LED dimmer. Then
I completely bypassed the panel lights switch with a ‘‘Y’’
jumper to the parking lights position on the big rotary
switch. So all panel lights (LED) now come on with the
parking lights. The vacant switch position will probably
be assigned to a fuel pump or ignition cutoff function.–
Eric
DFW Texas, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from 64etype sent Sun 10 Jan 2016:
Thanks Eric but the link didn’t work.
Yes Jerry I agree but since I am trying to help someone work
this out, I thought I’d try to at least help him get the DIM
function to work a bit better in the event he ends up doing
some night driving on a dark HWY. I can imagine that
Brighter would be great for city driving.
I’ve searched many posts and found quite a bit of reading on
the subject of LED’s and learned there are many ways to go
about installing LED’s in these instruments. Some use screw
in replacements, some use peel and stick LED strips mounted
in the instrument buckets. But I failed to discover anything
meaningful that described how members managed to accomplish
dimming them on S1. There’s also lot’s of info on S2 dimming
with the resistor mounted on the drop-down panel as with my
car.
Eric, when I converted my S2 dash to LED’s I used screw-in
LED replacements. I was pleased to see that the instruments
were much brighter but the Tach turned out to be twice as
bright as the Speedo. (I did this testing with the complete
dash out of the car. I had it mocked-up on my test bench) My
solution was to back out the Tach LED’s in their push-in
holders until the light level of the Tach matched the rest
of the instruments. Then I fixed these two in place with
1/2’’ heatshrink slid over the holders. They still get a good
electrical ground but aren’t going anywhere. To dim my S2
instruments, I substituted the panel resistor with a string
1A diodes wired in series until I had DIM simulated for
reasonable HWY driving conditions away from city lights.
Thanks everyone–
The original message included these comments:
This string from the UK forum might be helpful for an LED se
setup… http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?t=
t=2859&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
To achieve balance for my selection of LEDs I ended up
putting the tach and speedo on a separate LED dimmer. Then
–
Anthony, Toronto Ontario, 69 OTS
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from 64etype sent Sun 10 Jan 2016:
It may be slightly heretical to some, but I simply terminated the
RB wire at the sidelight switch and with no dimmer. The act of
turning on any of the lights now also turns on the panel lights. I
figured that if you need one, you probably need the other.
kind regards
Marek–
v12 E-type running MS3/3X sequential lpg and petrol
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from mgordon sent Sun 10 Jan 2016:
I guess I’m spoiled by modern IP lighting. I thought the
two positions should be labeled ‘‘Dim’’ and ‘‘Dimmer’’.–
The original message included these comments:
Unless you’ve upgraded to LED’s, does anyone even use the
dim position on the switch? The original lights are way too
dim even on the ‘‘bright’’ setting. I can’t imagine that the
concours judges could tell the difference between the two
settings during daylight, so why would anyone worry whether
the dim setting cuts the output?
–
John Walker, 1969 E-Type Coupe
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from 64etype sent Sun 10 Jan 2016:
Thanks Eric, the link worked and although there is quite a
bit of useful info there on LED’s, it didn’t help me
understand the workings of the bright dim switch. On the S1
schematic I have the switch has 8 connection points on it.
The resistor is shown connected between 7 and 8 which I’m
told is located inside the switch.
The R wire is connected to switch pin 4
Some RW bulb wires connect to switch pins 7 and some to 8.
How this works is beyond me. Either the schematic is wrong
or I’m not following something.
Thanks–
The original message included these comments:
Try his link…if it doesn’t work, go the UK site and sea
–
Anthony, Toronto Ontario, 69 OTS
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from EtypeLvr sent Sat 9 Jan 2016:
Tony,
On the Saloons the bright/dim resistor is a black lozenge,
about 1/2x3/4x1/8’’ external to the switch body. It is held in
place by two brass fingers which also form the contacts. Later
on this was changed to a resistor soldered across the two pins,
again external. Presumably the same switch was used on all Jags
with the same switch.
There is also a resistor on the lighting switch serves to
dim the OD / Automatic selector lamps when the headlamps are
on. This is a plain resistor, 2 Watt rating, judging by the
size.
Andrew–
The original message included these comments:
We are trying to determine what dims the instrument lights
on his S1 car? On the schematic we’re looking at, there
appears to be a dropping resistor behind the Bright/Dim
switch? Is that correct? Where exactly is it mounted and
–
1968 3.8S
Zurich, Switzerland
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from JagWaugh sent Mon 11 Jan 2016:
Hi Andrew, that helps explain it.
I take it that when the switch is in the DIM position,
current for the instruments and dash lamps flows through
this resistor by way of the RW wires?
Do you know if the RW wire is connected to pin 7 or pin 8 of
the switch?
Thanks–
The original message included these comments:
about 1/2x3/4x1/8’’ external to the switch body. It is held in
place by two brass fingers which also form the contacts. Later
on this was changed to a resistor soldered across the two pins,
again external. Presumably the same switch was used on all Jags
with the same switch.
–
Anthony, Toronto Ontario, 69 OTS
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from EtypeLvr sent Mon 11 Jan 2016:
Tony, I just examined the switch. It has eight numbered
locations. 1 and 2 are just holes in the plastic casing
and do not have connectors…looks like ‘‘provisions for’’
connectors. Position 4 has a spade connector (for the red po
power wire). No connectors on #3 and #5. Spade connector on
on #6 is not used. #7 spade connected to double RU wire fe
female. #8 Spade connects to double RW female.
There are three stacked resisters between the square body
of the switch and spades #7 and 8. They are attached to
two vertical posts and are INDEDEPENDENT from terminals 7
and 8. Without taking the switch apart, it appears that
there is internal wiring that routes power via the reisiter stack when the switch is in the dim position. Long story short, the depiction in the wiring diagram is wrong. The resister
stack when the switch is in the dim position. Long story
short, the depiction in the wiring diagram is wrong. The
resister pack does NOT attach directly to connectors 7 and 8.
8.
That said, my experience along with others is that the dim
position is useless with LEDs in the center panel. As I
said, I made a ‘‘Y’’ jumper the connects the double RW female
and the double RU female to the side lamp circuit on the
main lighting rotary switch. An inexpensive LED dimmer
picks power off the RW wire and feeds the tach and speedo
LED strip lights. The dimmer has an independent ground.
One way to achieve balance. Obviously, only the tach and
speedo are adjustable. My experience with a variety of LED
bulbs in the tach and speedo was unsatisfactory with uneven
light distribution…hence the move to strip lighting in
the back of the cases.–
Eric
DFW Texas, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from 64etype sent Mon 11 Jan 2016:
Hi Eric, you nailed it! Now I understand how it’s wired.
And thanks for the other tips on how you wired up your LED
strips and dimmer circuits.
I think you’ve provided me with enough info to allow me to
help my friend with his S1 get started on his LED lamp
substitution. If I had a S1 car that I could look at, I
wouldn’t have needed to be such a bother!
Thank you for hanging in with me and taking the time to
respond. It was a big help!–
The original message included these comments:
power wire). No connectors on #3 and #5. Spade connector on
on #6 is not used. #7 spade connected to double RU wire fe
female. #8 Spade connects to double RW female.
There are three stacked resisters between the square body
of the switch and spades #7 and 8. They are attached to
two vertical posts and are INDEDEPENDENT from terminals 7
and 8. Without taking the switch apart, it appears that
there is internal wiring that routes power via the reisiter stack when the switch is in the dim position. Long story short, the depiction in the wiring diagram is wrong. The resister
stack when the switch is in the dim position. Long story
short, the depiction in the wiring diagram is wrong. The
resister pack does NOT attach directly to connectors 7 and 8.
–
Anthony, Toronto Ontario, 69 OTS
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from EtypeLvr sent Mon 11 Jan 2016:
Anthony,
Seems to me an alternative would be to replace the panel
light switch with a fan switch and install any resistor he
wants on the ‘‘Dim’’ wire. I think the switch should fit and
is available from our vendors.
One worry is that when lowering voltage it eventually gets
to a point where the LEDs don’t light up at all.
I used available LED bulbs and they light the tachometer and speedometer very nicely. I got them from V12s.com, which is apparently out of business. Searching the internet can get you suitable bulbs
and speedometer very nicely. I got them from V12s.com,
which is apparently out of business. Searching the
internet can get you suitable bulbs now, and they can be pret
pretty cheap.
For me, a slight dimming is just fine. YMMV.
One interesting observation is that when I bought LED bulbs
for the front blinkers I found they would not light up at
all (using the NAPA electronic flasher) though they worked
fine when connected directly to the battery. Testing
voltage there I got 7.5v but I figured that was because of avera
averaging over the blinks on the electronic VOM.
I hope that once fettled out this LED conversion is forever!
Jerry–
Jerry Mouton '64 FHC 889791 ‘MIK Jaguar’
Palo Alto, California, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
