Hi,
Wondering if anyone knows if it’s possible to replace the key lock cylinder in the ignition lock ?
One of the pins or tumblers has dropped and the key won’t go in. I’ve removed it from the steering column but can’t figure out how to remove the lock cylinder from the housing if it’s even possible. Was hoping to take it to a locksmith for replacement or repair. My housing has “WASO” and “WGB621” stamped on it.
Cheers,
Steve.
Dear Steve,
It is quite easy to do and I have replaced mine. The inner part of the cylinder is made from some cheap pot metal and mine had split. It is held into the main housing by a brass collar which acts as a circlip so it comes apart from the back. From memory, there is a grub screw or rivet at the front.
What you have to make sure of is that the parts do not fly out and get lost. Behind every brass barrel is a small spring and these will be very hard to find if you drop them. Collar it with a piece of transparent tubing as you pull it apart. The locksmith was stunned when I told him what I’d done, so be warned, the probability of failure is very, very high.
If no parts are missing, you can use a jeweller’s screwdriver to shimmy the lock barrels back into place in situ to make the key fit and work the lock. That’s how I ran my car for several years. You obviously can’t swap the barrel positions as they are different lengths, or you’ll need a new key. The simplest answer is to purchase a new WASO key & WASO inner cylinder together and swap the entire guts of the new lock into the old outer cylinder housing.
kind regards
Marek
Marek,
Thanks for the quick reply !
Marek,
Thanks for your quick reply !
I think I saw your post on this topic yesterday but I think
you have an earlier version of the lock. Mine is from a 1973
E-type, there is no brass circlip on the back, only the fork that
engages the ignition switch. There are 2 tiny holes just back of
the silver ring around the lock cylinder, I tried putting paper
clips in there but I still can’t get the cylinder out.
I've attached a photo of my lock, the back side is a larger
cylinder that holds the ignition switch and has a fork to rotate
it but I can’t see any circlips or set screws.
Thanks,
Steve
You have the same WASO lock as I do. You just haven’t dismantled yors yet. My car is 1974, so isn’t earlier than yours, not that you can deduce that from the lock. Both WASO and Britax locks appear in the 1974 parts manual.
kind regards
Marek
Marek,
OK, my mistake, but I still don't know how to dismantle to
get the lock cylinder out.
I can’t get the key in, in case that’s needed in the process.
There are 2 tiny holes just behind the silver ring
surrounding the front of the key cylinder at the 11 o’clock and 5
o’clock positions.
You can see one in the attached photo.
I tried pushing paper clip wires in there in case that would
release the cylinder but it didn’t.
Another fellow mentioned I may need a whole new housing/lock
if I can’t get the key in.
Cheers,
Steve
Steve,
While I didn’t get the barrel out of the lock housing, I did get the back end off as you show in the pic above. Be careful when you put this piece back together - mine now sticks when I do a full turn of the key to start- Be sure to test this thoroughly before you re-assemble.
Hi all,
I took the lock housing to a locksmith today, and within a minute he pulled out the broken pin and spring, put in a few drops of oil and handed it back to me no charge !
So it works now with my key minus one of the pins so I guess it went from a 6 pin to a 5 pin lock.
Maybe they are called tumblers, I should have asked him, but it's the little plungers that the key lifts up.
He mentioned the 2 small holes just back of the silver ring hold roll pins that hold the cylinder in place.
He said I would have to drill small holes just next to them in order to grab the top of the pins to pull them out and release the cylinder.
He said it would be somewhat difficult and best to leave it as is or replace the whole lock.
But I got lucky and have a working lock now - until another pin comes loose !!
Thanks to everyone who replied to my query.
Cheers, Steve.
Gentlemen,
Good afternoon. I have the same E-Type assembly as in the pictures (with the I, II, III). How do I get this things off? I can’t find a way to remove it.
Thank you!
Respectfully,
Jon
Jon.
The ignition lock as in my photo comes out via a shear bolt directly behind it.
So when you unscrew it, it unscrews towards the engine.
The sheer bolt is behind the part of the ignition lock that goes into the steering column and is surrounded by a raised ring to make it more difficult to remove. To unscrew the bolt, you need to use a center punch and a hammer to tap it anti clockwise because it has a round head (for security) and no hex shape to grab with a socket.
You can either lie on your back in the footwell or do what I did and remove the cardboard parcel shelf under the steering column, then drop the steering column by removing the 2 clamps that hold it in position via 4 bolts. The only way to remove the lock cylinder from the steering column lock housing is to drill small holes next to the 2 holes already there just behind the silver ring as I mentioned in a previous post and remove the tiny roll pins that hold the cylinder in place. I never did this and was told it was tricky.
But MarekH said there is some other rivet or screw that keeps the cylinder in place but like I said I never did it so I don’t know for sure.
Good Luck,
Steve
I have the same problem the inner cylinder is broken. I followed
your advice and have it apart. Where did you find a Waso inner
cylinder replacement?
Bob, I never had to replace my inner cylinder, just had a locksmith pull out the stuck pin.
But I think MarekH actually replaced the inner cylinder so you’d have to ask him.
Cheers,
Steve
As mentioned earlier in the thread, I purchased replacement parts. These were from a chap on the internet who specialised in Wilmot Breedon locks, i.e. all of the British classic cars. I seem to remember he went by the moniker of “wilmotlockman” (or something like that) on ebay.
Replacing the inner barrel is very straightforward, but be aware that the tiny brass barrels (which define the key depth at any point) are backed by springs and these will try to fly out as you extract the inner barrel. Make sure you sleeve the inner barrel as it comes out
so you do not lose these parts. They have to go back in exactly the same way, otherwise a different key will obviously be needed.
On an old lock, the brass barrels are quite substantially worn and they may stick if they travel in any way other than directly up and down. In that respect, an old lock still be used if the key is inserted delicately after the barrels have been massaged using a jeweller’s screwdriver to make sure they move up and down in their respective slots. This will get your car going, but be advised that the lock now has a limited life remaining, as the barrels and the inner cylinder are worn down enough to allow the barrels to move more than just up and down.
kind regards
Marek
Thanks… I just sent him an email.
Bob
Bad news… He didn’t answer my email so I did some research
one google and found his obit.