[E-Type] Static Timing 101

E-Type
1

I’m about to fire up my '61 OTS after a 12 year rebuild and 28
years of sleep and I’d appreciate a quick Static Timing 101. As
you can appreciate, I’ve replaced everything so nothing is at base
line.
Thanks,
Kevin
875443–
Lambsfoot
Long Beach, United States
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2

In reply to a message from Lambsfoot sent Sun 19 Oct 2008:

Kevin,

Pretty simple. On p. P.10 of the service manual.

  1. turn the crank until the pointer at the bottom of the harmonic
    balancer rests at 10 degrees BTDC (that’s the only 10 mark there
    is). First you can check the alignment of that pointer to TDC with
    the flywheel TDC mark through the window in the bellhousing by the
    left side bulkhead.

  2. hook a 12v light between the black and white wire to the coil
    and ground. Keep all wires hooked up as when running.

  3. Loosen the distributor clamp

  4. turn on the ignition.

  5. Turn the distributor until the rotor is pointing to the no. 6
    plug wire on the cap (it should be near that already if all is OK)
    and you are exactly at the point where the light goes off and on
    with the very slightest movement of the rotor. Be very careful and
    accurate to find the exact spot. If you breathe on the rotor, the
    light should go on/off. You should not really have to move it at
    all if you are at the right spot. If you can’t get any light
    action then you are a little too advanced, back off until you just
    get the light to change state with slightest motion of the rotor.

  6. Then making sure not to move the distributor at all, tighten the
    distributor clamp until the distributor cannot be moved at all.

That’s it.

You can do it without a light because the points spark exactly at
the point of opening, and you can listen carefully to hear that the
spark happens exactly where the distributor is set, rather than
having the light go on/off.

If you have Pertronix or another electronic ignition without
points, I don’t recall what to do, other than to get it close and
start the car with the distributor loose and use a timing light to
find the 10 BTDC point. The instructions you got should tell you
how to do static timing if it is possible.

Jerry

Jerry–
Jerry Mouton '64 FHC 889791 ‘MIK Jaguar’
Palo Alto, California, United States
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3

In reply to a message from mouton sent Sun 19 Oct 2008:

Jerry:
Will the mark on the flywheel and the pointer on the balancer
ensure that I am not 180 degrees out with the distributor?
Thanks,
Kevin–
The original message included these comments:

  1. turn the crank until the pointer at the bottom of the harmonic
    balancer rests at 10 degrees BTDC (that’s the only 10 mark there
    is). First you can check the alignment of that pointer to TDC with
    the flywheel TDC mark through the window in the bellhousing by the
    left side bulkhead.

–
Lambsfoot
Long Beach, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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4

Kevin,
You need to have #1 Cylinder (the rear one) on the compression stroke.
Larry— On Mon, 10/20/08, Lambsfoot deightonnest@aol.com wrote:

From: Lambsfoot deightonnest@aol.com
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Static Timing 101
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Date: Monday, October 20, 2008, 8:25 AM
In reply to a message from mouton sent Sun 19 Oct 2008:

Jerry:
Will the mark on the flywheel and the pointer on the
balancer
ensure that I am not 180 degrees out with the distributor?
Thanks,
Kevin

The original message included these comments:

  1. turn the crank until the pointer at the bottom of
    the harmonic
    balancer rests at 10 degrees BTDC (that’s the only
    10 mark there
    is). First you can check the alignment of that
    pointer to TDC with
    the flywheel TDC mark through the window in the
    bellhousing by the
    left side bulkhead.

–
Lambsfoot
Long Beach, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM
[forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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5

In reply to a message from Lambsfoot sent Mon 20 Oct 2008:

Kevin,

No, you have to make sure that the rotor points to no.6 (front)
before setting things. Actually, I don’t guess in matters whether
you set the static timing for no.6 or no. 1, so you don’t really
have to worry about it…

Also, there is a small chance that the flywheel was last installed
180 degrees out of phase, in which case there won’t be a mark there
at TDC 6, instead there won’t be any cylinders at TDC when the mark
shows up. But if it’s correct, it’s very useful. If it’s not you
have to verify TDC with a dial indicator down into the spark plug
hole. If you don’t know the car’s history this is a good thing to
do once (set the sump-bottom pointer exactly).

4.2s don’t have this nice feature, I always wondered why. If you
have a timing light with a degree offset knob you can time the car
from the top of the engine which is a BIG advantage!

Be sure to lube the distributor before doing this, and then every
2500 miles. Check with your hand that the rotor moves a
significant amount against the advance springs without any drag,
and returns under its own spring pressure completely back to the
end of its travel, i.e. it won’t move more when you push it (the
rotor may move on the shaft, but the shaft should not move) If
not, put a drop of liquid wrench under the rotor and work it back
and forth a lot, then more, again and again until it moves
completely freely. If it does not free up, you need to disassemble
the distributor and clean up this rotation corrosion. Otherwise
you are not getting the advance the car needs. And this is a
pretty commmon problem…

Jerry–
The original message included these comments:

Will the mark on the flywheel and the pointer on the balancer
ensure that I am not 180 degrees out with the distributor?

–
Jerry Mouton '64 FHC 889791 ‘MIK Jaguar’
Palo Alto, California, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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6

In reply to a message from Lambsfoot sent Sun 19 Oct 2008:

Kevin,

Here’s a very nice video on YouTube that describes how to set the
static timing on an MG. I used it as a refresher when I set up my
E-Type:

BTW, John Twist (the featured instructor) has a number of
interesting tutorials on YouTube; go to www.youtube.com and
search for ‘‘University Motors’’. Very useful stuff, and quite
entertaining!

~~Bob–
Bob Skelly 1968 OTS, New Freedom, PA
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7

Here’s a question for you guys, the mechanic who rebuilt my engine
had a nifty little set up that allowed him to get the #6 cylinder at
TDC effortlessly. he had machined two inserts that would screw into
the spark plug hole, they were drilled to allow a brass rod with a 90
degree bend to slip through and down to rest on the piston. When the
rods matched up in the contiguous cylinders (and this was the
question) #6 was at TDC firing position. IIRC it was cylinders 3&4
but it could have been 4&5, has anyone tried this technique for
finding TDC?
Cheers,
LynnOn Oct 20, 2008, at 9:34 AM, mouton wrote:

In reply to a message from Lambsfoot sent Mon 20 Oct 2008:

Kevin,

No, you have to make sure that the rotor points to no.6 (front)
before setting things. Actually, I don’t guess in matters whether
you set the static timing for no.6 or no. 1, so you don’t really
have to worry about it…

Also, there is a small chance that the flywheel was last installed
180 degrees out of phase, in which case there won’t be a mark there
at TDC 6, instead there won’t be any cylinders at TDC when the mark
shows up. But if it’s correct, it’s very useful. If it’s not you
have to verify TDC with a dial indicator down into the spark plug
hole. If you don’t know the car’s history this is a good thing to
do once (set the sump-bottom pointer exactly).

4.2s don’t have this nice feature, I always wondered why. If you
have a timing light with a degree offset knob you can time the car
from the top of the engine which is a BIG advantage!

Be sure to lube the distributor before doing this, and then every
2500 miles. Check with your hand that the rotor moves a
significant amount against the advance springs without any drag,
and returns under its own spring pressure completely back to the
end of its travel, i.e. it won’t move more when you push it (the
rotor may move on the shaft, but the shaft should not move) If
not, put a drop of liquid wrench under the rotor and work it back
and forth a lot, then more, again and again until it moves
completely freely. If it does not free up, you need to disassemble
the distributor and clean up this rotation corrosion. Otherwise
you are not getting the advance the car needs. And this is a
pretty commmon problem…

Jerry

The original message included these comments:

Will the mark on the flywheel and the pointer on the balancer
ensure that I am not 180 degrees out with the distributor?

–
Jerry Mouton '64 FHC 889791 ‘MIK Jaguar’
Palo Alto, California, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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Lynn G
73fhc 4zs
68ots 3su
Boise, ID USA

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8

Maybe I’m not understanding exactly what’s doing but it sounds Mickey
Mouse to me. I’ll stick with the good old dial indicator method.
Bob
889076
Plymouth, Mi.On Oct 20, 2008, at 12:07 PM, Lynn Gardner wrote:

Here’s a question for you guys, the mechanic who rebuilt my engine
had a nifty little set up that allowed him to get the #6 cylinder at
TDC effortlessly. he had machined two inserts that would screw into
the spark plug hole, they were drilled to allow a brass rod with a
90 degree bend to slip through and down to rest on the piston. When
the rods matched up in the contiguous cylinders (and this was the
question) #6 was at TDC firing position. IIRC it was cylinders 3&4
but it could have been 4&5, has anyone tried this technique for
finding TDC?
Cheers,
Lynn
On Oct 20, 2008, at 9:34 AM, mouton wrote:

In reply to a message from Lambsfoot sent Mon 20 Oct 2008:

Kevin,

No, you have to make sure that the rotor points to no.6 (front)
before setting things. Actually, I don’t guess in matters whether
you set the static timing for no.6 or no. 1, so you don’t really
have to worry about it…

Also, there is a small chance that the flywheel was last installed
180 degrees out of phase, in which case there won’t be a mark there
at TDC 6, instead there won’t be any cylinders at TDC when the mark
shows up. But if it’s correct, it’s very useful. If it’s not you
have to verify TDC with a dial indicator down into the spark plug
hole. If you don’t know the car’s history this is a good thing to
do once (set the sump-bottom pointer exactly).

4.2s don’t have this nice feature, I always wondered why. If you
have a timing light with a degree offset knob you can time the car
from the top of the engine which is a BIG advantage!

Be sure to lube the distributor before doing this, and then every
2500 miles. Check with your hand that the rotor moves a
significant amount against the advance springs without any drag,
and returns under its own spring pressure completely back to the
end of its travel, i.e. it won’t move more when you push it (the
rotor may move on the shaft, but the shaft should not move) If
not, put a drop of liquid wrench under the rotor and work it back
and forth a lot, then more, again and again until it moves
completely freely. If it does not free up, you need to disassemble
the distributor and clean up this rotation corrosion. Otherwise
you are not getting the advance the car needs. And this is a
pretty commmon problem…

Jerry

The original message included these comments:

Will the mark on the flywheel and the pointer on the balancer
ensure that I am not 180 degrees out with the distributor?

–
Jerry Mouton '64 FHC 889791 ‘MIK Jaguar’
Palo Alto, California, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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Lynn G
73fhc 4zs
68ots 3su
Boise, ID USA

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9

In reply to a message from Lynn Gardner sent Mon 20 Oct 2008:

Actually it is #2 & 3 or 4 & 5 cylinders as the pistons are going
in oposite directions when #1 or 6 are at TDC. # 3 & 4 go up and
down together. As there is some arc at the TDC mark, a dial
indicator on #1 or 6 will only get it within a few degrees of TDC.
When the other cylinders mentioned are at the same height, then you
are exactly at TDC. It is amazing how sensitive this is and allows
a really good setting. In fact, when a car is in for a tune up, I
check to make sure the timing mark is centered using a screwdriver
and my finger. As the timing marks are adjustable, it should not be
suprising that a lot are off. Most anything adjustable gets
adjusted whether right or wrong.–
The original message included these comments:

Here’s a question for you guys, the mechanic who rebuilt my engine
had a nifty little set up that allowed him to get the #6 cylinder at
TDC effortlessly. he had machined two inserts that would screw into
the spark plug hole, they were drilled to allow a brass rod with a 90
degree bend to slip through and down to rest on the piston. When the
rods matched up in the contiguous cylinders (and this was the
question) #6 was at TDC firing position. IIRC it was cylinders 3&4
but it could have been 4&5, has anyone tried this technique for
finding TDC?

–
Dick Maury , Rebuild Dept., Coventry West, Inc., JCNA VP
Lithonia, GA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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10

Skip to the last couple of mins to see the real tragedy…

Les Halls
Atlanta Ga
'68 S1.5 2+2______________________________________________________
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11

In reply to a message from Lynn Gardner sent Mon 20 Oct 2008:

Lynn,
Had to be either 2 & 3, or 4 & 5, as those would each be 120
degrees off from 1 & 6, so when 1 & 6 are at TDC, 2,3,4 & 5 should
all be at exactly the same height.–
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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12

Dick ,
I agree that there is a “dwell” period at TDC and I was taught to go
one direction until the indicator stopped and mark the damper at that
point and then go the other direction until the indicator stopped and
mark that point on the damper. TDC is exactly between these two
points. Sure hate to think that I’ve been doing this wrong for almost
50 years!
Bob
889076
Plymouth, Mi.On Oct 20, 2008, at 12:51 PM, Dick Maury wrote:

In reply to a message from Lynn Gardner sent Mon 20 Oct 2008:

Actually it is #2 & 3 or 4 & 5 cylinders as the pistons are going
in oposite directions when #1 or 6 are at TDC. # 3 & 4 go up and
down together. As there is some arc at the TDC mark, a dial
indicator on #1 or 6 will only get it within a few degrees of TDC.
When the other cylinders mentioned are at the same height, then you
are exactly at TDC. It is amazing how sensitive this is and allows
a really good setting. In fact, when a car is in for a tune up, I
check to make sure the timing mark is centered using a screwdriver
and my finger. As the timing marks are adjustable, it should not be
suprising that a lot are off. Most anything adjustable gets
adjusted whether right or wrong.

The original message included these comments:

Here’s a question for you guys, the mechanic who rebuilt my engine
had a nifty little set up that allowed him to get the #6 cylinder at
TDC effortlessly. he had machined two inserts that would screw into
the spark plug hole, they were drilled to allow a brass rod with a 90
degree bend to slip through and down to rest on the piston. When the
rods matched up in the contiguous cylinders (and this was the
question) #6 was at TDC firing position. IIRC it was cylinders 3&4
but it could have been 4&5, has anyone tried this technique for
finding TDC?

–
Dick Maury , Rebuild Dept., Coventry West, Inc., JCNA VP
Lithonia, GA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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13

Les , this is a clip from the English movie Car Troubles. Funny stuff!
Bob
889076
Plymouth, Mi.On Oct 20, 2008, at 12:58 PM, Les Halls wrote:

Skip to the last couple of mins to see the real tragedy…

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=37uPz1v5XU0

Les Halls
Atlanta Ga
'68 S1.5 2+2

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14

Thanks Dick,Ray and Bob,
Sounds like it might be a pretty handy way of doing it then, take a
couple of old spark plugs, knock out the center and make a couple of
brass rods the right length and presto TDC…
Cheers,
LynnOn Oct 20, 2008, at 10:51 AM, Dick Maury wrote:

In reply to a message from Lynn Gardner sent Mon 20 Oct 2008:

Actually it is #2 & 3 or 4 & 5 cylinders as the pistons are going
in oposite directions when #1 or 6 are at TDC. # 3 & 4 go up and
down together. As there is some arc at the TDC mark, a dial
indicator on #1 or 6 will only get it within a few degrees of TDC.
When the other cylinders mentioned are at the same height, then you
are exactly at TDC. It is amazing how sensitive this is and allows
a really good setting. In fact, when a car is in for a tune up, I
check to make sure the timing mark is centered using a screwdriver
and my finger. As the timing marks are adjustable, it should not be
suprising that a lot are off. Most anything adjustable gets
adjusted whether right or wrong.

The original message included these comments:

Here’s a question for you guys, the mechanic who rebuilt my engine
had a nifty little set up that allowed him to get the #6 cylinder at
TDC effortlessly. he had machined two inserts that would screw into
the spark plug hole, they were drilled to allow a brass rod with a 90
degree bend to slip through and down to rest on the piston. When the
rods matched up in the contiguous cylinders (and this was the
question) #6 was at TDC firing position. IIRC it was cylinders 3&4
but it could have been 4&5, has anyone tried this technique for
finding TDC?

–
Dick Maury , Rebuild Dept., Coventry West, Inc., JCNA VP
Lithonia, GA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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Lynn G
73fhc 4zs
68ots 3su
Boise, ID USA

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15

In reply to a message from Stevenson Robert sent Mon 20 Oct 2008:

Bob,

That is a common way of doing it as well, and just as good if

done carefully. Some people make up a spark plug with a rod or
bolt in the center to act as a stop for the piston to ensure both
positions are really the same piston height. I think the two-
cylinder method is more accurate, however, because you’re measuring
pistons whose crank throws are close to horizontal, so a given
crank rotation will result in a MUCH larger displacement on the
dial indicator, allowing you to find TDC with much greater
accuracy. Now, whether that greater accuracy actually buys you
anything…–
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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16

In reply to a message from Lynn Gardner sent Mon 20 Oct 2008:

Lynn,

One catch to doing that is the fact that the spark plug holes

are offset, so the rod ends up resting on the sloped part of the
piston dome, making it difficult to get an accurate reading if
there is any side-to-side slop in the rods. So, it has to be a
reasonably well-made little device.–
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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17

In reply to a message from Les Halls sent Mon 20 Oct 2008:

Never mind the tragedy…I love seeing ANYTHING that shows off
Julie Walter’s gams…:=]

Oh…too bad about the Jag.

‘’)–
The original message included these comments:

Skip to the last couple of mins to see the real tragedy…
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=37uPz1v5XU0

–
Paul Wigton, steward to a '60 DKW 1000 SP, Tweety, '63 FHC!
Keenesburg, CO, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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18

Humm, thanks Ray, let’s see, who has a CNC machine…
Cheers,
LynnOn Oct 20, 2008, at 11:39 AM, Ray Livingston wrote:

In reply to a message from Lynn Gardner sent Mon 20 Oct 2008:

Lynn,

One catch to doing that is the fact that the spark plug holes

are offset, so the rod ends up resting on the sloped part of the
piston dome, making it difficult to get an accurate reading if
there is any side-to-side slop in the rods. So, it has to be a
reasonably well-made little device.

Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States

Lynn G
73fhc 4zs
68ots 3su
Boise, ID USA

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19

John Twist at University Motors has a different way to find
TDC: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aw7IdW4Qxcc
His videos are great!

-Steve Trovato
@Steven_Trovato1______________________________________________________
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20

I fail to see how doing it this way takes into consideration the
slight dwell period at TDC.
Bob
889076
Plymouth, Mi.On Oct 20, 2008, at 5:43 PM, Steven Trovato wrote:

John Twist at University Motors has a different way to find TDC: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aw7IdW4Qxcc
His videos are great!

-Steve Trovato
strovato@optonline.net

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Search the archives & forums - http://search.jag-lovers.org/
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Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php