Maybe I’m not understanding exactly what’s doing but it sounds Mickey
Mouse to me. I’ll stick with the good old dial indicator method.
Bob
889076
Plymouth, Mi.On Oct 20, 2008, at 12:07 PM, Lynn Gardner wrote:
Here’s a question for you guys, the mechanic who rebuilt my engine
had a nifty little set up that allowed him to get the #6 cylinder at
TDC effortlessly. he had machined two inserts that would screw into
the spark plug hole, they were drilled to allow a brass rod with a
90 degree bend to slip through and down to rest on the piston. When
the rods matched up in the contiguous cylinders (and this was the
question) #6 was at TDC firing position. IIRC it was cylinders 3&4
but it could have been 4&5, has anyone tried this technique for
finding TDC?
Cheers,
Lynn
On Oct 20, 2008, at 9:34 AM, mouton wrote:In reply to a message from Lambsfoot sent Mon 20 Oct 2008:
Kevin,
No, you have to make sure that the rotor points to no.6 (front)
before setting things. Actually, I don’t guess in matters whether
you set the static timing for no.6 or no. 1, so you don’t really
have to worry about it…Also, there is a small chance that the flywheel was last installed
180 degrees out of phase, in which case there won’t be a mark there
at TDC 6, instead there won’t be any cylinders at TDC when the mark
shows up. But if it’s correct, it’s very useful. If it’s not you
have to verify TDC with a dial indicator down into the spark plug
hole. If you don’t know the car’s history this is a good thing to
do once (set the sump-bottom pointer exactly).4.2s don’t have this nice feature, I always wondered why. If you
have a timing light with a degree offset knob you can time the car
from the top of the engine which is a BIG advantage!Be sure to lube the distributor before doing this, and then every
2500 miles. Check with your hand that the rotor moves a
significant amount against the advance springs without any drag,
and returns under its own spring pressure completely back to the
end of its travel, i.e. it won’t move more when you push it (the
rotor may move on the shaft, but the shaft should not move) If
not, put a drop of liquid wrench under the rotor and work it back
and forth a lot, then more, again and again until it moves
completely freely. If it does not free up, you need to disassemble
the distributor and clean up this rotation corrosion. Otherwise
you are not getting the advance the car needs. And this is a
pretty commmon problem…Jerry
The original message included these comments:
Will the mark on the flywheel and the pointer on the balancer
ensure that I am not 180 degrees out with the distributor?–
Jerry Mouton '64 FHC 889791 ‘MIK Jaguar’
Palo Alto, California, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.phpLynn G
73fhc 4zs
68ots 3su
Boise, ID USA
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