[E-Type] The impossible question... " what's it worth?"

In reply to a message from TomP66/62e sent Wed 24 May 2006:

Seems like there are always a slew of 2+2s on ebay, so
checking the results would be one way to put a realistic
value on your car. In addition to the condition, you have
going for you the fact that it’s a series 1, and a
row-your-own. That should put it just a notch down from a
short wheelbase car in similar condition. Maybe half the
difference between an OTS and FHC?–
Jack Terrick 66 FHC
Greensburg, PA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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In reply to a message from TomP66/62e sent Wed 24 May 2006:

If you keep them all, you’ll have to start building the pyramid
pretty soon, so it’ll be done in time. I started too late and had
to settle for a hole in a mountain for all my stuff.

King Tut.–
PhilW
Virginville, Pa., United States
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In reply to a message from TomP66/62e sent Wed 24 May 2006:

The best thing to do is to take it to an auction, and maybe
one of those bidders is half drunk and will take the car off
your hands, since most people at these auctions only know
old chevy,s and old fords.
Been there before.
Walter
69E ser.II 2+2–
The original message included these comments:

that I need to thin the heard - and possibly sell the 66 2+2. Its a
darn nice car, most reliable/practical of the bunch; rebuilt
condition, I wonder if the 2+2’s have increased in value too?
Photos of my 2+2 can be found on the XKE Data page - it is car
#1E75773. What’s the value? Should I just keep it forever?


Walter Schuster 78XJ6LFI Ser.II, 69Eser.II 2+2
Albuquerque/New Mexico, United States
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In reply to a message from TomP66/62e sent Wed 24 May 2006:

Tom,
Try Dan Mooney’s site:

http://www.classicjaguar.com/evalue.html

Be honest with condition (then subtract one level?)

Dave–
1969 BRG OTS
Skaneateles, NY, United States
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The magazine “Sports Car Market” publishes a price guide in most
issues, covering a subset of the market (English cars being the
segment you’ll want to find.) They use data from auctions, online
sales, etc… in other words actual market data. You can buy the
entire price guide online for 415 IIRC at
http://www.sportscarmarket.com

The last English car price guide was published in 12/05, so they’re
due for an update. According to that guide, the 2+2 market values are
roughly:

  low/high

S1: $15,000/$22,000
(deduct $3,000 for auto trans)

S2: $14,000/$20,000
(deduct $3,000 for auto trans, add $1,000 for a/c)

Of course “concours perfect” examples and fright pigs are outside the
edges of the bell curves above. They state that these are actual
values based on recent sales (not prices… SALES) of cars ranging
from “very good to near excellent” condition…“above a daily driver,
but below a regional concours” … “the prices assume cars with ‘no
stories attached.’”

While I’d like to imagine that my car is somehow worth zillions… or
near the high end of the range (they say s1 4.2 OTS l/h is $45k/$65k)
I know in my heart that my car is one with more than one “story”
attached, and is FAR from even small-town concours condition. It is a
pretty car, but it isn’t a gold mine.

That said, it is a family heirloom. It isn’t for sale. =)–
–chuck goolsbee
65ots, 1E10715
arlington, wa, usa
http://chuck.goolsbee.org

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You can buy the entire price guide online for 415 IIRC at
http://www.sportscarmarket.com

bad typing, that should be: $15–
–chuck goolsbee
65ots, 1E10715
arlington, wa, usa
http://chuck.goolsbee.org

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In reply to a message from WaltSchuster sent Thu 25 May 2006:

You are close to ‘‘HOT AUGUST NIGHTS’’, we met someone up here who
bought an E for his wife at that auction.
You may get the same situation. Wife has to have-it-itis.
Of course doesn’t seem to work around here unless Wife has the
money for it.
:slight_smile: hahaha–
The original message included these comments:

The best thing to do is to take it to an auction, and maybe
one of those bidders is half drunk and will take the car off
your hands, since most people at these auctions only know
old chevy,s and old fords.
Been there before.
Walter
69E ser.II 2+2


68 E OTS, 1E17103, 99 Suburban, 95 Westfalen Gelding
Woodinville, WA, United States
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You can always check http://www.nadaguides.com

That’s what Hagerty used to calculate my insurance. I’m not thinking
of selling for a while, so whatever the insurance company says is good
for me.

Chris
'67 OTSOn 5/26/06, Constance cotswoldjr@aol.com wrote:

In reply to a message from WaltSchuster sent Thu 25 May 2006:

You are close to ‘‘HOT AUGUST NIGHTS’’, we met someone up here who
bought an E for his wife at that auction.
You may get the same situation. Wife has to have-it-itis.
Of course doesn’t seem to work around here unless Wife has the
money for it.
:slight_smile: hahaha

The original message included these comments:

The best thing to do is to take it to an auction, and maybe
one of those bidders is half drunk and will take the car off
your hands, since most people at these auctions only know
old chevy,s and old fords.
Been there before.
Walter
69E ser.II 2+2


68 E OTS, 1E17103, 99 Suburban, 95 Westfalen Gelding
Woodinville, WA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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