A year ago I had my compressor replaced with a rebuilt unit,
new expansion valve, drier and switch over to R143. Unit
worked great but I did not drive it very much, especially
during the winter. In early Spring while cleaning it up for
a show I noticed a line of green droplets on the underside
of the bonnet and upper radiator hoses corresponding to the
compressor front. Figured I had a leak but was told that in
most cases it’s due to a dry seal from lack of use and will
usually re-seal itself when you begin driving more. Still
had cold air.
Well, I didn’t take that advice and after sitting the better
part of the last 2 months I cranked it yesterday, turned on
the A/C, cold air with compressor cycling correctly. After
running 15 minutes or so the air gradually warmed to the
point it’s barely cool. I also noticed that the left side
A/C hose was frosting over. From my experience with home
A/C that is a sure sign of a low charge.
My questions: With a front seal leak like this appears to
be will it self correct if topped up and used regularly?
And two, is topping it off best left to a pro or can it be
done by an amateur who is pretty good with tools but knows
little about A/C?–
mollyoliver
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
I----- Original Message -----
A year ago I had my compressor replaced with a rebuilt unit,
new expansion valve, drier and switch over to R143. Unit
worked great but I did not drive it very much, especially
during the winter. In early Spring while cleaning it up for
a show I noticed a line of green droplets on the underside
of the bonnet and upper radiator hoses corresponding to the
compressor front. Figure…
I have lots of experience with that…
The short explanation… is that you need to run your A/C about once a month for at least a few minutes. The seals do dry, shrink and leak. The oil in the 134 lubricates them and keeps them from leaking.
Save yourself a bundle of hard cash, buy a couple cans of 134 and a gauge (which can come on a can) and refill, being careful to to overfill. Easy to follow instructions. Then run it a couple times per month, and “I betcha” in a year it will still be full. (I paid a bundle to learn that)
LLo… ummm, Joe (LLoyd would never be that dumb)----- Original Message -----
A year ago I had my compressor replaced with a rebuilt unit,
new expansion valve, drier and switch over to R143. Unit
worked great but I did not drive it very much, especially
during the winter. In ea…
In reply to a message from mollyoliver sent Fri 29 Apr 2016:
Don’t know what a ‘‘left side’’ hose is, but I’m assuming it’s
the low pressure hose and a frosty low pressure hose is
usually a sign that the evaporator fan is not blowing full
speed and/or the low pressure switch on the compressor is
not functioning.–
The original message included these comments:
Well, I didn’t take that advice and after sitting the better
part of the last 2 months I cranked it yesterday, turned on
the A/C, cold air with compressor cycling correctly. After
running 15 minutes or so the air gradually warmed to the
point it’s barely cool. I also noticed that the left side
A/C hose was frosting over. From my experience with home
A/C that is a sure sign of a low charge.
–
Pete Peterson 70E(193K) XJ40s(88-270K,89-97K, 94-122K)
Severna Park, Maryland, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Jaguarpete sent Fri 29 Apr 2016:
A third common cause of suction line frost, or ‘‘frost back,’’
is low refrigerant charge–which acts similarly to low fan
speed. Liquid pressure is too low, which corresponds to
temperature below freezing when refrigerant enters the
evaporator. This freezes water that would otherwise condense
from the air and drain. This clogs the fins, starting at the
input side of the evaporator. Since there is no air flow
there to remove heat, the refrigerant doesn’t boil until
it’s further into the evap. Eventually the entire evap
freezes, and boiling doesn’t occur until it enters the
suction line. If it’s so bad that some liquid refrigerant
remains all the way back to the compressor, it can ‘‘slug’’
and ruin the compressor.
The symptom is some cooling at first, then none unless you
turn it off and wait for the coils to defrost. But it’s
dangerous to do this–low charge means insufficient
circulating oil and insufficient refrigerant return (which
can overheat the compressor). Including slugging, low charge
gives you three ways to trash the compressor.–
The original message included these comments:
the low pressure hose and a frosty low pressure hose is
usually a sign that the evaporator fan is not blowing full
speed and/or the low pressure switch on the compressor is
not functioning.
–
Bob Wilkinson, 73 XJ6
Saint Louis, MO, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Can’t say yours will reseal, don’t use the AC in my (newer) cars for
“many” months at a time and they don’t leak. However back in the 70s
I had a GM car in which I disconnected the compressor because I was
told, true or not, that GM runs the compressor when the defroster is
on whether needed or not. I thought that’s stupid its 20 degrees
outside. In the spring I had no AC and found R12 lubricant sprayed
all over the engine compartment. At that time we could recharge our
own stuff so I did. It healed itself, never leaked another drop.
From that time on I tried to run the compressor for a few minutes at
least once a month, it never gave me any more trouble.
pauls
A year ago I had my compressor replaced with a rebuilt unit,
new expansion valve, drier and switch over to R143. Unit
worked great but I did not drive it very much, especially
during the winter. In early Spring while cleaning it up for
a show I noticed a line of green droplets on the underside
of the bonnet and upper radiator hoses corresponding to the
compressor front. Figured I had a leak but was told that in
most cases it’s due to a dry seal from lack of use and will
usually re-seal itself when you begin driving more. Still
had cold air.
Well, I didn’t take that advice and after sitting the better
part of the last 2 months I cranked it yesterday, turned on
the A/C, cold air with compressor cycling correctly. After
running 15 minutes or so the air gradually warmed to the
point it’s barely cool. I also noticed that the left side
A/C hose was frosting over. From my experience with home
A/C that is a sure sign of a low charge.
My questions: With a front seal leak like this appears to
be will it self correct if topped up and used regularly?
And two, is topping it off best left to a pro or can it be
done by an amateur who is pretty good with tools but knows
little about A/C?
<<<<<<<<<<From: “mollyoliver” rcpdev@gmail.com
Subject: [E-Type] Topping off A6 A/C compressor, SIII
Yes, indeed, Walter.
Do it in your garage, or on a day when it is a bit “less cold”. It needs to operate just long enough to pump the frion/134 through the system past the seals.
I make it a practice to run the house AC ever so often too.
LLoyd----- Original Message -----
…
You mention of running the AC on each car a few
minutes every so often.
This I find very hard to do, especially during
winter months when the temperature is around 32F
outside.
Lloyd,
You’ve breached a subject I’ve never seen discussed re; AC for the
house. Since those are sealed units, e.g. the compressor is internal
I don’t know why it would need to be run but willing to learn.
pauls
Yes, indeed, Walter.
Do it in your garage, or on a day when it is a bit “less cold”. It
needs to operate just long enough to pump the frion/134 through the
system past the seals.
I make it a practice to run the house AC ever so often too.
<<<<<<<<<<<From: “LLoyd (a rithmetician)” soothsayer1@comcast.net
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Topping off A6 A/C compressor, SIII
In reply to a message from Paul Spurlock sent Sun 1 May 2016:
Right, Paul. The are hermetically enclosed so no shaft
seals, etc. The electric ones for cars are that way, too.–
The original message included these comments:
house. Since those are sealed units, e.g. the compressor is internal
I don’t know why it would need to be run but willing to learn.
–
Bob Wilkinson, 73 XJ6
Saint Louis, MO, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Well, technically, I suppose, cause I don’t know for squat, there are a lot of connections in the system. And the compressor has to be connected to a motor via a shaft, which has a seal, or at least an electric wire, which is sealed.
At any rate, whether good, bad, or ugly, I run the thing every month or so for about five minutes.
I’ll be the first to admit, the things I don’t know could fill a book…
LLoyd----- Original Message -----
Lloyd,
You’ve breached a subject I’ve never seen discussed re; AC for the
house. Since those are sealed units, e.g. the compressor is internal
I don’t know why it would need to be run but willing to learn.
pauls
In reply to a message from LLoyd (a rithmetician) sent Fri 29 Apr 2016:
OK, over the weekend I bought one of those EZ Fill trigger
devices with a low pressure gauge attached and several
bottles of R134. I did not get any with sealants, etc. as I
read they can gum up the works.
There was still enough charge in the system to cycle the
compressor so I started adding freon. After three 8 oz
bottles the gauge still only read about 15# when full should
have been 25-30#. Ran errands for several hours, then came
back to look at the problem some more. Cranked it up and
this time the low side read about 35#, the compressor cycled
off as it should when I turned the thermostat knob, but when
I attempted to get it to kick back in by again using the
thermostat knob the clutch began slipping.
I read up some more about compressor problems and the most
likey fault after ruling out others was overcharge. So I
slowly bled off pressure from the low side, and with the EZ
trigger device it is very slow, eventually the clutch held
after cycling the unit with the thermostat switch.
Here is my question. It was a 75-80 degree day, and the car
was in the garage, i.e. comfortable outside. Now the
compressor wants to run continuously and will only shut off
when I either turn the thermostat knob almost all the way
counter clockwise to its warmest position or of course by
turning off the fan switch. Before the thermostat was quite
sensitive and small movements in either direction would kick
the compressor on or off.
Is this a symptom of low or high charge, or is it a
thermostat problem?–
mollyoliver
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Looks like you got the right idea, you overfilled it.
running the car at a fast idle (fast) and AC on full (turned all the way up, coldest), and car doors open so the car cannot cool, the low side should show about 24-26 PSI.
Make sure the car has run long enough to let the pressure stabilize.
easy as pie.
Piece of cake.
2 cans of 134 should be more than enough.
LLoyd----- Original Message -----
In reply to a message from LLoyd (a rithmetician) sent Fri 29 Apr 2016:
OK, over the weekend I bought one of those EZ Fill trigger
devices with a low pressure gauge attached and several
bottles of R134. I did not get any with sealants, etc. as I
read they can gum up the works.
There was still enough charge in the system to cycle the
compressor so I started adding freon. After three 8 oz
bottles the gauge still only read about 15# when full should
have been 25-30#. Ran errands for several hours, then came
back to look at the problem some more. Cranked it up and
this time the low side read about 35#, the compressor cycled
off as it should when I turned the thermostat knob, but when
I attempted to get it to kick back in by again using the
thermostat knob the clutch began slipping.
I read up some more about compressor problems and the most
likey fault after ruling out others was overcharge. So I
slowly bled off pressure from the low side, and with the EZ
trigger device it is very slow, eventually the clutch held
after cycling the unit with the thermostat switch.
Here is my question. It was a 75-80 degree day, and the car
was in the garage, i.e. comfortable outside. Now the
compressor wants to run continuously and will only shut off
when I either turn the thermostat knob almost all the way
counter clockwise to its warmest position or of course by
turning off the fan switch. Before the thermostat was quite
sensitive and small movements in either direction would kick
the compressor on or off.
Is this a symptom of low or high charge, or is it a
thermostat problem?
In reply to a message from LLoyd (a rithmetician) sent Mon 2 May 2016:
Lloyd, are you saying that the cycling issue is due to
overfill and that I still need to bleed it off more?–
mollyoliver
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
…not sure…
you must check the pressure, but if the compressor will not turn over, then it is overfilled. (Don’t ask how I painfully learned that…)
LLoyd----- Original Message -----
In reply to a message from LLoyd (a rithmetician) sent Mon 2 May 2016:
Lloyd, are you saying that the cycling issue is due to
overfill and that I still need to bleed it off more?
In reply to a message from LLoyd (a rithmetician) sent Mon 2 May 2016:
Lloyd, I think I have it pretty close. Let several good
puffs out of low port. It is a 55 degree day so pressures
are lower and stabilize at about 10-15#. Compressor
cycles every 3 mins or so at middle thermostat setting.
Low side pressure rises to about 45# with compressor off
before kicking in. I’m probably a little low on the
charge but playing it safe because it’ll get hot soon here
in TX and I don’t want to over pressurize. I’ll know what
to do now if I need more juice later. Just hoping that
front seal will hold and from now on will spin it at least
once a month.
Thanks for your help–
mollyoliver
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–