I am trying to install some new weatherstripping and have been
using 3M Super Adhesive with little success. It is not holding to
the rubber but is holding to the paint very well. Has anyone had
success with another brand?–
68 E Type OTS, 87 TVR 280i, 71 Stag, 74 Alfa GTV
Denton, TX, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from TxCoyote sent Mon 20 Aug 2007:
I’ve never had a problem with the 3M black weatherstip
adhesive. The super adhesive may be a product for use with
trim rather than rubber. Be sure to use alcohol to remove
the release agent from the weatherstip - that may be your
problem.–
The original message included these comments:
using 3M Super Adhesive with little success. It is not holding to
–
Gary Herzberg 66 Series 1 OTS, 98 xk8
Bozeman, Montana, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from TxCoyote sent Mon 20 Aug 2007:
No help I know but I used 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive with the same
result. Doesn’t matter how much I sanded or cleaned the rubber it
doesn’t adhere to it. Unfortunatlety it will remain with the car
until its next respray.
Dave–
The original message included these comments:
using 3M Super Adhesive with little success. It is not holding to
the rubber but is holding to the paint very well. Has anyone had
–
'63 OTS 879419 Cornwall England
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Hi Ben,
I used the 3M Super adhesive-black and have had mixed results as
well. What has helped was to sand the surfaces of the rubber with 100
grit sandpaper. In the one area on the ‘B’ pillar passenger side at
the top where I couldn’t get it to stick (when the door would close
it would roll the molding out) no matter what, I finally got it to
stick when I redid it the last time, the area in question was covered
with a small amount of Gorilla Glue and clamped. I dare it to come
loose now!
Cheers,
LynnOn Aug 20, 2007, at 2:50 PM, TxCoyote wrote:
I am trying to install some new weatherstripping and have been
using 3M Super Adhesive with little success. It is not holding to
the rubber but is holding to the paint very well. Has anyone had
success with another brand?
68 E Type OTS, 87 TVR 280i, 71 Stag, 74 Alfa GTV
Denton, TX, United States
Lynn G
73 2+2 (Pearle)
68 OTS (Emmy)
67 Spitfire (?)
66 Spitfire (Sweet Pea)
Boise, ID USA
It’s good adhesive, but a bit tricky to apply.
Apply it to both surfaces. Then you have to let it dry to the tacky stage, which is dependent on your location, time of year. temperature, humidity, cycle of the moon and color of underwear you have on.
Then the 2 pieces will stick together and hold where you put them.
The hard part is getting it off your finger tips
LLoyd–
My driveway is long enough that you can appreciate the conflict between the desire for privacy and the terror of being completely lost .
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: “TxCoyote” coyote4544@verizon.net
I am trying to install some new weatherstripping and have been
using 3M Super Adhesive with little success. It is not holding to
the rubber but is holding to the paint very well. Has anyone had
success with another brand?
68 E Type OTS, 87 TVR 280i, 71 Stag, 74 Alfa GTV
Denton, TX, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from TxCoyote sent Mon 20 Aug 2007:
Get some Weldwood contact cement. Use it instead of the
weatherstrip adhesive. Dries almost clear but don’t get
sloppy. It will ruin paint if allowed to dribble.–
The original message included these comments:
the rubber but is holding to the paint very well. Has anyone had
success with another brand?
–
Jim Ashworth 1970 S2 OTS
Canterbury, NH, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from TxCoyote sent Mon 20 Aug 2007:
The 3M is the best stuff out there. If it’s not sticking to the
rubber, then it can only be because you haven’t properly cleaned
off the mold release agent from the rubber. Get a can of 3M
Adhesive Remover, and scrub the rubber with it, to get the mold
release off. Once you do that, the Super Adhesive will hold
extremely well. In fact, you’ll have to destroy the rubber to
remove it from the car once the adhesive is fully dry.–
The original message included these comments:
I am trying to install some new weatherstripping and have been
using 3M Super Adhesive with little success. It is not holding to
the rubber but is holding to the paint very well. Has anyone had
success with another brand?
68 E Type OTS, 87 TVR 280i, 71 Stag, 74 Alfa GTV
–
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
It’s also a good idea to scuff the rubber with some sandpaper, the paint
too if you really want it to stick well.
Eric
The 3M is the best stuff out there. If it’s not sticking to the
rubber, then it can only be because you haven’t properly cleaned
off the mold release agent from the rubber. Get a can of 3M
Adhesive Remover, and scrub the rubber with it, to get the mold
release off. Once you do that, the Super Adhesive will hold
extremely well. In fact, you’ll have to destroy the rubber to
remove it from the car once the adhesive is fully dry.
Everybody says this.
It must be true.
Five hundred milion Chineese can’t be wrong.
(“see?” He says, waving his hands)
I just make sure things are clean, and haven’t had a problem.
LLoyd–
My driveway is long enough that you can appreciate the conflict between the desire for privacy and the terror of being completely lost .
In reply to a message from TxCoyote sent Mon 20 Aug 2007:
I ran into the same problem except that the Super
weatherstrip adhesive would work well with some pieces and
not with others. The ‘‘regular’’ weatherstrip adhesive seemed
to work on the parts that the Suped didn’t and visa versa.
I believe that the suppliers of these weatherstrips don’t
pay much attention to the raw material they are using to
mold from. It seems like some of the parts are made of a
silicon-based ‘‘rubber’’ and Super Weatherstrip Adhesive is
not meant for Silicon-based materials. Thus it won’t stick well.
I went through a variety of stripping from a variety of
suppliers, using the regular or Super adhesive where each
seemed to work best, before I was satisfied. I finally
concluded that I should have bought a kit from a restorer
(such as CJ) that has used the kits they sell in their own
restorations. They have probably culled out the crappy seal
suppliers and thus the kit is probably of better quality.
Besides, I would have someone to discuss it with when I was
having problems.
My seals all came from CJ and in general worked fine. Ijust had my top installed and I noticed the cantrail seals literally falling off the car. The installer had NOT cleaned the rubber first. I use 3M adhesive removed to throughly clean all the mold release off my seals and have good luck since doing that.
Mike Moore
— rcliggitt@cox.net wrote:From: “Richard L.” rcliggitt@cox.net
To: e-type@jag-lovers.org
Subject: Re: [E-Type] Weatherstrip adhesive
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2007 05:36:42 +0200
In reply to a message from TxCoyote sent Mon 20 Aug 2007:
I ran into the same problem except that the Super
weatherstrip adhesive would work well with some pieces and
not with others. The ‘‘regular’’ weatherstrip adhesive seemed
to work on the parts that the Suped didn’t and visa versa.
I believe that the suppliers of these weatherstrips don’t
pay much attention to the raw material they are using to
mold from. It seems like some of the parts are made of a
silicon-based ‘‘rubber’’ and Super Weatherstrip Adhesive is
not meant for Silicon-based materials. Thus it won’t stick well.
I went through a variety of stripping from a variety of
suppliers, using the regular or Super adhesive where each
seemed to work best, before I was satisfied. I finally
concluded that I should have bought a kit from a restorer
(such as CJ) that has used the kits they sell in their own
restorations. They have probably culled out the crappy seal
suppliers and thus the kit is probably of better quality.
Besides, I would have someone to discuss it with when I was
having problems.
For some seal compounds it won’t matter how much you clean it. If it’s too
shiny/hard the glue won’t adhere well. Scuff it with some sandpaper it will
stick very nicely.
Eric
In reply to a message from Eric MaLossi sent Tue 21 Aug 2007:
This topic has arisen before and the question of how to glue
various rubber parts to the car is problematic. Even if you have
rubber parts from a reputable supplier , the parts will not all
behave the same re the glue because all the parts are NOT made from
the same rubber compound, because the service requirements of parts
are not the same.Rubber parts such as weather stipping or body
seals are designed to have a small amount of anti degradation
chemicals on the surface to protect them from rotting out
quickly.The surface film is designed to be put in place during the
curing cycle of their manufacture , and this film is not always
apparent to the eye. However, in all cases the rubber surface is
not compatible with glues until th surface is cleaned, preferably
ONLY in the place wher the glue will go! I think that it is wise to
do a check first before proceeding with the whole project. Find
which surface cleaner works best for you…i would try Varsol
(mineral spirits ),ethanol, methanol, acetone, laquer thinner. Pick
one,…i have listed them in order of increasing aggressiveness,
clean a small area, let it dry out well( at least 15 minutes,
preferably more ) and test your glue.The cleaned surface may also
benefit from some surface roughing with sand paper. When you get it
to work remember your technique and apply to the project. This may
seem protracted but you rush this stage to your peril!I believe
that it is most unlikely that any of our body seal parts are made
from Silicone Rubber, because that stuff is very expensive, and its
use is confined to VERY aggressive environmments. Hope this helps,–
The original message included these comments:
For some seal compounds it won’t matter how much you clean it. If it’s too
shiny/hard the glue won’t adhere well. Scuff it with some sandpaper it will
stick very nicely.
Eric
–
John M Holmes 1973 E Type SIII Supra 5-Speed, 1970 SII OTS
Sarnia, Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from John M Holmes sent Tue 21 Aug 2007:
I believe that some seals are made from EPDM and others from
Neoprene. They look similar but have different properties.
Unlike Neoprene, EPDM will not tolerate hydrocarbons so
don’t clean it with laquer thinner because it will swell.
There are also many different types of 3M weatherstrip
adhesives -super, regular, black, yellow, plus lots of
different part numbers. No one has mentioned a number.
Anyway, I had similar experiences with them all until I
found Norton Emblem and Weatherstrip adhesive which is a
clear glue and doesn’t tend to be messy, like the 3M stuff,
since it doesn’t string and dries clear. It also securely
stuck everything I needed it to so, I have all the tubes of
3M left over, hardly used.
BTW, Norton supply a lot of good stuff. Their ‘No-fil’
sandpaper is far superior to anything 3M sell.–
Clive, '62 Coupe 860320
Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Clive Wilkinson sent Tue 21 Aug 2007:
Clive, Glad you mentioned Norton as a supplier of quality car care
products.The name has cropped up at our local car
club.Unfortunately local retailers seem difficult to find in our
nick of SW Ontario!.Re solvents to clean rubber surfaces.If the
surface is wiped my a moist cloth I don’t see any problem.
Immersion would undoubtedly cause swelling as you say in some
cases.A short drying period was suggested for this reason. regards–
The original message included these comments:
I believe that some seals are made from EPDM and others from
Neoprene. They look similar but have different properties.
Unlike Neoprene, EPDM will not tolerate hydrocarbons so
don’t clean it with laquer thinner because it will swell.
Anyway, I had similar experiences with them all until I
found Norton Emblem and Weatherstrip adhesive which is a
clear glue and doesn’t tend to be messy, like the 3M stuff,
since it doesn’t string and dries clear. It also securely
Clive, '62 Coupe 860320
Ontario, Canada
–
John M Holmes 1973 E Type SIII Supra 5-Speed, 1970 SII OTS
Sarnia, Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from John M Holmes sent Wed 22 Aug 2007:
John, right. Try their ‘‘No-fil’’ paper when you’re blocking
out your OTS body.
Re EPDM and hydrocarbons, I agree that a quick wipe probably
won’t do much. But many seals are made from EPDM. My wife
had a new Honda ‘‘rustproofed’’ by Krown and all the door
seals etc. swelled and hung off. They did replace them,
however. I guess Krown is based on mineral oil -or was.
(Rust Check, LPS3 and ACF-50 seem to be good for any type of
‘‘rubber’’)
BTW, this will be the first year I won’t have my car at
Bronte due to engine work in progress. I guess I’ll still
come and look though.–
Clive, '62 Coupe 860320
Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Clive Wilkinson sent Wed 22 Aug 2007:
Clive, I have taken note of the Norton ‘’ No-Fil’’ paper, and I will
endeavour to locate a supply locally. I hope to be at Bronte
Provincial Park, for the annual British car day, put on by the
local Triumph Car club, as it is one of the best british car meets
i have seen. For those of you within driving access there are
usually 1200 cars there, including lots of E’s, and a few from this
forum. However, first I have to finish the total brake refurbish
job on the SIII that is in hand, but going slowly because of other
summer activities.All calipers have been rebuilt with new SS Pistons
( best deal is from John Farrell!), and the IRS needs to be
refitted.Not looking forward to that as it could be tricky I
suspect.I await the new hangers, which will not be of the
metallastic type so I wonder!!?Regards–
The original message included these comments:
John, right. Try their ‘‘No-fil’’ paper when you’re blocking
out your OTS body.
BTW, this will be the first year I won’t have my car at
Bronte due to engine work in progress. I guess I’ll still
come and look though.
Clive, '62 Coupe 860320
Ontario, Canada
–
John M Holmes 1973 E Type SIII Supra 5-Speed, 1970 SII OTS
Sarnia, Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–