[E-Type] Wiring Diagram for S2 RHD E Type

I am doing a left to right hand drive conversion on my
1970 S 2 XKE and looking for a PDF of the RHD wiring
diagram.

Any help appreciated
Thanks
Garry–
1970 XKE Roadster ex USA now RHD, 1969 Mercedes 280SL Pagod
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In reply to a message from GarryM sent Fri 28 Oct 2011:

I guess people here will say the same thing they said to you on the
E-type forum Garry…

I’d merely add - get a manual.

I suggest the Bentley, which comes with with the 4.2 and S2
supplements. It shows the wiring diagram you need and a thousand
other things you will need. Part of the hobby is doing your
research, starting with a manual, and then digging around for help
with things that are too cryptic or not covered. There’s plenty of
that, but for basic stuff you need to sort yourself out before
getting too deep into these cars.

Jaguar Heritage will sell you a manual in pdf form if you need that.

http://www.jaguarheritage.org/startpage.aspx

Pete–
1E75339 66 D, 1E33100 66 FHC, 1E78968 68 2+2, 1R7977 69 OTS
Cambridge, United Kingdom
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I am doing a left to right hand drive conversion on my
1970 S 2 XKE and looking for a PDF of the RHD wiring
diagram.

Perhaps I missing something but isn’t the only difference that items
like “left side headlight” etc would simply become “right hand
headlight”…??

If so, I can provide you with a coloured wiring diagram written for LH
drive cars.On Fri, Oct 28, 2011 at 3:08 AM, GarryM bytemarkspty@bigpond.com wrote:


Les…'68 S1.5 2+2


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In reply to a message from Les Halls sent Fri 28 Oct 2011:

On Series 1 there were LHD options not used in RHD cars until
later - such as hazards. However, it is still clear from the same
diagram which drive side cars used what, so yes the only
significant differences between LHD/RHD are harnes structure ones,
not the schematic itself.

Turns out Garry drove his new E-type cross-country to LA and is
having it converted ready for onward shipment. Sounds like a great
way to get to know an E-type and compare it to his more usual SL
Benz two doors. He is looknig to give info to his mechanic in the
US doing the conversion prior to shipping it to him in Oz.

Pete–
1E75339 66 D, 1E33100 66 FHC, 1E78968 68 2+2, 1R7977 69 OTS
Cambridge, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from PeterCrespin sent Fri 28 Oct 2011:

Actually, Peter, I do not think there are any harness structure
differences . The dash etc looms sold are identical for both LHD
and RHD cars , with the leads for eg tacho and speedo lights,
indicator stalk etc, flashers being long enough to reach the
binnacle positioned on either side–
The original message included these comments:

diagram which drive side cars used what, so yes the only
significant differences between LHD/RHD are harnes structure ones,


christopher storey
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In reply to a message from PeterCrespin sent Fri 28 Oct 2011:

Peter the Hazard lamps were just plug and play or un-plug if you
wish. They were on a self contained sub harness…–
The original message included these comments:

later - such as hazards. However, it is still clear from the same


JCRC SE member JCNA Publications and Authenticity Desk
Columbia SC, United States
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Is the above statement true? I am struggling to establish what i can keep and use for my conversion to RHD (instrument loom). Is it long enough to reach the RH instruments? A photo of the LD and RH instrument loom laid out on the bench would be really useful
I just cant find any good legacy info on the electrical loom changes.

Hi Philip…call one of the loom suppliers/manufacturers they should be able to help…Steve

1 Like

Barratts quote a different number for lhd/rhd dash harnesses
Tony

I appreciate they are actually different Tony. What I need to know is how different? Is it relatively simple to adapt and extend?

Hi Philip
There are two issues you need to consider, the first is the age and condition of the existing harness and the various connectors. Has the harness had any alterations or add ons that you can see, also after 50 years some of these may now be getting a little fragile, any signs of melted cable anywhere, if so what is happening underneath. Only you can see the condition and need to make a judgement on that aspect.

Secondly, some of the wires are going to be a little stretched if you decide to use the existing harness, but yes you can always extend the cables, but make sure you use the correct wire sizes. I have seen numerous adaptations over the years where people have used any old wire and the same gauge wire for everything to extend their system. This could and no doubt has led to fires and other issues. Some use the same colour wire for every extension which later leads to confusion as to which wires are going where, so again you need to try and find cables of comparable colour codes or as near as possible. As you extend make up your own diagram as you go so you know later which cable is which.

A simple way of telling whether the cables will stretch is to use a piece of string, use this to measure where the cable currently exits the main part of the harness and stretch it across to where your new instrument/switch will be, then check that length against the existing wire to see if will be long enough to reach the new location.

If done carefully and using the correct wire gauges then you can certainly extend the system. I wonder whether it is worth the trouble given that a new dash harness is not too expensive set against the cost in time and money of buying the cable and connectors to extend. But then I am spending your money, so the decision has to be yours. The parts if you decide to extend will include,

  1. A pair of good wire strippers and crimpers
  2. A soldering iron (all joints need to be soldered , no scotch locks or terminal blocks)
  3. Shrink fit insulation to go over the new joints
  4. Cable of various sixes and colour codes
  5. A selection terminal connectors, both bullets, bullet rubber insulators, lucar spade connectors (there are two sizes from memory, one is approx. 1/4" and a smaller one approx. 3/16" both female and a small number of males)
  6. Harness tape which is different to insulation tape in that it sticks to itself without the adhesive that backs normal insulation tape. Insulation tape starts to unwrap over time. There is some sleeving on the market which you can use instead of harness tape which we use on our race cars, which expands as you run the wires through it, so it can take a number of cables and keep them all tidy, brilliant stuff, look here,
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Braided-Sleeving-Braid-Cable-Wiring-Harness-Loom-Protection-Black/321559416107?hash=item4ade6f4d2b:m:mJBijooYdWCK2bALRvQ-EBw

I hope this gives you a better idea of what is involved and helps decide which route is best for you
Tony