how do you get to the window switches?
With your fingers???
Youâve got to pull the armrest & center console garbage collector, aka storage compartment out. The arm rest comes off with a couple of screws, then the plastic storage compartment next. There are a series of screws along the edge possibly in the middle. the screws are black and hard to see cause the blend in so well. Then the switches are accessible from the back. that whole panel comes out with a couple of screws at the top under the plastic storage compartment. I donât 100% recall. Itâs been about years since Iâve had that apart. BUT it looks like I will be doing it it gain soon, since the drivers side windows doesnât go down, and the passenger side doesnât go up. Sheesh! Iâm pretty sure the windows switch cluster isnât connected to the main console (top).
fun fact
All of the switches are wired in series. I think it starts from the âKids, stop rolling the windows up and downâ switch, then to the sun roof, from there I canât remember. it will become apparent when you get that panel out. .
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Beware of the difference in wiring between S3 and earlier models, Mark - the latter are⌠indeed in series. The S3 switches are in parallel, allowing simultaneous operation of two or more windowsâŚ
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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Why are we guessing about MAKE MODEL YEAR?
Please tell us what car ans what the issue is??(I hate mystery cars)
Thank you , a big help, the vehicle is a 1982 XJ6 series 3.Just having trouble removing the trash bin, afraid of braking something. have removed the arm rest and removed all the small screws that can see. have also removed the screws to the surround of the shifter. It appears that something is attached to the catch for the arm rest
Did you remove the clip thingy at the front that keeps the armrest lid closed? You have to pry it out.
Also the plastic tends to stick on the vinyl.
Be gentle, itâs old plastic and easy to break.
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I busted the catch that secures the âcubbyâ lid. I do not miss it. Tis a generic thing used in appliance lidsâŚ
Back in the archives is write up I did on window switch service.
Short version:
Tools.
Small Pozi or Phillips screw driver
two small pans.
Small bade old tech driver
The finnish plate around the shifter lifts up. Watch the front edge , it may hang on the temp trim wheel. A thing few use.
The switches are retained in the trim plate. Pop them out, not hard. Remove each connector from the switch and tuck it away in the order removed. Lf front window forward in the cavity and left. RR back in h cavity and right. Care, the connector fits two ways. wrong and the window responds wrong. Up command it goes down. Keep the twist o avoid that,.
The small screws and the tools go in one pan and remain in the car.
To the bench with the other pan and switches.
Work over the pan. Teen parts easily stray!!!
Press the side of the rocker pivot and the case will spread ever so slightly/ Remove the rocker. Two teeny posts can break easily. If intact, continue.
At the bottom of the case, you will see two teeny brass contact strip The corrosion is the culprit. Clean and lightly lube/ A teeny dab of Dielectric.
Assemble in almost reverse order. With connectors restored check for operation.
Caveat. Master switch in the center should be closed⌠If all motion is present, as the surgeons say, âyou may closeâ!!!
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Just make sure you have the appropriate wiring diagram, James - in case something goes wrong with the electricsâŚ
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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Take loads of pics of the wiring on every switch!!!
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And ensure that malfunctions are not due to switch misconnetions - repeating connection errors leads nowhere, AnjumâŚ
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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Pictures and notes are always a good idea when taking things apart.
However, my personal experience on Series IIIs is that, over the decades, the wiring takes a âsetâ and, unless deliberately disturbed, will naturally fall back into position alongside the corresponding switch.
A more likely problem is (mis)alignment of the connector socket to the pins on the switch. If rushed, or ham-handed, it is possible to push the connector body onto the switch in such a way that not all pins are engaged.
A Series I or II is a more challenging situation as there is no multi-pin or âgangâ connector. Each wire to the switch is attached individuallyâŚmaking pictures or note taking mandatory.
Unless you have a photographic memory âŚwhich I always claim to have but, alas, am always proven wrong
Cheers
DD
Different colours of lacquer pens etc. help there. Prying out the master switch before lifting up the ski slope is advised. The clip must go and the little screw above the master switch, unless of course the 82 is different to an 84 year.
About once, I erred in mating the connector to the switch. Upside down!! Pressed forward and the window responded. Up, not down!!! Tempted to leave it that way. But, only for an instant!!! Am I crazy!!!
The connectors are easily tucked . LF, Rf. LR and RR. Correspond with window location.
Were I to change anything, and I a surely not, I would swap in Allen head screws in lieu of the teeeny PozisâŚ
OTH. I installed another solar powered motion sensed lamp on my porch. Angulated portions secured by the smallest Allen screws I ever saw.
Toughest part of the project. Slick. no need to burn the porch light all night. Two solars up front provide light as neededâŚ