Hope to be ready to lower front suspension in a day or two. Will be using a one ton floor jack.
Not being able to bend over for too long, having concerns if there are more than one engine mounts to the main frame on each side. I should know this but have forgotten. Engine is currently supported at front from above and before removing the two nuts of these forward mounts want to ask.
Getting old and forgetting such things is the pits.
Thanks in advance for your assistance.
I’ll be pulling my engine and transmission soon, it looks like there are only the two engine mounts at the crossmember and the rear transmission mount.
Make sure to allow room for the tail of the transmission to swing down as the engine comes forward and up.
I am currently building an engine stand that will support the engine from both ends, eliminating the binding on just one support engine stand from that cantilevered engine hanging way out there.
Thank for you help Jerry. Not pulling the engine just removing the front suspension in order to replace bushings.
Way back in 2007 when engine was pulled (B bank head gasket blew) had made a wooden block to attach to the rear of transmission to use as a slide block. Ran across it to day while looking for something else. If memory is correct I had a small floor jack under it as the engine was pulled forward.
Good luck to you on your engine rebuild. I have over 70,000 mile on my rebuild. Engine still runs strong.
Don, I’m not rebuilding the engine, it is fine (125,000 on it), but it really needs a good cleaning after accumulating 40 years of crud.
I tried removing quite a few things, but even after getting to 90% of the crud in the Valley of Death, it still looks quite bad. So I decided to pull the engine and try to reduce its ‘road oiling’ capacity. Pulling the engine will allow me to clean the transmission (which also works great) and get to all those copper banjo oil seals, and look for signs of leakage at the rear main.
An empty engine compartment will also allow me to clean that up and repaint things as necessary. I also have new wiring harness sheath material to re-wrap the wiring harnesses.
When that is done and the engine and transmission are back in, it’ll be time to sand and repaint it (exterior only, original Sebring Red color).
Something to consider: Why not use a flat dolly with blocks on it to support the back of the transmission? Those things roll a lot easier than floor jacks do.HF has open center ones for $13, and closed center ones for $28. The closed center ones would make it easier to position support blocks on it.
There is one stud with a 9/16” nut on each mount per side, accessible from the top once you remove the air filters. Only one mount on each side of engine.
You have to use a box wrench to remove the nut, limited swing, so a 12 point is best.
Thanks for your reply Robert. Like picture of your friend Poppy.
She’s my bud; just finished a two mile walk and a drive in the XJ-S.
Engine mount nuts are tedious…only open end wrench will fit, and not much room to turn. Once i get nut loosened, i use my stubby open end wrench, much more turning room.
Passenger side not too bad, driver side is a pain.
Hard part is getting those nuts back on. Oh, to have little fingers.
Don’t forget ground strap, near driver side engine mount. I did. It will snap off, not end of the world, easy to replace.
Years ago I added a ground strap from the top of the engine to the diagonal stiffener mount at the bulkhead flange with the chassis number on it. Just to make sure there was a good ground to the engine. I used a heavy-duty battery ground cable, I think the flange will break before that cable will. 
I did the same. Can’t have too many grounds!